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My Bosch 4100 came in from CPO Outlets (recon) yesterday and today I unboxed it...

Here's the unboxing...

As I examined the box I found no signs of damage...probably not typical for 100lbs or so of good stuff...so I wondered what kind of packing I would find on the inside.

As I cut the box I see a whole lot of big large-bubble wrap stuck everywhere...made me wonder even more why the cardboard was in such good shape..."slowly I turned"...

I pulled all the bubbles out and placed the saw down to examine it...not a single scratch, dent, or any other disfigurement...

On to the saw..."step by step"...

While it is a heavy saw for it's size, it's still easy enough for this old fart to get it onto the tailgate of my RAM...

I then checked all the nuts and bolts to make sure everything was tight...sure enuff they were...

...Bosch blade, 40-tooth, combo...I'll use this till it goes...riving knife exactly in the center of the kerf...red handle pull-up latch that holds the blade for quick changes...

On to the alignment check...everything was on the money except the rip fence...that needed a bit of adjustment and was a snap with two allen bolts on top of the fence...now dead nuts on...real easy process...

Blade was also parallel to the slot...marked a tooth and measured same front and back...also did it with an opposite tooth just for S&G's...

Miter fence rail is .750 on the money and the slot is .760 from one end to the other...so plenty of aftermarket stuff should fit it in case I don't like the stock miter fence...

Blade height adjustment is smooth as is the angle adjustment...a little care here as it wants to angle to a natural position by itself after loosening the lock...two hands are good till you get the hang of it. This is probably a testimony to it's smooth action...

I noticed a teensy-weensy bit of sawdust in a couple of spots...no doubt a test cut prior to boxing and shipping...

The saw has a lock/unlock for extending the right wing...NICE...adjusted dead on. If you forget to lock the extension, there is a huge red block (3/4" x 2") that stays up and prevents the fence from moving past it and is also a visual indicator that the extension is not locked. Keep in mind that the fence can be locked in position at the far end of the extension and then slide the whole extension in and out for cutting while the fence stays locked. This is slick...there is a separate ruler used for greater than 13 1/2" cut.

So all alignments are dead on...nuts and bolts are tight...time to turn it on and make some test sawdust. I am real anxious to try out the dust extraction port...hope my shop-vac and dust deputy have enough suck...

Tonite I will just turn it on just to listen to the sweet melodic hum of a tight machine...then I will let it rest after a long journey but tomorrow morning it's gonna work for its breakfast of the oldest (but clean) piece of wood I can muster up...gonna rip, cross-cut, dado and all them other fancy words

...stay tuned...more to come...crosscut sled is first project...
 

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I am real anxious to try out the dust extraction port...hope my shop-vac and dust deputy have enough suck...
.
no it won't...
and thanks for setting up my new saw...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no it won't...
and thanks for setting up my new saw...
...it's under lock and key...sold the house, moved, new address, no forwarding...

...ya can't find it...it's hiding...there was a warning in the box right on top...Beware the Stick...I think it was stuck in there by either Bosch CS or CPO Outlets... :)
 

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visualize fall down on floor, doubled over in hysterical can't breathe laughter....
 
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because of the expandable table...
strongly suggest double runnered sled and a clamp on in-feed brackets/supports...
 

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Where is the pics? No picture, no congratulatory reply... Even Neil Armstrong sent pictures all the way back from that studio him and Buzz sneaked off to! :grin:

Congratulations Nick and enjoy!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
because of the expandable table...
strongly suggest double runnered sled and a clamp on in-feed brackets/supports...
Thanks...definitely double runners...

...not sure what you mean by "clamp on in-feed brackets/supports"...

Do you mean mount a couple of clamps to hold down the piece when I'm using it...? If yes, GREAT IDEA ! ! ! Hadn't thought of adding clamps...I've been making the sleds bigger than the table and using F-clamps on the ends...I like the mounted clamps better...Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Where is the pics? No picture, no congratulatory reply... Even Neil Armstrong sent pictures all the way back from that studio him and Buzz sneaked off to! :grin:

Congratulations Nick and enjoy!!!!
Thanks, Marco...the original write-up pointed to pictures I took but I had a hard time uploading them..so I edited it and left the pictures out. When I get some time I'll work on including the pics...I think I just need to resize them.

I'm still wondering where they got those neat pictures of Pluto...maybe they're just Photoshop'ed images of the moon... :)
 

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Thanks...definitely double runners...

...not sure what you mean by "clamp on in-feed brackets/supports"...

