About two years ago, I found one in a local pawn shop. The guy didn't even know what it was. I bought it for $15.00. This was the FIRST tool I had as a child, and it, along with a small Craftsman router began my journey into the world of hand crafting and shop tools. So when I saw this one, I bought it purely for nostalgia. Given the rather primitive nature of the device, it works VERY well!
I now have a CNC router table and I am (or at least WAS) working on a rotary attachment for it (along with a thousand other unfinished projects ). When it is done, the gantry motor will drive the rotary device, and the router will run along the length of the gantry tube, with the router raising and lowering the router as normal. I expect the same results,but with computer precision.
HI, and welcome. I searched the Web for one of these, including Youtube. No luck. I syspect you could make this, but I'm not sure my skill level is sufficient to get the precision needed. It is really just a router ski, with a method of holding a workpiece so you can rotate it, and a height adjustment of some sort. Probably requiresa plunge base. Wish I could help more, but I think these are pretty much hen's teeth. If you did turning, you could do most all of it, then use a router ski and a small cove bit to cut the vertical slots. But you'd want to measure and mark the location with great precision.
Hi @MOTOSPORT ,
I have shown the relevant bits for the cuts, on your photo. Agree with James on core box bit, but the plunge beading bit will make the other cut in one operation. It is sometimes difficult to align a second cut precisely with the first, especially after a bit change.
1. Probably not worth making the router lathe if you can find one. I have had mine over 40 yrs (Vermont American), they cannot be worth much by now.
2. The longitudinal grooves (flutes) are made using an indexing function in the headstock, to get the desired number of flutes around the diameter.
3. I have marked a pipe clamp. There are two of these, to set the start and stop of longitudinal (axial) cuts, for reproducibility. If you decide to make your own, remember to include something of that ilk.
4. It is entirely possible to turn a cylinder from square-section blanks, but that does not mean you should do so on the router lathe. Remember you are pulverizing the unwanted wood, the width of whatever router bit you are using, at a time. At a minimum, try to make the square section into an octagonal section on the table saw. Unless you like to watch paint dry. Better yet, turn the blank to a cylinder on a lathe, or have someone do it for you.
5. The guide tubes flex a bit, so not suitable for heavy routers (3+ HP). The middle of your spindle will land up thinner than the ends.
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