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I have some boards, 45mm thick Lime and Tulipwood that I'd like to edge joint on the router table. I Googled briefly but thought quicker and best to ask here, the experts, straight from the horses mouth:)

I say 45mm thick, what is the practical limit in thickness one can edge joint on the router table?
Diameter of bit, spiral, etc for best finish? I need to offset the tables outfeed fence, more info on this technique please?
Thank you.
 

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you stop using the table when the boards become unwieldy or dangerous..

how long are the boards..
how wide..
what kind of joint do you want.....
butt...
splined..
finger...
glue...
lock miter...
ship lap..
biscuit...
doweled...

me ..
I spline my edges...
most excellent results for decades...

FWIW.. we understand 45mm as 7/4 S2S over here....

.
 

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You might be better off clamping a straightedge to the boards and following that if they are very long. Any straight but will work. I would use at least a 3/4”- 19 or 20 mm.
 

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Before you invest time and money into the router bit try using a good saw blade and see what the fit looks like. I rarely use my jointer any more, I find that the table saw works perfectly fine for edge gluing. For narrower boards I simply put them on edge and run them through the planner.
 

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Before you invest time and money into the router bit try using a good saw blade and see what the fit looks like. I rarely use my jointer any more, I find that the table saw works perfectly fine for edge gluing. For narrower boards I simply put them on edge and run them through the planner.
a straight edge and a panel bit to true the one edge abd the a glue line in the TS to parallel the second edge..
 
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Paul
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I did a lot of this to clean the edge of plexi. If you take off very little, an ordinary straight bit works fine, not sure if a spiral may be better.

Offset your fence. Put a straight edge on the offset side. Line the fence up to the bit.

I guess the size limit would be the bit's cutting length as long as you're taking off very little.

The offset in the drawing is very exaggerated. Maybe use playing card spacers if you have adjustable faces on your fence. The adjustment of the fence is critical or you'll get snipe at the end of the cut. Test on a scrap first.
 

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Theo
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You might be better off clamping a straightedge to the boards and following that if they are very long. Any straight but will work. I would use at least a 3/4”- 19 or 20 mm.
A lof of my projects have a side I want straight, so tack a straightedge down, use a flush trim bit, and viola, just want I wanted. And then almost always need a straight side angling off the first, so nail the straightedge down again. Nothing very long, but works very well for me. Oh yes, that is only when making my masters, once they are done tack that down and rout around it - clones a perfect copy every time.
 
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