This is the box and as you can see, it is too tall so I'll post more pictures when its a bit more advanced.
Boards cut for box.
Wife purchased a 4ft sheet of 3/4 inch ply for the box I'm making, so I cut 2 lengths by 6 inch wide boards 2 days ago & today cut the miters at 15 inches & stood the boards up on my bench to test fit & show my wife how it looks. It's a little too tall at 6 inches was the response,but I expected that.So tomorrow I'll trim each board to 5 inches & show her again & it should be about right.This 15 inch square box is for storing our family photos & I want to make it as nice as possible for her. If it doesn't turn out like we want it to I can then use it to store tools,bits & so on. I'd been saving a a nice piece of Tas. Oak for ages especially for this photo box but turns out it was too short,but I can always buy some more Tassie Oak to make up the extra needed. Should have a pic or two in a day or two. James.jj7777460
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You might want to strengthen those mitered corners with some splines. A couple of ways to do it, and here are pictures that are self explanatory. And the jig to cut them for your box is ultra simple to make. Note how simple the table saw setup is. You can cut splines on your router table as well. Splines add great strength to any box, and if you use a contrasting wood, they can be decorative. I use them all the time in picture frames. You can even make them with a dovetail bit for a strong, but simple dovetail look. Cool, huh?
I make them often enough so I made the fancy jig you see in the middle picture. Very adjustable, a tall divider so I can clamp frame pieces to it, and kind of overkill. A wood strip underneath slides in the miter slot. I use a fine Japanese pull saw to cut off any excess, then sand perfectly smooth. My jig has the blue T track for positioning the spline and blade. The blade always comes through the same slot. If you use the table saw method, you just need to set the blade to an exact 45 degrees to cut both the mitered corners, then to cut the slot for the spline. You do need to make certain the workpiece is exactly 90 to the blade. But cutting with a 45 degree bit is just as good.
A full kerf blade is exactly 1/8th inch wide, so that will also be the thickness of your spline. Glue is so strong the wood will break before the glue fails. Stick turned me on to splines many years ago, so much easier than other methods.
I make them often enough so I made the fancy jig you see in the middle picture. Very adjustable, a tall divider so I can clamp frame pieces to it, and kind of overkill. A wood strip underneath slides in the miter slot. I use a fine Japanese pull saw to cut off any excess, then sand perfectly smooth. My jig has the blue T track for positioning the spline and blade. The blade always comes through the same slot. If you use the table saw method, you just need to set the blade to an exact 45 degrees to cut both the mitered corners, then to cut the slot for the spline. You do need to make certain the workpiece is exactly 90 to the blade. But cutting with a 45 degree bit is just as good.
A full kerf blade is exactly 1/8th inch wide, so that will also be the thickness of your spline. Glue is so strong the wood will break before the glue fails. Stick turned me on to splines many years ago, so much easier than other methods.
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