Hello,
Great forum you have here. Lots of very useful information. Very kind of you all to offer so much information.
I have done some searching and found some information, but would like to address this idea directly, before I start doing all the trial and error, just to make sure I haven't missed anything critical.
I wish to make drum shells, styled "stave drums." Essentially it is a barrel using vertical grain wood staves with beveled edges. Depending on the number of staves used, depends on the bevel angle for the joints. Makes sense. I have a table saw, I have a router. Even though many manufacturers offer router bits at appropriate angles for these staves, they usually won't cut a bevel on a stave thicker than 7/8''. I would like to have thicker staves because it would allow for more error. This can be done with the table saw, but I feel I would have more control with a router. So it would seem I am looking for a way to create a "bevel fence" to repeatedly cut the same angle into a stave, with a table router and a straight bit. I have this bevel fence worked out it worked out in my head, except that I can't seem to figure out getting the proper angle on the guide. I see holes in my plans if I use a chamfer bit, because the length of the bevel would be 7/8''. Doesn't seem like I would a long enough cut. I'm worried about getting the angle just right with a table saw. Even .1 degree error, with 16 stave would have 32 cut edges, makeing a total degree of error at 3-4 degrees, which will make the shell unstable. Understanding in the end it may just take repeated trial and error to get it right, is there any suggestions you guys could offer?
I want to make several of these bevel fence jigs at multiple angles to avoid using a table saw as much as possible, and to be able to repeatedly make solid joints of variable stave width, without having to adjust the angle on a table saw for different number of stave drums. Sorry for being long wided, and I hope I am being clear. Thank you in advance for you time.
-Adam
Great forum you have here. Lots of very useful information. Very kind of you all to offer so much information.
I have done some searching and found some information, but would like to address this idea directly, before I start doing all the trial and error, just to make sure I haven't missed anything critical.
I wish to make drum shells, styled "stave drums." Essentially it is a barrel using vertical grain wood staves with beveled edges. Depending on the number of staves used, depends on the bevel angle for the joints. Makes sense. I have a table saw, I have a router. Even though many manufacturers offer router bits at appropriate angles for these staves, they usually won't cut a bevel on a stave thicker than 7/8''. I would like to have thicker staves because it would allow for more error. This can be done with the table saw, but I feel I would have more control with a router. So it would seem I am looking for a way to create a "bevel fence" to repeatedly cut the same angle into a stave, with a table router and a straight bit. I have this bevel fence worked out it worked out in my head, except that I can't seem to figure out getting the proper angle on the guide. I see holes in my plans if I use a chamfer bit, because the length of the bevel would be 7/8''. Doesn't seem like I would a long enough cut. I'm worried about getting the angle just right with a table saw. Even .1 degree error, with 16 stave would have 32 cut edges, makeing a total degree of error at 3-4 degrees, which will make the shell unstable. Understanding in the end it may just take repeated trial and error to get it right, is there any suggestions you guys could offer?
I want to make several of these bevel fence jigs at multiple angles to avoid using a table saw as much as possible, and to be able to repeatedly make solid joints of variable stave width, without having to adjust the angle on a table saw for different number of stave drums. Sorry for being long wided, and I hope I am being clear. Thank you in advance for you time.
-Adam
, your staves will be dead on, 7/8" thick, not a big deal with a joiner ..just lock the angle and push them over the blades..just clamp a board to the top to keep your fingers out of the way and to hold them in the right angle..
