[challagan]

What do you guys think of blind dovetails in a box? Do you think they are pleasing to the eye or should be used for drawers. I was thinking on getting the MLCS set up for 59.00 but not sure I like the looks for a box. What you say?

Corey

 

[bobj3]

HI Corey

Well you know what I would say , I love the dovetails out of all the joints you can use in making any box or drawer the dovetail is the most Elegant/Elegance, it tells any one that looks at your work you took the extra step to make it strong and pleasing to the eye it's been a standard for the higher end furniture for a look time.

Out of all the dovetail jigs the MLCS is one of the better one, because it is using 5/8" guide unlike most of the other ones that use a 7/16"-1/2" brass guide with a 1/2" 14deg. dovetail bit.
One pass of the bit is always better than two in this case.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...thtml/pages/dovetailjig.html#halfblind_anchor

But this is just my 2 cents

Bj

 

[challagan]

I likes the looks too. I really screwed up when I could have gotten a good deal on Bob Noles Porter Cable set up. I will probably wait until spring and get the whole jig including the mini templates. I like the looks of the blind dovetail when using 2 different woods but when making with all one type of wood I think thru doves look the best. Thanks again buddy!

Corey

 

[bobj3]

You're Welcome Corey

I also like the thru doves look the best. b/4 you get your card out take a hard look at the MLCS template for thru dovetails.... that you can use to make dovetails on the router table that's quick and easy and what's best of all about the thru dove tails if you want the box 10" x 12" that's how you cut the blanks. ( 10 x 12)

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/dovetailjig.html

The dovetail machines can be a bit tricky to cut the blanks for the box but I'm sure you will make some fire wood getting the hang of it.
But what's nice about the blind dovetail machine you can make the front and the sides at one time, (with one dovetail bit) but it will take time to get the jig set up just right so all the parts come out true on the corners and on the top and bottom of the stock.
The biggest error with the dovetail machine is the stock must be all the same size (thick) and that takes a planer job most of the time b/4 you start and the machine needs to be reset for each size.
That's why I use the router table for dovetail joints (thru type)

It's norm for most to recut the stock or sand all the parts to a true fit.(top and bottom of the parts)

Bj

 

[challagan]

Bob, I see your jig there but I don't understand how you use that on the router table? I liked the blind dove tail jig, looks pretty nice, quick and easy but was thinking since it can only do blind dovetails it would be better to get one that can do it all. Can you show me a photo or two on how you use the thru template on the router table? I buy all my stock dimensioned anyway so I dont think that thickness will be a problem. Anyway, thanks for the info Bob as always!

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Hi Corey

The way you would use the jig on the table, 1st put in a 5/8" brass guide in the router top base plate then the 3/4" dove tail bit ,(both bits and guide comes with the jig from MLCS) (you can also put on a 5/8" OD bearing on the dovetail bit if you don't want to use the brass guide setup or your router table doesn't have that setup)
Then put the stock in the jig, then use some scrap stock (cut off from the same one you are going to use to make the box with) move the dovetail bit up or down in the table ,set it and lock it at the top of the stock.
Once it's locked fire up the router and push the jig into the bit,this will put in the dovetails ,then pop in the 3/8" bit and cut the other part of the box with the same jig.
I put both parts in the at the same time and use the blocks on top of the jig to line up both parts at the same time, then I just flip it around and install a 1/2" bit with a 5/8" OD bearing on it and do the other side.
I put in the dovetails in both parts 1st. and then just turn the jig around and put in the pockets on the other two parts.
In that way all the parts line up true and sq.quick and easy

I will post a picture today what they look like after you have them made.

More snapshots of the jig ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3615-dovetail-jig-router-table.html

Bj

 

[challagan]

Thanks bob, Yeah, I don't have a router plate that would allow for that set up. I didn't think that far down the road. My router table is a Benchdog Protop contractor and they have kind of goofy set ups now that I figured it out. I would have to spend another 99.00 on a new plate and another 40.00 in hearings etc. to use the template guides. Live an learn. Almost be cheaper to put another router and table in the right side of my table saw.

