BITS...$$$$'s and quality

Hi Tally
There's been a lot of discussion on that and similar topics - take a look at this thread maybe as one of the later ones:

http://routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=1956

There are many differences, such as coatings (apparently debatable as to whether it realy makes a difference), not just carbide, but what type (smaller particles are supposed to hold up longer), thickness of carbide edge, etc, etc, ad-nausium.

The reason for suggesting this thread is it references an article that goes into things such as quality and performance versus price - of course, brands that are promoted are subject to bias due to advertizing revenue - but the general premis and info as to construction and quality may be worth looking at.

There's another article I saw several months ago that went in-depth into some other aspects as well - I'll try to find it and get back with the info.

Your question is the million dollar question (and you can spend millions checking them all out) but nobody's gonna concure with some type of absolute rule or brand. And if we ever get a consus, then maybe we should start working on world hunger for the next issue!

An article I read some time ago where they actually ran bits through material seemed to be indicating that price isn't always directly related to the longevity of a bit's usefulness. The bits were all tested on various materials. Both hard and soft woods as well as MDF and I think they included plywood but not sure if that was the same study. In MANY cases teh less expensive bits were noticeably better than the more expensive high end name brands. And MLCS was one of the ones that did well against (I think I have this brand name right) Amana and some other bits we'd think of as being related to quality. They got into all kinds of technical stuff I won't begin to try and say I understand completely, but they talked about not only carbide quality and thickness, but the metals used in the REST of the bit as well and apparently there's more than one way to bond the carbide AND it makes a difference how well they are sharpened/dressed (that part seemed obvious) from the factory.

The message was "sometimes you DON'T get what you pay for" and sometimes it's perfectly valid to get less expensive bits and have them outlast a real expensive one.

*shrug* ... I think you find what you like and you use it until you find something better.

Tally said:

without getting the standadrd answer: you get what you pay for.... can someone tell me what determines a better quality bit and the difference between a $16.00 bit vs. a $83.50 bit?
(example) I purchase my first bullnose bit through MLCS and the cost was $16.00. After searching the site I see names like "CMT" and I will use them for my other example. The same style bull nose bit made by CMT is $83.50, through woodcraft.

Is the "cut" going to be that much cleaner? Is the bit going to last longer? I have no problem with spending good money for a quailty bit, but I hate paying for a name.
thanks
Tally

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Hello Tally,

Here is how I started out. I bought what I could afford which was a set of low quality and cost bits from Lowe's. I use them quite a bit and if I drop and mess one up or dull or damage it while learning to route then I am not out very much money. Now that I have been using a router for over a year, reading and learning more about bits and which ones I like then I will go and spend the money on good quality bits. Other words learn with a cheap set then move up to a higher quality bit or set of bits as you need them or figure out which ones you like and use the most.

Example: I recently bought what I considered a good quality 1 1/2" long 1/2"X1/2" straight bit that I use for all of my Edge Jointing and that is all I use it for. My next good quality bit purchase will be round over bits. These 2 are what I believe I use the most. Raised Panel Bits I may be wrong but I plan to purchase a cheap set to learn with then as my technique/Skill improves and I learn to use them then I will spend the money and buy a good set. Just my 2 cents.

Just a follow up - I found the other article I mentioned on bit quality:

"Woodsmith", Vol. 27/No. 160, August/Sept 2005 - "All about Bargain Router Bits"

I think in general you DO get what you pay for - but that's not to say that you can't spend more than you NEED to (such as shopping at Needless Markup ... oops, Neaman Marcus) - I also don't drive a Bentley but still manage to get around just fine- the spread in costs you were finding seemed a little extreme to me for a somewhat common bit, but I've generally found the CMT bits to be good, clean cutting and they generally hold up well in my experience anyway. That said, I don't do this for a living and am not using them hard on a daily basis. In other words, I don't really need high cost industrial grade bits - median contractor grade bits do fine for my frequency of use and abuse - others would be nuts NOT to get industrial top end grades.

As to "all bits cutting the same", I don't believe that's true - one example would be the shear angle of the cutting edge, even on "straight cut" bits - it's cheaper to make a bit with no shear angle, but a slight shear does make for a smoother cut because it's slicing or paring instead of just cutting/chopping. You'd be surprised at the difference that alone can make, and it adds to the cost of the bit. If it's a bit you'll be using alot, take a look at that - it's worth it even if only for the reduced noise and vibration!

Another thought is that bit makers are in some pretty cut-throat competition - just like all other retail manufacturers, but with an added incentive to be competitive -- the brand of bits you own isn't considered by most to be a status symbol!
If their prices are way out of line with their product quality, they most likely won't be around for too long. However, the low cost - even poor quality - bits we'll always have with us for the obvious reasons.
The advice from GoonMan I think is appropriate - get some less expensive sets first - use them - see what you use most - and then upgrade as your use dictates. No big revelation there, but it makes sense and has stood me well.