I'm looking for a bit that results in a paper stack look for a side-of-book profile.
I'd be happy with something similar to the domed/grooved look in the image attached.
or even something in a non-domed profile but with same fine ribbed finish.
Very interesting request. Can you share your project with us? Like, what will it be used for, how many linear feed do you need, etc. I can see one bit making several passes to achieve the profile. But, not one bit to make or clean up in one or two passes. I see it in some "Decor" websites.
I'm guessing it is a specially made molding head. Not for the basic homeowner routers.
Edit: you would be basically be looking for a bit to make this profile:
I did that with my table saw and carefully incremented fence and blade heights. I did this some 30 years ago and have never done it again, but the result was great. I do remember making two passes at each setting and flipping the work end for end for the 2nd pass. Sorry, I know of no router bit that will do this, but it might be possible to order a special one from one of the better bit manufacturers. They might even decide to make a product out of it.
I doubt whether you could get a router bit or spindle moulder cutter to form the profile in your picture. The primary issue is that as the cutter rotates, it can only cope with detail either on axis with the shank (as in plunge routing) or perpendicular to the axis of the shank (as in routing profiles). Your pictured example is effectively a core (recessed curve that could be cut with an appropriately shaped bit) with a series if tangential flutes. Theoretically, a router could cut the upper flute each side as that is close to perpendicular to the bit axis, but as you descend further into the core, the portions of the cutter that are intended to cut the remaining flutes impact the material that should be the flute as it rotates and feeds along the material, removing any material that it contacts. Thus your flutes would be misshapen or totally destroyed in the lower portions of the core.
The only way that I can see to create that profile in material would be to scrape or plane the flutes with a purely linear motion using a form tool. However even this way, the tool would need to pass the full length of the workpiece with a constant depth setting as any attempt to raise or lower the form tool would destroy the flutes locally. The actual core element could be routed with an appropriately profiled bit first but the flutes would need to be cut in a linear manner, rather than with a rotating tool.
I'm wondering if a cutter to make pointed finger joints, making very light passes with just the tips of the bit would do the trick? This one is stackable, so you can get it to fit between covers. There are even finer ones out there as well. You're just going to very lightly skim the edge, probably less than 1/32. This is an expensive bit.
I guess you could do it manualy be taking a piece of a scraper that's the right width to fit between the "book" covers, then filed to many small, fine points, then pulled across edges of the "pages" might do the trick? I take it you're not looking for a very deep cut because it would be quite fragile, depending on the grain of the wood you're using.
One last option would be to sacrifice a fine tooth saw. Go to a metal shop and have them cut a section the right width and use that as a scraper. That would be easy and fairly cheap. Maybe a hack saw blade would do. You'd want to do this in one pass. It would be too easy to mess up with more than a single pass. You can at least try this on a piece of scrap first.
As a last resort, you could just use an awl and some sort of straight edge to indicate pages. I don't think you want the look of fine beads as has been suggested.
You also don't mention whether the book is open or closed. That would make a big difference. And are you making multiples of this?
Another way would be to use a fluting bit and stand the book on end. I would table mount and use a fence with a stick to space the distance. Each pass would use a different stick thickness used to get the flute position correctly. You would cut the flute on each face and then switch to a different spacer stick.
The first option (biscuit joint slot cutter would give really coarse “pages” - 4mm thick.
The second option would fly, as long as the cutter diameter did not “ding” the book “covers”. I guess the #56141 would be the best bet.
Neither would work with the coved shape in the OP’s photo, without some real table-and-fence gymnastics, but he was amenable to a non-coved shape.
I've done a lot of publishing in my lifetime and a book should NOT have a cove shaped edge. The last step in book binding is to use a guillotine to trim away all the rough edges, so the book lays flat and the page edges are all the same. Annoying to read a book that has not been trimmed. Check a library, note that all books are trimmed that way.
My suggestion to use a scraper was only to suggest pages.
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