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Hi Corey

Here's a snapshot or TWO

You don't need to use the bass guides, the 5/8" O.D. bearing works great, it fact it works better than the guide guide setup. , just one less thing to to do.
The 5/8" OD bearings are cheap about 6 bucks and they will fit just about any 1/4" shank router bit.
They come in handy for many router jobs, I also put a rubber oil ring under the lock ring that should be used with a bit that has a bearing on it, the little set screws (2-56 x 1/8") that hold the lock ring in place,they have a way of coming out when the bit spins at 20,000 rpm. and the oil ring is just a way to keep the bearing from dropping down,I use a 1/8" oil rings hard to to get on but they don't slide down or come off easy.

Bearings from Grizzly below ▼
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g3854
Sommerfeldtools below ▼
http://www.mailwareweb.com/sommerfeld/item.asp?n=r4zz&d=131&b=1

and I'm sure you have a 1/4" lock ring on one of your bits or on a drill bit for stop coller.
NOTE*** in the picture below of the dovetail slot I used a 1/2" 8 deg.
dovetail bit for that one.

One more NOTE*** Corey .... the black plate you see in the snapshot is a base plate off a PC Router that I made fit the mounting base plate I have in this router table,They are cheap from Rockler or you can get one of the clear ones then use some double sided carpet tape and stick it the one you have
and let the router with a flush trim bit make it the right size to fit your table, a quick and easy fix for not having one that will fit you base plate


Bj

 

[challagan]

That is a sweet set up Bob! Thanks for the pics, I really appreciate it. I was looking around and saved this today that I found. I see your jig and realize it is basically the same thing!

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Hi
Yep sure is, who makes this one ?, I have not seen this one b/4 and the price for it ?.
All I can make out is the DOV????? JIG ( Dovetail Jig)
It almost looks like a Katie, they did at one time use that type of clamp setup.

Bj

 

[challagan]

Bob, it is made in Austrailia I believe. It is called the Gifkins. Also has about 7 templates they sell with it including box joints etc. All 7 of the templates and the jig are like $900.00

www.gifkins.com.au

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Thanks Corey for the feed back

WOW , 900.oo bucks they are proud of that one .
Looks like I may have saved about 175.oo bucks or so by making one.
Looks like about the same price as the Katie Jig. at 229.oo bucks from Katie or sommerfeldtools.com
http://www.mailwareweb.com/sommerfeld/item.asp?n=KJ&f=1

----------
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=95.900.20&dept_id=12984
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=95.900.10&dept_id=12984

---------
Just a side note***I did buy one from sommerfeld tools and that's what got me going, when I got it I said what a joke 225.oo bucks for some Alum. so I made 3 more just to see If I could make a better mouse trap for less that would work the same way or just about the same way, the Katie jig will let you move the fingers to setup many,many templates with the same parts that it comes with it or you can buy more parts but they are not cheap and the guy that own the company just sold out and they are having a hard time shipping anything at this time.

Bj

 

[challagan]

Yup, that looks like their old jig from what I can see. Definitely worth trying to make one. I guess making sure everything is square and the template is mounted exactly is the key thing. We will see... I may want to give this a try this spring.

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Sounds good

You may want to start looking for some good old pallets for the main part of the jig,that's what I used for one of the ones I made ,used (poplar 4 x 4 ) I also found some Oak but I didn't want to cook my tee slot bit making the 3 long cuts, I did start off with a 3/8" carb.bit for the main slot but the tee slot bit will not take the heat build up from the Oak.

That's after you get your back in order .

Bj

 

[del schisler]

dovetail's

i have the older version Gifkins dovetail jig have used it for a couple yrs It is the best one And easy to use 1 set up and you are good to go I have 2 router tables set up and 2 routers one for tales and one for pins that is the GIFKINS DOVETAIL JIG i got mine from japan wood worker in cal. the A10 is $229.00 not to bad link

http://japanwoodworkeronline.com/041203_JWW_SITE/0043.asp

 

[jesselearns]

Hi cory I just cut build my first box using dove tails. I will send a picture soon as I finish it. It is my first And I see I need more practice. Dove tails seem to give a look of a wood worker who takes pride in his work . For a box it looks good. I used a simple harbor freight modle and plan to graduate up later as I mature in my router skills.

jesse

 

[Mike]

Jesse, it does not matter which brand tool you use. The idea is to get nice spacing and tight fitting joints. Dovetails are a nice touch but they are only one method used by pro's. Finger or box joints are decorative and strong. And there is not a single thing wrong with a nice clean miter joint. Practice makes perfect and I always practice.

 

[challagan]

Hi Jessee looking forward to seeing your box!

Corey