Welcome to the forum @rmdial70
Bosch Table question
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Tengees info was good. Personally, with that combination, I'd suggest you build a table of your own. The top is pretty easy and I'll get to that.
The key is to get a router mounting plate pre drilled for your very common router. Many companies make them and you can check any of them to make sure it's drilled for your router. Once you get that plate, making the table top is next.
I suggest making it in two layers of VERY FLAT ply, preferably Baltic Birch or Apple Ply. To make it easier to make, put a half inch layer on top, 3/4 on the bottom. I'd make it a fairly large table top. 20x 36 inches would be my choice. I'll get to the stand in a bit.
Lay the plate on the top layer and draw the outline on the UNDERSIDE of the top layer. Use a jig saw to cut the hole out as close to the line as possible. Cut through the bottom. I suggest you put a layer of painter's tape on the top side to reduce splintering. Make sure the plate fits snugly in the opening so you can lift it out when you want to.
Now clamp the top to the bottom so the edges are lined up. Draw a line half an inch inside the cutout. This will give you an edge to hold the plate up. Cut that out. Glue and then put a couple of brads through so the two pieces stay aligned while the glue sets up. Give it a couple of hours.
You will really be happy you made this larger than the Bosch tables.
You have to adjust the height of the plate so it matches the top. Kreg makes some nice leveling screw devices for not much money, see picture, You level the plate so your workpiece doesn't catch on the edge of the table or plate as you work on it.
For a fence, you can do something very simple, A really straight 2x4 or 2x6 will do for a start. If you want to get fancy, you can use two very straight 3/4 inch pieces of hardwood, glued into an L shape with triangles cut to hold the fence at 90 degrees to the table. You need to cut an opening for a bit because there will be times that you will only have a part of the bit exposed. Routers throw off a tremendous amount of sawdust, so with the L shaped fence, you can use a dust port (see picture) from any of the woodworking specialty stores. This hooks up to a dust collection device.
A stand. Many folks just lay the top across some saw horses, but there are a thousand ways to hold that top. You can make or buy a stand. Harbor Freight has one that's pretty cheap, or you can make a simple stand. Or check second hand stores for a low dresser, or cut a tall one down. You are likely to have this for a number of years because it is so useful.
Final thought. Some folks apply a top laminate layer, which you can do at any time, but you can also just use pure paste wax (no additives) rub it in and polish the heck out of it. Not necessary, but it will protect the surface on those occasions when you run out of table space and use this top for glue ups. I've included a couple of extra pictures FYI, one is a side view of the lip formed by the second layer with an indicator of the leveling screw.
Another is a picture of a shop built fence. It is rather fancy, having a split front.
Hope this is helpful. It will be far easier to make than you think. Just make sure the ply is really flat, same with the fence.
![397368]()
![397369]()
![397370]()
![397371]()
![397372]()
The key is to get a router mounting plate pre drilled for your very common router. Many companies make them and you can check any of them to make sure it's drilled for your router. Once you get that plate, making the table top is next.
I suggest making it in two layers of VERY FLAT ply, preferably Baltic Birch or Apple Ply. To make it easier to make, put a half inch layer on top, 3/4 on the bottom. I'd make it a fairly large table top. 20x 36 inches would be my choice. I'll get to the stand in a bit.
Lay the plate on the top layer and draw the outline on the UNDERSIDE of the top layer. Use a jig saw to cut the hole out as close to the line as possible. Cut through the bottom. I suggest you put a layer of painter's tape on the top side to reduce splintering. Make sure the plate fits snugly in the opening so you can lift it out when you want to.
Now clamp the top to the bottom so the edges are lined up. Draw a line half an inch inside the cutout. This will give you an edge to hold the plate up. Cut that out. Glue and then put a couple of brads through so the two pieces stay aligned while the glue sets up. Give it a couple of hours.
You will really be happy you made this larger than the Bosch tables.
You have to adjust the height of the plate so it matches the top. Kreg makes some nice leveling screw devices for not much money, see picture, You level the plate so your workpiece doesn't catch on the edge of the table or plate as you work on it.
For a fence, you can do something very simple, A really straight 2x4 or 2x6 will do for a start. If you want to get fancy, you can use two very straight 3/4 inch pieces of hardwood, glued into an L shape with triangles cut to hold the fence at 90 degrees to the table. You need to cut an opening for a bit because there will be times that you will only have a part of the bit exposed. Routers throw off a tremendous amount of sawdust, so with the L shaped fence, you can use a dust port (see picture) from any of the woodworking specialty stores. This hooks up to a dust collection device.
A stand. Many folks just lay the top across some saw horses, but there are a thousand ways to hold that top. You can make or buy a stand. Harbor Freight has one that's pretty cheap, or you can make a simple stand. Or check second hand stores for a low dresser, or cut a tall one down. You are likely to have this for a number of years because it is so useful.
Final thought. Some folks apply a top laminate layer, which you can do at any time, but you can also just use pure paste wax (no additives) rub it in and polish the heck out of it. Not necessary, but it will protect the surface on those occasions when you run out of table space and use this top for glue ups. I've included a couple of extra pictures FYI, one is a side view of the lip formed by the second layer with an indicator of the leveling screw.
Another is a picture of a shop built fence. It is rather fancy, having a split front.
Hope this is helpful. It will be far easier to make than you think. Just make sure the ply is really flat, same with the fence.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
