Ask your local cabinet shop who sharpens their blades.
It may need a whole new set of Dentures ,Tom..............I have a Freud Industrial glue edge blade that needs resurecting. Didn't realize what I was cutting was actually concrete (don't ask), and the blade barely cuts butter now.
I just got mine back from our local Windsor Plywood store. They sell cabinet grade ply plus exotic lumber. They collect them and send them out to a sharpening service in Penticton which is 3 hours from my place. They wait until they have enough to make sending by courier worthwhile.Most lumber yards collect and send them out to the shop that sharpens their blades. I takes about a week turnaround. I just take mine directly to the sharp shop. You will notice a whale of a difference in the performance, usually better than when they were new
Herb
I did. They send off for all their cabinets, Turns out they don't make anything here.I have a question. I have several circular saw blades of various size that need sharpening.
I have one of those do it yourself sharpeners , but all I can do is one side of the tooth. They don't stay sharp very long that way.
I have searched in my area for a shop that will sharpen them.
Seems most places want you to bring them in and not mail them. I can see how mailing a 60 tooth carbide could be dangerous.
Where do you guys get your sharpened
David
Steve; there was a discussion about this a couple of years back. I wrote the Simple Green manufacturer and they wrote back to say, "No" use their 'Precision Aircraft Cleaner' instead. Apparently Simple Green potentially causes some deterioration of the Carbide if you soak your blade in it...something to do with the Hydrogen atoms if I remember correctly.And just to add a point that sometimes gets overlooked, make sure the blade is clean before deciding it's dull. A clean blade can make a big difference. I clean mine anytime I see pitch gathering on the blade. I was told that good old Simple Green is good for this task. See this link fro more https://mytoolslab.com/how-to-clean-pitch-off-of-saw-blades/
we both did Dan...Steve; there was a discussion about this a couple of years back. I wrote the Simple Green manufacturer and they wrote back to say, "No" use their 'Precision Aircraft Cleaner' instead. Apparently Simple Green potentially causes some deterioration of the Carbide if you soak your blade in it...something to do with the Hydrogen atoms if I remember correctly.
(I think I posted the letter here somewhere.)
sorry to hear about your cousin...Caustics like oven cleaner (lye) not only are bad for blades, they are extremely dangerous. A cousin was cleaning her oven and dropped the open bottle and when it hit the floor the recoil shot liquid into her eye. The eye is discolored , her vision has been permanently affected, and she has had several eye operations to try and improve usage. It just isn't worth the risk.
I've been using Trend Bit and Blade Cleaner and CMT makes one similar. It takes a bit of work with a toothbrush to get a blade clean but it's safe to use. The last time I tried it it left a sticky residue on my blade so I tried some WD40 to get rid of the residue and it did a great job. In fact, I'm finding that WD40 does a great job of getting rid of various sticky residues. Next time I need to clean a blade I'm going to see if just using the WD works. A corrosion prevention test I saw a while back found that WD40 is pretty good at that too and is one of the cheapest solutions.
Steve; not completely off base...their Aircraft Cleaner is supposed to be a really good product! Just fine for soaking carbide tools in.Wasn't aware of problems with Simple Green but do now. Personally I don't have it or use it. I do have the CMT cleaner which I have used and still have a full gallon plus most of that which came in a pint sized sprayer. or is that quart. Haven't looked in a while and probably time to clean them again.
Thanks for the correction and clarification.