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Hi Mike

Do you mean the side part of the base, see snap shot below
If so it's made so you can run the router along a wall to trim the formica top or the plywood so it will fit flush to the wall, many walls are not true.

You could call it a copy cat device :) ,the top would be on sticks to hold it up off the base and the router would be held to the wall and pulled along the top so the formica is trimed true to the wall.

Just a NOTE ****** many people don't use it because they put on a back stop on the back side on the top, to fix the error or to fit the top ,it can be tricky in the corners when you have a full size counter top but with block and a clamp on the top side of the top it can be done easy when the top is off the sub base.

Other ways to use it ▼

I should note that it's nice tool to have when you are buliding built in cabinets most cabinets have a face frame on them and the wall ends have a over hang (over size lip,1/4" to 1/2" ) so you can get it to fit the wall side true and clean, most will use a jig saw/hand plane/hand saw.small trim power saw to remove this little part but you know how hard it can be to remove a little edge from the side of stock clean, the trim router with the jig on the side can do this job easy and clean . :)
Just screw it to the wall for a temp hold job, set the device on the side of the trim router with the adjustment knobs,lock them down then,
Start at the low point and move to the high point and you will have a nice edge to fit the wall,most trim routers run at a very high speed to give you a clean job with the right bit in the router.
Some will let the adjustment float abit and use two hands when you have a bump in the drywall, it will copy the wall to a tee on the side of the cabinet edge.
Molding is made to hide the errors in walls and cutting of the stock, quick fix it's like Bondo on cars,hide the errors and to fill/cover the gap .




Bj :)
 

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Bob has given you one use of the fence.
It was designed also for using beading cutters without bearings to add a beading to non straight edges (Turn the attachment round and allow the bearing to run on the edge.)
It can also be used to insert a small groove when adding decorative material to a top surface, again when the edge is curved.
Tom
 

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More on trimming

I had never thought of reversing the guide,it just shows how valuable this forum is. Here are some staged photographs showing the same jig being used in it's more usual way, also another useful jig, a Ryobi fitted to a Makita trimmer is fine for trimming Laminex using a straight cutter, also for running a chamfer which can be between 0 and 45deg. Have fun Harry
 

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Laminex is a brand name of plastic laminate like Formica. Another common name that might cause confusion is Masonite, which is a brand name for high density fiberboard or hardboard. Plexiglas is a brand name for acrylic sheets. Lexan is polycarbonate sheeting, also known as ballistic or bullet proof glass. HDPE is high density polyethelene, the plastic most often used to build jigs and fences. UHMW is ulta high molecular weight plastic, this is a "self lubricating" product that also works great for fences. Phenolic plastic is the best of the plastics for building mounting plates since it wont sag.
 

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Thanks Mike for that useful information, I have printed a copy for future reference. Harry
 

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harrysin said:
I had never thought of reversing the guide,it just shows how valuable this forum is. Here are some staged photographs showing the same jig being used in it's more usual way, also another useful jig, a Ryobi fitted to a Makita trimmer is fine for trimming Laminex using a straight cutter, also for running a chamfer which can be between 0 and 45deg. Have fun Harry
Thanks Harry For submitting the photographs that will save me a job of doing it
Tom
 
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