Barry,
Even a large bit will have trouble cutting through knots. Some of those knots are just like rocks setting there. I would suggest not trying to just plow through them. Take shallow cuts and slow your feed rate when approaching a knot. As a matter of fact, if at all possible, I would try to avoid hitting any knots.

 

What about using a 1/8" slot cutter to do this instead? Obviously it will depend on whether or not these slots are near the edge of the material.

 

Hi Barry,

I suggest getting a different piece of lumber. Knots are a PITA to work with or around. Another worry with them is, blow out.

 

You guys seem determined to solve all the problems before I come on line!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

George, Paulo, Ken
You all ( Yall if I use a southern accent ) confirm my suspections. I did not need good grade wood for this project and didn't think about routing/knots.

Harry Thanks for confirming. One thing I didn't mentioned, the depth of the 1/8" straight bit is only 1/4" deep. Would this make a difference?

Thanks all.

 

I also have several pieces of knotty pine that I was wondering how I could use. Think I'll keep them for hidden base pieces, or maybe fire wood!
George

 

Barry, the one thing everyone should agree on is you have no idea what will happen until you cut the wood. Some wood has internal stresses that can not be seen. While building a fence for a router table I made a 3/8" wide by 1/4" deep cut for an aluminum T track. The board was straight when I placed it on the table. After the cut it bowed to the point the track would not fit in. The bow was sideways, not vertical, as if I had cut an arc into the piece! I used a clamp on each end to pull it back into line and installed the T track. I left it clamped over night and it was fine the next day. Now this was straight clear Poplar that had aged in my garage for 3 months, from HD. When you introduce knots there is simply no way to predict what will happen. Some times they will cut just fine, other times you touch them and they go ballistic. The good news is you can fill in a cavity from an exploding knot quite easily. Run your bit at full speed, ease into the knot and hope for the best.

 

Thanks Mike. If the wood chips at the knot that won't matter. My concern was that small of a bit would break on coctact. Thanks for the input.

 

Hi Guys

I guess I break more 1/8" bits more than any other bit I have...you just look at them and they will break,,,it's always a long shot with knots,,,but I do like to use old wood with knots in the stock for some projects, it gives the wood something a little extra ..but I will say if you are making fine furniture/project I would pass on the wood with knots in it...you can always rip it down or finger joint it on the ends of the stock and just glue it up and just cut out all the knots..

Knots in the stock

Like the one below
Router Forums - View Single Post - For dog lovers

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Barry, if the 1/4" length of the bit is sufficient for the job in hand, then there is less risk of it breaking than one which is 3/4" long. Full speed ahead is the order of the day with an 1/8" bit.

 

lots of good advise...just remember to wear your safety glasses!!!! and if ya have a good shop apron put it on as well. when them knots blow, the more protection, the better...

b.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I did a test cut and it worked okay. I am making a screen door for work shop and I an routing a groove for the spline. I know I could easily staple the screen but I want some experience using the router.

 

Hi Barry

It's funny you should say you are making a screen door for your shop,,I did and my BOSS could not stop laughing for weeks,,, LOL she said OK so are you now going to make one for the big garage door too LOL they do like to dig in from time to time.. hahahaha

anyway I did it the same way you are going to do but I used the o-ring stuff they use for alum.screen doors the suff you can just use that little roll in tool...it did work great and keeps the screen in just right..

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