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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a never been used Porter Cable 890 Router I want to mount to a table. Found a table on local FB Marketplace for $125. I do not know model but it looks very nice and hardly used. Has cabinet below, electrical switch, and fence. My problem is knowing how easy it will be to mount my router on that table. Suggestions please.
 

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Ross
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Welcome to the forum. A picture would help in seeing what you have to work with. If the RT has a lift it will be the determining factor by it's motor diameter capability.
 

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Paul
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Usually you take off the baseplate of the router and then use the screw-holes to mount the router to the table. The pattern for those holes can be different for different routers. Porter Cable is a common pattern but not the only one. Some tables have a separate plate, which can be removed, replaced or drilled to accommodate your router. That's why a picture of the table would be nice to see.
 

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These are the 3 Bosch router table models, which are you thinking of getting? All list compatibility with Porter Cable 892-895-Series routers (in fixed bases only). I don't know if that would include the 890, do you have a fixed or plunge base? A photo of it?
 

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Tengees info was good. Personally, with that combination, I'd suggest you build a table of your own. The top is pretty easy and I'll get to that.

The key is to get a router mounting plate pre drilled for your very common router. Many companies make them and you can check any of them to make sure it's drilled for your router. Once you get that plate, making the table top is next.

I suggest making it in two layers of VERY FLAT ply, preferably Baltic Birch or Apple Ply. To make it easier to make, put a half inch layer on top, 3/4 on the bottom. I'd make it a fairly large table top. 20x 36 inches would be my choice. I'll get to the stand in a bit.

Lay the plate on the top layer and draw the outline on the UNDERSIDE of the top layer. Use a jig saw to cut the hole out as close to the line as possible. Cut through the bottom. I suggest you put a layer of painter's tape on the top side to reduce splintering. Make sure the plate fits snugly in the opening so you can lift it out when you want to.

Now clamp the top to the bottom so the edges are lined up. Draw a line half an inch inside the cutout. This will give you an edge to hold the plate up. Cut that out. Glue and then put a couple of brads through so the two pieces stay aligned while the glue sets up. Give it a couple of hours.

You will really be happy you made this larger than the Bosch tables.

You have to adjust the height of the plate so it matches the top. Kreg makes some nice leveling screw devices for not much money, see picture, You level the plate so your workpiece doesn't catch on the edge of the table or plate as you work on it.

For a fence, you can do something very simple, A really straight 2x4 or 2x6 will do for a start. If you want to get fancy, you can use two very straight 3/4 inch pieces of hardwood, glued into an L shape with triangles cut to hold the fence at 90 degrees to the table. You need to cut an opening for a bit because there will be times that you will only have a part of the bit exposed. Routers throw off a tremendous amount of sawdust, so with the L shaped fence, you can use a dust port (see picture) from any of the woodworking specialty stores. This hooks up to a dust collection device.

A stand. Many folks just lay the top across some saw horses, but there are a thousand ways to hold that top. You can make or buy a stand. Harbor Freight has one that's pretty cheap, or you can make a simple stand. Or check second hand stores for a low dresser, or cut a tall one down. You are likely to have this for a number of years because it is so useful.

Final thought. Some folks apply a top laminate layer, which you can do at any time, but you can also just use pure paste wax (no additives) rub it in and polish the heck out of it. Not necessary, but it will protect the surface on those occasions when you run out of table space and use this top for glue ups. I've included a couple of extra pictures FYI, one is a side view of the lip formed by the second layer with an indicator of the leveling screw.

Another is a picture of a shop built fence. It is rather fancy, having a split front.

Hope this is helpful. It will be far easier to make than you think. Just make sure the ply is really flat, same with the fence.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks so much for all the input. Have decided to build my own table and am currently looking at supplies as suggested by DesertRat Tom. I am not doing high precision or fancy work. I am a beekeeper and love to build as much of my equipment as possible. A router would make some of that work so much easier.

I will keep checking back for advice when needed. Thanks again.
 
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