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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Good Morning everyone,

I would like to preface this with "I am an amateur beginner in routing". The first time I removed my router from the box was to install it into my saw table.

In my (what seemed like lifelong) attempt to find a descent router table without having to pay a grand, I settled on the RA 1181 because it's 27" top fit my saw table. Everytime I found a 27" table for a table saw the price was rediculous. I have a Delta 36-725T2 table saw and limited shop space and the aluminum top worked out well with spacers (washers) on one side. It also worked well because I had a Bosch 1617 EVSPK router package. That meant the plate was made for my router and it was 3/8 aluminum. At the end of my saw was an empty spot and this gives me super easy access to the latch mechanism for installing/removing the router and access to the major adjustment latch. This added in well with the 1617's fixed base having a built in above table micro-adjust. In addition to all this it also supplied me with a switch and breaker assembly and an aluminum fence. It was $229 delivered vs the $600+ for a mediocre table. I guess I could have built it but I now have a very flat table, fence and some accessories.

Since I am new (wet behind the ears) at routing I can only say at first glance it will work. I have no idea as to why they machined the mitre track to 4/5" (.8)and not 3/4" (.75). If that is a tolerance error God help them. My 3/4" featherboard from my saw will not tighten up at all in it. The included featherboards have to use slots cut through the bottom of the mitre track to attatch (they also fit on the fence). They are shaped like Keymod if your are familiar with the ar-15 platform (p.s. I am an mlok guy). The table is flat after some work, the areas where grooves or slots were cast are subject to high spots (gotta love 80 grit disc). Being as inexperience as I am I have so many questions that will make most of you think, "yep, this guy's going to visit the ER shortly".

What would happen if I tried to route something bigger than the bosch table and tried to use my saw area and saw fence on the backside of the router table? I believe it to be flat enough and I know it would reverse the direction but the thought of it makes me think "does this look right".

Can I fasten jigs to this type of table?

Will the router forums have a pool on how many fingers will I loose in the first month?

Well I guess that is enough for now. It seemed like a good fit but there has to be more than a few drawbacks to a $229 router table and fence mounted at the end of a saw.

Thanks for watching
Donny

P.S. I am starting out with 10 fingers.
 

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excellent execution...
KUDOS....
 

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Since I am new (wet behind the ears) at routing I can only say at first glance it will work. I have no idea as to why they machined the mitre track to 4/5" (.8)and not 3/4" (.75). If that is a tolerance error God help them. My 3/4" featherboard from my saw will not tighten up at all in it.

You might try a strip of UHMW tape in the track...I'm pretty sure the oversize track was due to Metric sizes...

What would happen if I tried to route something bigger than the bosch table and tried to use my saw area and saw fence on the backside of the router table? I believe it to be flat enough and I know it would reverse the direction but the thought of it makes me think "does this look right".

No problem, except where you might need to break down the setting of one or the other and then return to it. Consider your workflow when you need to use both in the same project...

Can I fasten jigs to this type of table?

"Depends"...on what jigs you plan to use. I'm guessing the Bosch miter track might have something to do with this question...?

Will the router forums have a pool on how many fingers will I loose in the first month?

Not getting in on that pool...just be careful anytime you have fingies near whirley thingies...

Well I guess that is enough for now. It seemed like a good fit but there has to be more than a few drawbacks to a $229 router table and fence mounted at the end of a saw.

Thanks for watching
Donny

P.S. I am starting out with 10 fingers.
...
 

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Dear 10-finger Donny,
Congrats on a great integration on your TS - I would do the same if my shop space allowed for it. You just need a spiffy lift to finish the job. I shaved the phenolic top of a Jessem Rout-R-Lift to fit into the same RA1181 tabletop for my 1617 router. Love it!
 

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...

You might try a strip of UHMW tape in the track...I'm pretty sure the oversize track was due to Metric sizes...
fasten the UHMW tape to the WALL of the miter slot...
be aware that UHMW tape comes in a range of thicknesses and widths...
plan ''B'' is to use automotive chrome molding trim tape....
 

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The slots mentioned might be metric and a metric headed bolt might fit, if they are "T" slots. I have also found that toilet seal ring bolts can be used ,might have to grind the width to make them fit.

We don't reccomend sacrificing fingers here or thumbs either, please, blood stains don't come out of cast iron ,aluminum, or wood easily, and interrupts the workflow of a project.

I have rarely used the miterslot on the router table except for feather boards.

Looks like you have a good set up going for you there.
Herb
 

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is the slot in the 1181 a ''T'', miter or both???
if it's a ''T'', 5/16''x18 toilet flange bolts will work well...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I tried to post a jpeg but in an anusual message it said it would not post until moderator approved and I have posted pics before ?????

Typical mitre slot except keymod style holes in bottom for featherboards.
 

