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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am setting up my dust collection and want to do it right the first time.

I can get my 4 inch hose to connect to my tools and my DC, nice tight seal around the outside, clamped on, those connections are great.

Less great: the PVC pipe or fittings. I can't get it to go over the pvc (blue thin sewer grade)

So I put it inside a coupling with construction adhesive. It seems to work. I stuck a piece of pipe out the end, turned on the machine and felt around the "caulked" joint to see if I felt any air escaping. I didn't.

I hesitate only because the tube is on the inside of piping, and I have it in my head, not sure why, that a flex tube should always seal tightly over the ends of any pipes, not go inside.

I have three options in my mind....

1. Continue with this method, being really diligent with enough sealant and taping the outside.
2. use these more expensive joint fittings
3. try again to get the hose around the pvc by stretching the wires somehow.

Thoughts?
 

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easier cheaper method found in the HVAC section of your BB or make your own...

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...
 

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One of the neat things you can do with PVC is heat it and then you can expand it or shrink it.

Easiest way would be to make a cutout in a piece of wood the size you need (ID of the flex hose), heat the PVC and draw it through. This might take a couple of steps with the hole(s) you make depending on how much you need to shrink the PVC. For example, make a 4 1/2" hole as the first step, then a 4 1/4", then a 4"...

Round the inside edge of the hole to make the PVC fit better as you shrink it...

Then you can slip the hose over the newly make PVC end...
 

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It's a good idea when you use the metal pipe (which I also used) to seal all the joints with metal foil tape. It's usually sold in the same section where the ducting is.
 

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metal connector...
3.99$...
 

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...even mo betta...
 

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Stick with one brand of connectors or you'll spend a ton and none will fit together. I went with Rockler for most parts. To seal connections, use the aluminum type duct tape, not "DUCK" tape.

Also, you can purchase a crimper for further adjust the metal connector Stick posted.
 

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A 4” pipe is a 4” pipe only in the plumbing world. In the DC world it depends on who the manufacturer is.
 

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It's a good idea when you use the metal pipe (which I also used) to seal all the joints with metal foil tape. It's usually sold in the same section where the ducting is.
I did this on a few more difficult connections and although it does work I really prefer my connections a bit tighter. Heating both the PVC pipe to make smaller/larger with the use of a cone shaped device helps but you can also heat the hose as well to stretch it as needed.

The wire reinforcement makes it a bit more difficult but it is doable. Of course if you go with the very expensive metal ducting (not HVAC Piping) I'm told it fits much nicer but at a premium price. I went with heating both pipe and hose.

Also keep in mind that the HVAC fittings found in places like Home Depot/Lowes will need to be sealed better and using metal tape as Chuck suggested is the easiest way. I have to admit that installing my CV1800 with 6" piping by myself was a real nightmare at times. Using the sealant as seen in the pictures does cause a good deal of turbulence. Not sure how much or if it makes any real difference but you want your entire system as smooth as possible.

Use Wye's and long radius turns to make your turns and never "Tees". Believe it or not there are entire books on designing and installing these DC systems. Had I had the funds I would have used the metal ducting like this. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Nordfab-6-Industrial-Dust-Collection-Fittings-Starter-Kit/H5297?gclid=CjwKCAiAis3vBRBdEiwAHXB29O41tMgLgi7OJOD5JW2IA4WZ8J-vUL5ODMfhIHlLYQniHB7zpDLweBoCeccQAvD_BwE
 

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After you struggle for a while trying to get the wire reinforced vinyl hose ends on to your fittings go and find several metal shoe horns and use them to facilitate getting the hoses on to the fittings...
use a faint fuzz of soap (dish soap) to help things along....
 
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You can remove the wire from the flex hose for the last 6" or so( without poking holes in it with wire cutters) then it slips easily onto the pvc and is held with hose clamps. I then siliconed/calked all connections on my sewer pipe dust system.
 

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You can remove the wire from the flex hose for the last 6" or so( without poking holes in it with wire cutters) then it slips easily onto the pvc and is held with hose clamps. I then siliconed/calked all connections on my sewer pipe dust system.
I did this as well although it wasn't easy, cutting the wire or "slipping" on the hose. Mine was still very tight. I didn't mention this as I have seen some hose where the wire wasn't able to be removed without damaging the hose itself. I still need heat to get the hose on but every hose seems to be somewhat different as does the pipe.
 

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I had problems getting the hose to stay on the plastic fittings so I put a wrap of duct tape on them first and that helped them stay on.
 

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Crimper!

...snip...
Also, you can purchase a crimper for further adjust the metal connector Stick posted.
I've used the crimper on metal duct when making a heat treat oven for bamboo strips when making bamboo fly rods. Works great.

I hadn't thought of using metal pipe/connectors on the dust collection system. I've taken the route of turning diameters needed in PVC connectors, on my lathe. Only done so for the miter saw so far, but need to for the router table to join the Incra Wonder Fence port with the router base port.

Rick
 
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