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Discussion Starter #1
I've had a kreg phenolic router plate in my table for just over a year now, and the other day while rounding over edges on thin stock the stock caught a couple times on a ridge between plate and table, which shouldnt have happened.
So I checked the plate, and it has a sag on one side.
not much, wouldnt be noticed on a long piece that spanned the whole plate. but most of my stuff is small parts.
So, i suspect this is like an oil thread on an auto site, but is the a stronger flatter plate ?
Without taking my life savings?
 

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Can you screw some aluminum or steel across the cup and flatten it out?
All plastics will cup, resting flat, unfastened, with a weight load.
Not Al. or steel.
Routers
 

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Bob I always remove my router and plate from my table when not in use because of what Pat said. That's one of the reasons that I don't attach my plate to my table, I just let it sit in the recess.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
quillman;
its not a big plate, and the router underneath is wide and bulky. Theres no room to bolt and angle or box section across it. The table itself is very solid and level.

chuck;
Thats not something I would expect to do, and as I said above, the router is so big that it barely comes out of the hole in the table top. The plate isnt bolted as the router holds it down securely. It has to be angled and jiggled just right to remove it.

I'm thinking of an alloy or steel plate to take the weight without me having to disassemble every time.
 

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I have Lee Valley's steel router table top which uses the same clamps to hold the router in place. I would imagine that they built the plate similar to the router table top which is about 3/16" thick. The router table also has the option for installing template bushings so I'm guessing they are using the same machining setup.

It's as expensive as my table top was but either one will outlive you and possibly the next 2 or 3 generations of your family as long as you keep it out of the weather and maybe wax it down occasionally with a non silicone wax. I don't know if you are familiar with the term bulletproof as we occasionally use it here but that insert is quite literally bulletproof.
 

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If the casting darn near occupies the whole plate, why does it not flatten the plastic?
Your casting is a mending plate of sorts and should flatten what ever it is fastened too.
Unless the casting is bending too? Or it too is not flat?
 

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bob i always remove my router and plate from my table when not in use because of what pat said. That's one of the reasons that i don't attach my plate to my table, i just let it sit in the recess.

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Were you able to tell if your workpiece caught on the edge of the table? Or the edge of the plate? However it happened you should be able to compensate for it either by shimming the plate or routing the hole a hair deeper. And some plates have leveling set screws in them to handle such issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
quillman;
the plate is phenolic resin. It is dipping slightly between the router bit and the short edge of the plate. The dip is actually in the resin. Again, i dont think anyone would notice if they were using wood over 18" long. but I was routing a piece about 6" square, so the whole work piece was on the plate. It caught as the piece traveled out to the side and went over the lip to the table proper. I've levelled the plate all the way around, a few times now, but this is sinking again, just enough to not meet the table over about a 2" section of the edge. The router is a big heavy makita, I think its just too much weight.
Chuck;
I am a shooter, totally understand bullet proof (G). I like the idea of steel, but my problem buying from canada is shipping and import duty. i can be sure that final cost to my door would be triple the shop retail price. I have a friend back in the UK who has some metalworking machinery. i think I shall ask him to make me a 3/8" ground surface plate.

Sfchuck; the plate itself has a dip in it, causing the small pieces I rout to rise and dip, and then catch momentarily on the edge. I cant see a way of fixing this plate, just need to work out what its going to cost me to replace it.
 

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Agree, phenolic laminate (and most of it is laminate) is not machined.
It emerges from the hot press un-flattened.
But you can & should flatten it, both sides.
How? Granite surface plate with #150 abrasive glued down on it.
Hand sand the whole surface as one, not a spot here and there.
And unstressed. So hold it so as not to flatten it out with your muscle.
Might even do it with the casting attached, as small as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm trying something at the moment that might work.
I have removed the plate, cleaned everything well, and fitted some brush excluder around the hole. you know the stuff you get on sliding screen doors and alimunium slats?
So this has made the whole plate proud of the table. Now I've screwed the plate down (it was only rested before) so all four corners are flush. This makes the sides of the plate slightly proud, but for what I'm doing at the moment, thats workable, whereas a dip wasnt.
i'm hoping that the spring in the brush will gently flatten till its all level again. Might not work, but its cost me nothing so far.
 

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Lee Valley built their steel table top with a bit of camber to it. High is okay as long as your work doesn't tip up and down. As you say, a dip is unacceptable.
 
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