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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I use to come to this forum years ago but recently restarted woodworking. I do have a question. I am using the Bosch 1617EVS plunge router to do a router table insert (off the Jessem template). I have the Bosch template guides but the bit I am using is only about 2 1/2 long and won't get much further than a 1/16" past the Jessem template. The Bosch adapter seems to limit depth. Are there router bits that are longer that might work? I also have a set of PC guides but they are too small for the Bosch without the adapter.

I am regretting getting the Bosch and might get rid of the system and go with another brand (maybe DW618pk).

Thanks in advance for any response.

Pete
 

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If I'm reading right, you could probably just use a bit with a bearing to follow the template. I don't think you get any advantage using a bushing. How thick is the template? Most templates are no more that 3/4 inches thick, so if you drop the router motor down low, with a bearing on a mortising bit, you should easily be able to cut a half inch rabbet to hold your table insert plate. You'll want to use plate height adjustment screws in the corners so you can get the plate even with the top. See Pix of example mortising bit and router plate leveler from Kreg. You shouldn't need more than an inch long bit. I did this recently with a 3/4 inch MDF template from Woodpecker and a trim router. The 1617 should easily handle removing 1/8th or so for four passes. Clamp the template down firmly or at least use double stick tape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It looks like if I use a pattern bit (I have a 1/2" from Rockler), I might make the opening about 1/4" too big (1/8" on all sides). I think this is why Jessem recommended the 3/4" OD bushing with 1/2" straight bit. I need to do this outside and it has been raining here for 3 straight days. Once it clears, I will do a test cut on scrap plywood with just the 1/2" pattern bit and try the router lift in that. If it is too big, then I will need to go back to the guide. If it fits, I will do it in the table saw insert.

Currently, the table saw insert is 2 MDFs laminated together. I am new here so I can't post a pix yet.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Pete
 

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Pete you can post pictures as long as they are from your hard drive and not a link to a photo sharing site. Use the Go Advanced posting option and below the text box look for Manage Attachments. If you need more help thatn that let me know.

There is one other method some members use to rout out the recess for a plate. They take the plate and lay it on the table where they want it and then take strips (wide enough for the router to sit on is best) and using double sided tape they stick them down against the side of the plate so that they form an outline the same size as the plate. Then remove the plate and use a mortising bit with bearing to rout the lip that the plate will sit on. Depending on the diameter of the bit you use and the radius of the plate corners you may have to trim them up a little. If you are lucky enough to have a bit with the same radius then it should drop right in after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you. I was temped to do that but then spent the money on the Jessem template and I really hate to waste the money spent. I saw a Bosch router bit that is 1/2" shank, 1/2" straight bit and 4.5" in overall length and was temped to get it to work with the Bosch template guides. It seems to be a little long but I am willing to try it. It was at Lowe's and is Item # 27834 Model # 85252MC. Not sure I want to spend more and even thought about cutting the template into 4 (1/8 blade on saw) and then putting it back together to use it with the pattern bit that I have. That might work too.
 

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A picture would really help. You are using some terms that apply to other equipment. Does your router template have a hole in the middle the size of your router plate? Or is it different? I can't quite make out exactly what you're trying to do. I have used the method illustrated below to rout out an opening for a plate. Four pieces of wood a quarter to half inch thick. Place the plate itself where you want it to go. Place the four pieces as shown and clamp the at the edges of the table. You can then use a bearing guided bit.

Mark out an opening about half an inch smaller than the plate on the wood. Cut that opening out with a jig saw before you try to cut the opening using the template.. That will allow you to cut with the mortising bit rather than trying to get a bit to plunge into the flat surface. As I think about it, I'm not sure if you've skipped that step of cutting out the smaller opening? If not, that's your problem, not the adapter.

Remove the adapter from the router, put in a mortising bit and (in 1/8th increments) rout out to a little deeper than the thickness of the plate. I added some very thin plywood between the plate and the four pieces to allow a little wiggle room to get the plate out easily. I strongly suggest you use the Kreg levelers.

You don't have to cut through the entire thickness of your table. Leaving a half inch lip for the plate to sit on will work just fine. Do use the Kreg levelers, you'll have a much easier time leveling the plate with the table top. I suggest you get a plate with the twist lock insert ring mechanism rather than the older kind that has multiple screws, which are annoying and easy to lose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info. I was able to make an adjustment, but the bit will be just short of the depth I need. If I had a slightly longer bit, I should be able to use the template. The only issue I am not sure about is at the max depth, the collet appears to touch the Bosch adapter/template guide. So, I switched to the PC adapter in the Bosch adapter (too many adapters). As far as the template, there is an approximate 1/8" void around the lift using the template (which is ¾” MDF from Jessem).
 

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Pete, I'm not sure of your experience level but the bit doesn't need to be (and shouldn't be) bottomed out in the collet. If you use a bearing bit, the bearing would have to be 1/4" (diameter) bigger than the bit, to work with that template. I would definitely try it out on a scrap first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Appreciate the response. Experience level with routers is just north of beginner. With table saw and other items 10+ years. I am just using a straight bit. I have a 1/2" pattern bit but not a larger bearing to use on it. If I did, I would definitely do it that way.

