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Bosch router table starter pin

16523 Views 28 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  harrysin
Anyone know where one would be able to purchase a starter pin for a Bosch router table RA1181?
I have searched the internet, ereplacement parts, etc.

Bosch says Home Depot is the place to get Bosch service and parts.
Visited Home Depot, no one there knew what I was talking about.

Anyone have a hint?

Thanks,
Jim
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Jim you can make one for almost nothing by finding a 3" bolt with the same thread as the hole in your plate and then installing it with the head cut off.
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Jim; no idea if it's the same one(or thread) but the Bosch plate comes with one. Mine did but I just looked up the plate and it doesn't say it does(?) ... Bosch RA1250
Is this what you 're looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/Starter-Pin-Router-Table-Insert/dp/B0041H6WZA
Cherryvillechuck,
Thanks for the note. The parts list says the pin is a 1/4-28 thread. Sounds foreign, perhaps metric. Would the threads not leave thread marks on the work piece? I'll check the local hardware store.
Thanks again,
Jim
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Bosch starter pin

DaninVan,
The RA1181 comes with the pin. It's a 1/4-28 thread. If the pin you recommended came with a 1/4-28 thread it would work. Bought the table off Craigslist and pin was the only thing missing. Love the table though it works great for a weekend novice.
Thanks for the note.
Jim
Cherryvillechuck,
Thanks for the note. The parts list says the pin is a 1/4-28 thread. Sounds foreign, perhaps metric. Would the threads not leave thread marks on the work piece? I'll check the local hardware store.
Thanks again,
Jim
Jim go to your local hardware store and they will have a 1/4"x28 bolt for about a dollar or less. Get the lowest grade bolt they have it will be softer so you can cut the head off.
...The parts list says the pin is a 1/4-28 thread. Sounds foreign, perhaps metric...
That's 1/4 inch fine thread (not metric). Should be easy to find. If you go this way, get one that's not threaded all the way. So the part showing would be smooth.

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Thanks all,
Sounds like a trip to the hardware store today. This appears to be rhe easiest and cheapest way to go.
Many thanks to all who responded.
Jim
Hey, Jim; you probably already thought of this, but you can also cut a portion of the bottom threaded section off as well, if you think the threads are going to be above the deck by too much. Buy a nut as well; run it up the thread before you make the cut, then run it back down and off...it'll 'chase' the cut portion so you don't damage the threaded hole in the deck.
Just makes life easier! :)
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Cherryvillechuck,
Thanks for the note. The parts list says the pin is a 1/4-28 thread. Sounds foreign, perhaps metric. Would the threads not leave thread marks on the work piece? I'll check the local hardware store.
Thanks again,
Jim
Jim, knowing about thread pitches is some useful info so I'll quickly describe how it works so that you can recognize it. Any thread pitch that starts with a fraction is SAE (Imperial- which now only applies to the US and I think 2 other countries in the world). Many people think that the size of the hex head is the size of the bolt but that can vary. What it refers to is the shaft of the bolt, i.e. it's diameter. The second number refers to the number of threads per inch. As pointed out, 1/4" x 28 is a standard fine thread pitch. Standard coarse is 1/4" x 20 threads per inch.

Metric thread usually starts with M, the diameter of the shaft, then the distance between 2 threads. A 6 millimeter bolt would be close to the same size as a 1/4" but it would be listed as something like M6 x .75 or 1. In the metric example the .75 pitch would be a finer thread as the ridges are closer to each other than the 1.0 pitch.

It's worth knowing this because it can save you some grief. If something doesn't want to thread together it may be because one is SAE and the other is metric. It's only the US and I think 2 3rd world countries that aren't metric so you will gradually see SAE disappear. Everything that US companies sell abroad already have to be labeled in metric and sold in metric measure so it may still happen in our lifetimes.
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use a headless shoulder bolt....

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You guys are great! Stick486 specifically, suggested a 1/4-28 headless shoulder bolt. Dragged my butt to the local True Value hardware store. Sales guy walked to the shoulder bolt area, picked up a 1/4-28 and my table is now complete. Total cost....49 cents.

Many thanks, again to all that responded.

Jim
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a headless shoulder screw would have been cheaper...
The gas to the hardware store was more than 49 cents.
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Picky, picky... :)
you know how it is...
The gas to the hardware store was more than 49 cents.
should have picked up several...

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'Cause as everyone knows, the spares will be right there when you need one; no searching through stuff... ;)
'Cause as everyone knows, the spares will be right there when you need one; no searching through stuff... ;)
right here...

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