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I have not seen that method of attaching feather boards. Most use "T'" miter slot or an expansion type block in the miter slot. If you want to use that slot for a miter gauge, you can build a sled with a hard wood bar to fit the slot.
Herb
 

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0.04'' (40 mils/1MM) thick UHMW should do you just fine...
 

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I have not seen that method of attaching feather boards. Most use "T'" miter slot or an expansion type block in the miter slot. If you want to use that slot for a miter gauge, you can build a sled with a hard wood bar to fit the slot.
Herb
use the UHMW tape and then existing miter gauges can be used or a sled, which then can be used on the TS also...
no dedicated anything...
Wedge mounted featherboards can be used on other machines w/ miter slots...
 

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Wow, thanks for posting this and great job!

I have the same table saw and that opening is still a void.
Your solution could be exactly what I've been looking for - a cost effective method of adding a router table.

I too am a beginner router and still have 10 fingers as well.

Questions:
1. Can you get more detailed about how you installed it. Did you have to drill anything, cut anything etc.
2. For feather boards, can you those magnetic ones?

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
@newbie2wood, hope this helps.

1. I used only the existing hardware form the Bosch table and existing Delta saw table.

2. The Delta T-square saw fence cleared all the new bolt heads, most are carrige bolts and the square part of bolt fit inside the holes and didnt stick out.

3. Leave all the bolts a little loose so you can align the table.

4. one of the bosch bolts was very soft and pulled in half.

5. Take the time to get it level. I leveled mine to the saw cast iron top as the exstension wing had a droop in the middle.

6. The fence on the bosch is aluminum, so I dont know about the magnetics??

7. The reference to front and back is as if you were standing at your table saw using it.

8. The delta T-square fence goes all the way to the right over bosch table.

9. I shimmed it because I didnt want to pull on the table to stress it, I wanted it with no space in between so it just tightened down, it didnt stretch anything.

10. Images 2 and 3 are the front top and bottom. Images 4 , 5 and 6 are of the back of the saw / table.


I started by moving the Delta saw fence to the far left. Then I removed the spreader bar from the far right side of the saw (4 bolts). I then

removed 1/2 of the saw's right front square tubing the T square fence uses to slide along (the one with the measuring tape on it). Three hex screws on the

underside and it slides off. You have to pull the tube to the right as the left side has a tounge inside the right one. I then clamped a wide board

with several clamps on each side to support the table while I positioned it. I had to use different scrap wood as shims to set the height close.

Once it was in place I made the decsion which holes to drill. I admit they are a little random as I used some existing and drilled some non

existing. I might even add a couple as time goes by. I was personally running out of steam and was in pain so it may benefit from a couple more

bolts. I shimmed the back side between the rail and the table as the table was appx 1/16th" shy of 27" (using 1/16th washers). I shimmed the back

because I wanted to keep the front (T-square Delta fence) side as square as possible and up against the flat table. I also shimmed between the

extension wing and the bosch table because I did not get it close enough before drilling the holes. Keep in mind the Delta saw rails are 10 times as

hard to drill as anything. The bosch top drills easy. The extension wing is easy as well. Just make sure you use steel drill bits and not your

wood bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Two added benefits for this mod is the switch included with the RA 1181 switch has 2 ganged 115 connections, one for the router and one for a shop vac or light. The second is the aluminum ( Al-you-many-um for our friends across the pond) is the weight, The distribution and balance are fine as compared to adding a 55lb cast iron type.
 

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@Old Bull ,

Thank you so much - that is an incredible tutorial and greatly appreciated!

Question - maybe a dumb one, but when you removed the measuring rail, did you put it back on or leave it off?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
@Old Bull ,

Thank you so much - that is an incredible tutorial and greatly appreciated!

Question - maybe a dumb one, but when you removed the measuring rail, did you put it back on or leave it off?

The spreader bar is the thin bar all the way to the right that mounts with 2 bolts on each side, it is permanetly removed as the new table provides the support for the rails.

The square tubing with the ruler goes back on and is used as it was before, that is why I made sure to note the t-square fence will not hit the bolts. The image below is of the final product. I allowed myself to have a pretty sloppy t-square saw fence before this mod, when I added this router top I took some of the side-to-side slop out of it so it passed over the bolts more smoothly. As far as passing over the top of the new router table these tops are subject to high spots where the casting has slots or grooves or contours. It does catch a tiny bit in the last 3 inches to the right but I am not ever going to go that far, It doesn't stop and it goes over it without help but you can hear it make a slight noise.

The permanently removed spreader bar is lying across the top of the saw table in the image below.


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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Warning, The Bosch 1617 fixed base has so far proven to be unable to raise bit height high enough. Could be me but I am still looking.

1. The original black base was removed.

2. the bits are 1/2" shank.

3. The router is physically striking the bottom of the base and can not go higher.

4. The microadjust is also as high as the base will allow. The angled portion of the router is striking the bottom of the base and will go no further.

5. The major adjustment ( 3 settings) is at the top.

6. The plate is 3/8".
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