Jenny, if you don't have the manual, here's a video that might help:

 

Thanks, Vince. I've looked at that video, it is helpful. But I'm assuming the screws should be tight on the mounting plate and mine aren't tightening down.

 

Jenny...I have the 1181 but am not familiar with the "four screws" you speak of...can you be more specific...? Maybe a picture...? Or reference to the parts diagram...?

There are (EDIT) six adjustment screws for leveling which you should concentrate on first...then the other four screws to help secure the plate.

If you are referring to the screws on each of the corners, yes they need to be snug but not overtight as they would counteract the adjustment screws.

The procedure is to leave enough slack in the four screws so that the other six screws have enough room to allow the plate to go up and down (leveling). Once you have leveled the plate, with a straight edge, to the rest of the table, the four screws are then snug down to hold the plate. If you overtighten them (the four screws) you will find that you will sink the plate a little lower and then need to readjust the other six screws. Kinda like a small balancing act. After you've done this successfully, check those four screws after using the table for a while to make sure they have not loosened from the vibration.


Does this help...?

 

Nick, yes, that helps. I have the plate leveled. It is the 4 screws that I can't seem to get tightened but pretty sure I'm using the right ones. Here's 2 photos identifying them. The nut threads smoothly only until the screw is set, can't get beyond that. Thus, the screw doesn't stick out below the nut, leaving almost 3/4" of play where the screw can be pushed up and down in the hole. Hope that makes sense.

My question is, should they actually be tight to snug the plate to the table? If so, do I force it with a wrench on the nut? That seems wrong since it would be so much effort to remove the router and router plate.

The second photo came from some video; it looks exactly like what I'm trying to use, even the nut.

Thanks, hope you have an answer!
Jenny

 

keep turning...
that's a nylock nut...
hold the nut w/ a wrench and keep turning the screw...
the nylon insert generates a lot of friction so the screw will turn hard...

 

cool...
hammer nail...

.

 

Yup, not ME though, LOL!

 

OK, will get a wrench on the nut and try harder. I just find it hard to believe that it should be this hard, considering you fairly often will want to remove the plate ...

 

the idea is for the nut to stay tight despite vibration..
why do you need to remove the plate often...

 

If I understand you correctly, Jenny, many of the members don't screw their plates down at all. As long as the plate is a really nice fit to the aperture in the table, the weight of the router hanging from it stops it from moving.
From past discussions on this, apparently simply lifting the router & plate out to make adjustments is a popular approach to adjusting bit height/changing bits/ etc.
I'm just the messenger...I still haven't built my table.

 

I just thought I'd have to remove the plate frequently, like to change collets, etc. But, I really don't know since I haven't even tried anything yet. Just trying to get set up right.

 

I've never screwed mine down because it is so much easier to change bits with it out and laying on it's side. Also major height changes are quicker that way. I might add though that it is much easier to change bits if you have the one wrench system where there is a shaft locking mechanism on the router. If you have a 2 wrench system then you may not find it any easier to take it out.

One of the other things that make taking the router out handier is that the router and plate can be used to edge profile where you need the router to be more steady. Normally when edge profiling only about 40%-45% (at best) of the base of the router is sitting on the work. Using the table insert plate with it makes it quite a bit steadier. You can look up offset router plates if you want to see more about that.

 

find a Bosch 1617 and put that in the table...
leave it there...
no pulling the plate..
change bits and adjust as is...
https://www.cpotools.com/factory-re...-1617evs-46-2-25-hp-fixed-base-electronic-router/bshr1617evs-46,default,pd.html

 

Really? Everything I've read and heard is that the plate needs to be secured firmly. Any other thoughts on this issue?

 

so secure the plate...
use a 1617 and don't unsecure the plate...
my TR plate isn't secured...

 

Thanks, Stick, but I think my Milwaukee is a good router, not going to replace it at present. Just want to get set-up and running.

 

yes, your Milwaukee is a good router...
but one router is never enough...
when yur using more than one style of bit on a project...
or after a couple of in/out of table experiences you'll know...

 

yes, your Milwaukee is a good router...
but one router is never enough...
when yur using more than one style of bit on a project...
or after a couple of in/out of table experiences you'll know...

 

Both of mine routers/insert plates just sit in the recessed ledge. My table is a little different than yours. I also use it for other things, so when the router(s) aren't needed, I lift them out and insert a blank plate.

 

Thanks, Mike. I think I'm comfortable with not securing the plate now. Already learned reality vs. instructions.

 

I'm going with the consensus, Jenny. I've got a Bosch 1617 router, and a Kreg insert plate in a home made table. I don't screw the insert plate down. The weight of the router holds it there. When I want to change bits or collets, I lift the router and plate out of the table and go to it. Then I drop the router/plate back into the table. No problems, no worries about having anything held down tight.

 

Thanks, Vince. I just did exactly that ... changed out the collet and bit, put the plate back and did a couple different cuts. Learning!

 

There's nothing wrong with following instructions, Jenny. Once you become more confident, you begin to see opportunities that a manufacturer isn't going to suggest, likely for fear of liability issues.
The members here represent thousands of collective hours of applied practice and trust me, if something's risky they're not shy about telling the potential victim.
You might enjoy any of Bill Hylton's Router books...
https://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-...87WQF9D3CFYTV179&pd_rd_w=vbNYN&pd_rd_wg=SBGhQ&psc=1&refRID=MC3F87WQF9D3CFYTV179
Phenomenal amount of info!

 

Jenny here is one example of an offset router base. There are others but the idea is always the same,i.e they are designed to make the router more stable when doing edge work. Using the router while a table insert plate is still attached does the same job. https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tools/milescraft-offset-router-base