Mike, I had no problem using Freud's Quadra-cut panel raising bit with my 1617. The photo shows a panel that was cut first with a different panel raising bit and then with the above mentioned Freud bit in a PC 690 D handle. (less power)

 

Thanks Mike. The Freud Quadra cut bit is what I was just looking at.

 

I wouldn't try to do the full cut in one pass. That's a lot of wood to take out at once.

 

I have used my 1617 for raised panels on many occassions. I usually complete them in several passes.

 

Thanks.
Note to self: Make several passes...and several pieces to practice on!

 

I can't resist any longer, I've got to know...which answer are you looking/hoping for??

Is it..."Great, I don't have to buy another tool"

or...

"Golly Honey, I didn't want to but everyone on the Forum said that I really need the MegaTron 3000 or we can't do a new kitchen"

C'mon Mike, it's confession time!!

earl

 

Well, I have been lusting over the Triton lately.

But since I already have two good routers, I would rather put the money into something really nice and useful, like this guy!

I'm committed now! I better become a cabinetmaker or I'll be sleeping in the shed!

 

LOL Yeah, I saw the crate in your other thread--enough lumber to build a nice dog house!! Which is what I would need. That's a commitment for sure. I've got a pair of 1617's myself, but I've not spun up a large diameter bit yet. What I've done with it hasn't tested its limits at all.

earl

 

Well, Krap. The bit is too big (Freud #99-515) to fit through the opening in my router plate (Rockler Group A).

Maybe I don't understand how all of this is supposed to be set up.

 

Like Mike said...

I make my own router insert plates. I have a big enough hole through the plate to fit my panel bits through, so they can recess down into that hole. The base of my router is not large enough to recess those sized bits, but with the router plate cut out, then there is enough clearance.

Then I have a round aluminum plate (bushing) that fits down into that hole, with countersunk screw holes in it to screw that down to the base of my router when I'm not using large diameter bits. I have the center of that bushing cut out the same as my other router table, so I can use my plastic bit bushing set on both tables.

That setup has worked out for me for years... where as before I used different router insert plates. I found for me, just screwing in the "bushing" is a lot less work and faster than swapping out the router insert plates.

 

Mike, if the bit diameter is too big to fit through the hole in your mounting plate with the insert removed all is not lost. Pop your router out of the table and you will be able to install the bit above the plate. Drop your router back into the table and add a piece of Masonite or MDF with a clearance hole for the bit; an auxiliary table top. Clamp on a fence and you are ready to make panels.

This is another reason why I suggest the $13 Grizzly mounting plate: I have yet to use a bit that will not fit through it's largest opening.

Oh and Mike... bit changes above the table are easy with a Type 4 Musclechuck. You have to remove the smallest insert from most plates to give clearance for the Musclechuck screw. I prefer using a 4 mm (or 5/32") ball end T handled hex wrench. One half turn to loosen or tighten your bit, no need to lock the shaft.

 

Thanks Mike. I'll see what I can do about an aux table top.
I haven't checked into the musclechuck. Guess I need to do that.

 

Mike, there is a link for a discount on the forums... and if you are getting any reducer bushings you will save big money over Rockler.

 

Thank you sir.

 

WOw...awsome, this is one of the specific questions I had as well. ...I,m using the 1617 with a BenchDawg Plate, and have to mount large panel bits above the table as well. ( i,d read some "advisors" suggestions about simply slowly raising the bit thru the almuminum, but that didnt appeal to me at all!!. I have 2 copies of Grizzlys catalogue, one stays in the "throneroom"..LOL..I havnt stumbled across any router plates from them, let alone a 13.00 one? any help with the part #? Thanks, Bob

 

Here's a link: PT10432047 ROUTER MOUNTING BOARD

Actually, go to their Router Table (Grizzly.com) and click on Purchase Parts. The opening in your Bench Dog (Rockler) table will be smaller that the Grizzly plate but your plate will make a great template to use with a pattern bit to shape the Grizzly plate.

earl

 

Thanks,,,just ordered it,,,i just have the BD plate though,,,my table is a homemade 2" thick butcherblock...so far it does great..

 

And now for an update. This door making stuff is a new venture for me.
First thing I did was make a simple sled to hold the workpiece for the stub tenon cutting operation.

Then I used the Freud premier rail and stile router bit set to mill my door pieces. They turned out great...at least the dry fit did.

Now I am to the point of making an aux table top so the big bit can be used for the raised panel cutting operation.

Happy so far.
Mike

 

Doors are complete and installed.

So, how did I do it?

I immediately realized the dust collection box on my fence was too small. So I shimmed the fence using two pieces of 3/4 inch melamine shelving and cut the bit profile on both pieces. That worked great.

Next I used a piece of 1/4 inch mdf to make an aux table top. I cut a four inch hole in it and secured the mdf to the router table top with a couple of countersunk 1/4-20 bolts.

These mods gave me just enough adjustment to make the raised panels.
Note: I have since bought the Musclechuck for the next set of doors.

I made four passes increasing the cut each time. The router was set to the slowest speed. That bit is really intimidating.

I used space balls in the rails and stiles. Everything worked out perfect and no rework needed.

Thank goodness my wife is small. She made the door installation a snap.
Our granddaughter got in on the glue up. Yeah, I used a prop and not the real door piece.

Hope you like the pics. The doors are ready to paint...after I get over this stomach bug that hit me yesterday. :-(

Mike

 

They look so cute and the door look great also.

Al

 

They look lovely. I especially appreciate your jig for making the frames. Nothing like the comfort, safety, and consistency of using jigs (I am a former free-hander turned jig maker).

 

Looking good Mike.