Glad you decided to join the fun. This is a great place to learn and advance your skills.
The table looks to be pretty decent and appears to be pre drilled for several brands of routers. However, I'd suggest you go with the Bosch 1617 EVSPK, see pix. the kit includes both fixed and plunge bases. The motor is quickly switched between either by releasing a clamp. You can use the fixed base to hold the router under the table. You can order a key (Pix) that will allow you to fine tune bit height without removing the router from the table.
You will remove the plastic base under the router base and use those bolts to bolt the base under the table. I think it will be a very workable table so long as it's flat and not warped or dropped.
Fences are pretty easy to make, you just need to make sure the material is extremely flat Many of us use plywood for such things because it's usually very flat. Maybe one in 50 Home Dept or Lowes lumber is really flat. The taller the fence, the more useful it will be for joinery, especially for times when you want to put a shape to the end of a long, piece such as making doors.
Below is a rather fancy home built fence. Note that it gets held on the table with clamps. You might need to work out how to get the clamp to stay put under the table, but that's a pretty simple thing to fix.
Note that in the picture, the base of the fences and the face are held at a precise 90 degree angle to the table top with blocks cut exactly to 90 degrees. You can use a draftsman's triangle with a 90 degree angle to make sure it's square. You also need to do sawdust relief by trimming the edge off the bottom piece. It gives the sawdust somewhere to go. Note that there is an opening in the fence to make room for the bit. Behind that opening, you can add a dust collection port--Rockler and other woodworking stores sell these in 2.5 inch size to match the Shop Vac hoses.
Speaking of sawdust. Sawdust will ruin your lungs. So you need to invest in some basic dust collection gear. See last pix. A big shop vac will do for starters, but you will need something like the Dust Deputy on top of a bucket set up as in the picture. Dust from the tool goes into the hose, that hose goes into the side of the dust delputy, and the hose from the Shop Vac goes into the top of the dust deputy. The DD and bucket will collect 99l percent of sawdust and bits and pieces of stuff, so your shop vac filter won't clog up too fast.
I always wear a mask when doing any work in the shop, as well as safety glasses and muff style ehearing lprotection. Many carpenters wind up with COPD and fored to quit at age 55.
I also attached a copy of a pdf of the 18+ things that helped speed up my learning curve. It's kind of long but hopefully it will save you some grief and money over time. It took me 12 years to accumulate a full lshop. That was during my peak earning years, so I suggest you really focus on what appeals to you most and accumulate tools that will do that kind of work and make it easier. Hint: get the Wixey digital angle gauge as soon as possible and use it to set your saw EVERY TIME you use it. Cuts less or more than 90 degrees are extremely difficult to join.
One of my favorite books is called the Joint Book. Printed on thick, coated stock, it is meant to live in your shop and shows hoe to make just about any joint you want. Watch You tube videos on setting up each tool. The time you take do set up your tools is minimal, but pays of nicely when you make something.
Sorry about being long winded here, but I'm just paying back all the help I got when I first joined.