Do you mean mount a couple of clamps to hold down the piece when I'm using it...? If yes, GREAT IDEA ! ! ! Hadn't thought of adding clamps...I've been making the sleds bigger than the table and using F-clamps on the ends...I like the mounted clamps better...Thanks...
the big daddy to the 4100 has a clamp on in-feed table....
a little ingenuity is all it takes...
 

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Congratulations Nick, you're gonna be happy with that saw. I've had mine for 6 years and have no problems with it.
Be sure to read the "special" instructions for dado blade use though. I remember being very upset until I finally decided that I didn't know everything and read the instructions.
 

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Thanks, Roger...appreciate the heads up. So far I just turned it on last night to hear it running...smooth, quiet...

Today it makes sawdust...put a carpet down on a pool deck couple of weeks ago and need to make strips from a deck board to staple down the ends...

Should be a blast...pushing through a 16 footer several times to make 1/4 x 1" strips.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Some more observations...

The fence gauge is right on...after about 120 miles in the back of my pickup I slid it to the tailgate, set it for 4 9/16" and lo & behold, 4 9/16" was cut...I had set the fence so the gauge indicates what will be cut between the blade and fence (nothing earthshattering here). I have it set for a few thousands relief on the outfeed...seems to line up and hold that position whenever I move the fence. First I hold the fence into the rail and then lock it in. It's important to set the adjustment screw on the far end of the fence right...follow the manual, it'll pay off...

The fence also allows for 1/4-20x3/4" bolts for an auxiliary fence...track is on the blade side of the fence...there's also a similar slot on the top surface of the fence...it was suggested by Stick to use a 1" piece...makes the math much easier...but then you guys probably know that already. It never bothered me before as I always measured blade to fence for each cut...

I set the fence at 13.5", slid out the table extension and cross-cut a piece using the miter gauge with the extension set at 14", set my piece in place, moved the extension further away and cut...right on the money. Except the miter gauge has a bit of deflection but works okay if you hold pressure on piece and gauge appropriately. Some sandpaper might help to hold or adding an auxiliary fence. The stock gauge is a teensy bit light but fits the slot nicely. I held the miter gauge to the blade side of the rail guide. I have not intentions of replacing it just yet...

Now on to some real cuts...

I need to make some small trim (about 1/4x1") from some decking boards...need it to tack down some carpet around a pool deck. The board is 5 1/2" wide, set the fence at 5" and cut off the board edge...16FT long ! Then I moved the fence to 4 1/2" and took off another slice...just practicing at this point...I'll cut the 1/4" strips tonight. The cut-off was the same 1/2" minus the kerf all the way down the piece... Yes...outfeed roller, featherboard, nobody to touch the end of the board, etc... Next time around I'll set the 1/4" to the fence...GRRipper - time to earn your keep...

While there is no lock on the height adjustment, the blade never moved...

Sawdust shot out the out port cleanly...did not hook up any suction...

Saw started up smoothly, runs quiet and doesn't even think about slowing down through the cut. However, I did think I detected a difference in the saw when I used a 100' 12 gauge extension cord. When I attached my 75' 10-gauge, no problem while cutting the 16' length. Looks like the saw wants all the power it can grab. Manual does not show any extensions in the table beyond 12-gauge 50 feet...there's probably a good reason for that.

...and then made cuts in various thicknesses, angles and 90's.

The edges were cut so smooth that if I were to be edge-jointing I'd have no problems slapping the glue on after the cut. No doubt a function of the blade AND the smoothness of the saw.

I'm not an expert and I don't do this every day so these are really comfort observations for me...maybe others who use saws every day might see things differently. All I can say is the saw is very comfortable to use and it cuts comfortably and smoothly like a "hot knife through butta"...

It was mentioned to me that I sound like a kid with an ice cream cone...I tend to think of it as "a kid with an ice cream cone that knows it can drip if not careful"...and buying it reconditioned from CPO didn't bother me one bit...there's not even a scratch on it...

So...if you're new to more frequent need of a TS, give this a shot...it's worth the money...
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I guess I should have put this in "Tool Reviews"...
 

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Some more observations...

The fence gauge is right on...after about 120 miles in the back of my pickup I slid it to the tailgate, set it for 4 9/16" and lo & behold, 4 9/16" was cut...I had set the fence so the gauge indicates what will be cut between the blade and fence (nothing earthshattering here). I have it set for a few thousands relief on the outfeed...seems to line up and hold that position whenever I move the fence. First I hold the fence into the rail and then lock it in. It's important to set the adjustment screw on the far end of the fence right...follow the manual, it'll pay off...