Do you have a source for bits with various size interchangable bearings?
 

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The ones that I've seen have a screw to lock the bearing to the shaft (see the pic in post #2 by Tom). So I believe you could use a 3/4 bearing on a 1/2 bit. I would try the guides if you can get the depth sorted out. I don't know the US suppliers but here's Lee Valley: Template Bits - Lee Valley Tools
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I found a bit that had a 3/4" bearing but the ID is too small to go onto the 1/2" pattern bit (from Rockler) that I have (the bearing was bottom mounted on another bit). It is a 1/4" shank. Rockler offers a 1/4"ID, 5/8"OD bearing replacement but that will only give me about 1/16" clearance if I do the math correctly. Still looking for a 3/4". I will check out Lee Valley Tools too. I have used them in the past. We also have a local True Valley that carries some bearing, so I will check them out too. Otherwise, I will order one.
 

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Hi again.

Try this. Get a half inch grommet which will be about an eighth of an inch thick, put it in the collet first, then bottom the the bit on the grommet. That might give you just enough reach to finish the cut. Are you trying to cut all the way through your base? Is the base single or double thickness. I always prefer double, ply on top, MDF below. That gives you an inch and a half total thickness, and you don't want the whole opening to be that depth, only about half an inch. With most mounting plates, that gives you 3/16ths of height adjustment space, which is the job of the height adjusters.

That means you want to cut out an opening half an inch all around, inside the outline of the plate. That gives you a shelf to keep the plate from falling through. Sounds like you are still trying to make the cut with the same setup. A bit like trying to pound a nail with screwdriver. With a 3/4 inch mortising bit and bearing, AND NO ADAPTERS OR OTHER ACCESSORIES, you should be able to make the "shelf" I've described.

Cut the smaller opening with a jig saw, then cut the shelf using the template. You may be able to find the mortising bit at a big box store, or order it from Freud on Amazon or at Home Depot online. I think you have over-complicated this project. Theoretically, you could make the cut the way you're trying, but it will be very difficult to get it right. The bushing offsets the straight bit so it will cut inside the line of the pattern, and the adapters restrict how far you can reach with that kind of bit. A double whammy so to speak.

Many of us have made or adapted our router tables using the mortising type bit only. A straight bit with bearing is almost the same as a mortising bit, but doesn't flatten the bottom quite as well. A straight bit without a bearing and trying to use a bushing, will give you the fits you're experiencing.

You only want to make that shelf (a rabbet actually) slightly deeper than the thickness of the plate. The height adjusting gadgets will let you raise the plate even with the top.

Below is a rough diagram (cross section) of what I'm talking about. The big arrow represents the height adjustment screw.

Here's a little video of someone doing this. Note that he is NOT wearing a mask-bad bad bad. But he is making the rabbit and using simple lag bolts through the four corners of the rabbit, on which the plate sits.
 

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I found a bit that had a 3/4" bearing but the ID is too small to go onto the 1/2" pattern bit (from Rockler) that I have (the bearing was bottom mounted on another bit). It is a 1/4" shank. Rockler offers a 1/4"ID, 5/8"OD bearing replacement but that will only give me about 1/16" clearance if I do the math correctly. Still looking for a 3/4". I will check out Lee Valley Tools too. I have used them in the past. We also have a local True Valley that carries some bearing, so I will check them out too. Otherwise, I will order one.
Rub collars can give you extra options. They are often used in rabbeting sets. might be a little too big but you could go to a larger bit. https://www.amazon.ca/Woodstock-W11...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0000DD1NJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks. Looks like Lowe's has a bit that will work with the PC style adapter. Item # 26018 Model # 85242MC Bosch 1/2-in Carbide-Tipped Straight Bit.

Not trying to complicate it anymore than I already have. Probably won't be able to do this until the weather clears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The bit wasn't at Lowe's and the one they had was the same length as I have. So I decided on using a 3/4" bearing on a 1/2" bit and do it like suggested earlier. I had to order them, no one local had them. Thanks for your help and I will post pictures once I get it done.
 

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I did mine like this but put a rect. piece ,same thickness as the outside pieces inside to get support on both sides of the bit. I also glued up several thicknesses of paper about 3/8 inches long ( 2 on one side and 2 on the 90 deg. side) to make speed bumps. These pieces cause the insert cutout to be bigger than the plate except at the bump locations. This makes the plate fit tight but easy to take out. I hope this explanation makes sense to you. I was referring to DesertRatToms pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Still need to route out a t-track but otherwise the insert is in. Router got away in one small spot but I can live with it. Still couldn't get deep enough so I had to add both bearings and that didn't leave much in the collet. Also working with MDF, so RZ Mask was on. Table has a Philadelphia Flyers (orange and black) theme (and goes well with the Ridgid colors). Thanks for all the help. Did I mention that I hate MDF?



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