The fence also allows for 1/4-20x3/4" bolts for an auxiliary fence...track is on the blade side of the fence...there's also a similar slot on the top surface of the fence...it was suggested by Stick to use a 1" piece...makes the math much easier...but then you guys probably know that already. It never bothered me before as I always measured blade to fence for each cut...

I set the fence at 13.5", slid out the table extension and cross-cut a piece using the miter gauge with the extension set at 14", set my piece in place, moved the extension further away and cut...right on the money. Except the miter gauge has a bit of deflection but works okay if you hold pressure on piece and gauge appropriately. Some sandpaper might help to hold or adding an auxiliary fence. The stock gauge is a teensy bit light but fits the slot nicely. I held the miter gauge to the blade side of the rail guide. I have not intentions of replacing it just yet...

Now on to some real cuts...

I need to make some small trim (about 1/4x1") from some decking boards...need it to tack down some carpet around a pool deck. The board is 5 1/2" wide, set the fence at 5" and cut off the board edge...16FT long ! Then I moved the fence to 4 1/2" and took off another slice...just practicing at this point...I'll cut the 1/4" strips tonight. The cut-off was the same 1/2" minus the kerf all the way down the piece... Yes...outfeed roller, featherboard, nobody to touch the end of the board, etc... Next time around I'll set the 1/4" to the fence...GRRipper - time to earn your keep...

While there is no lock on the height adjustment, the blade never moved...

Sawdust shot out the out port cleanly...did not hook up any suction...

Saw started up smoothly, runs quiet and doesn't even think about slowing down through the cut. However, I did think I detected a difference in the saw when I used a 100' 12 gauge extension cord. When I attached my 75' 10-gauge, no problem while cutting the 16' length. Looks like the saw wants all the power it can grab. Manual does not show any extensions in the table beyond 12-gauge 50 feet...there's probably a good reason for that.

...and then made cuts in various thicknesses, angles and 90's.

The edges were cut so smooth that if I were to be edge-jointing I'd have no problems slapping the glue on after the cut. No doubt a function of the blade AND the smoothness of the saw.

I'm not an expert and I don't do this every day so these are really comfort observations for me...maybe others who use saws every day might see things differently. All I can say is the saw is very comfortable to use and it cuts comfortably and smoothly like a "hot knife through butta"...

It was mentioned to me that I sound like a kid with an ice cream cone...I tend to think of it as "a kid with an ice cream cone that knows it can drip if not careful"...and buying it reconditioned from CPO didn't bother me one bit...there's not even a scratch on it...

So...if you're new to more frequent need of a TS, give this a shot...it's worth the money...
Nick:
This a good initial review, as I've considered a 4100. But I'm confused/concerned about the portion that I highlighted above. (of course, without pictures it's hard to visualize what you were doing).
Were you using the miter gauge and fence at the same time? If so, that's a big no-no. If not, I didn't understand what you were doing.

Vince
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Nick:
This a good initial review, as I've considered a 4100. But I'm confused/concerned about the portion that I highlighted above. (of course, without pictures it's hard to visualize what you were doing).
Were you using the miter gauge and fence at the same time? If so, that's a big no-no. If not, I didn't understand what you were doing.

Vince
I slid the fence to 13.5", locked it and then released and slid the table extension to 14"...put my piece on the miter gauge, put it up against the fence for measurement, then slid the table extension and fence away from the piece and then cut.

My reason for doing it this way is to make sure that if the extension said 14", it would cut to 14"...

I did not leave the fence engaged against the piece while cutting...but thank you for asking for clarification...

***EDIT*** I should add that after I moved the table extension away from the piece you have to lock the extension again...there is a red safety block that comes up past the table surface that would prevent you from placing a piece of wood flat on the table...this prevents you from moving the table extension inadvertently when extended.

***2nd EDIT*** I should have explained the reason for the 13.5" setting. Whenever you need to cut beyond 13.5", the procedure is to set the fence at 13.5", lock it down, then unlock the table extension for cuts wider. The entire extension then, along with the fence locked at its 13.5" position, acts as the adjustable fence then you lock it down again. The rail has two rulers...one increasing in size to the right (normal) up to 13.5" and an upper ruler that picks up at 13.5" and goes to 25. That upper ruler has lower numbers at the right and bigger numbers to the left...so as you extend the table a second pointer attached to the table shows the increasing space between blade and fence...
 
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