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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just a easy way to put in box joints, in 1/4" to 1/2" thick stock.
You can do 9/16" to 1 1/4" thick stock by making the Blind Type Box Joint.

All you need to do is clamp up all 4 parts as one , also clamp a 3/4" MDF block on the back side of the pack,this will help support the stock and stop the rip out when you come out of the pass.
If you want to made a box with 3 1/2" sides, just flip it over and reclamp the stock and move the bit up to reline the 1st. slots then make one more pass on both ends.
NOTE*** If you FAN the bits (blades) ,it will take some of the load off the router and less work for the router bit (flat cut) to do and the cut will be a bit cleaner, I forgot to do this in the snapshots, sorry :)

The pictures below are 1/4" thick floor stock, I had left over from a floor job.
Once your have both ends done take it back to the table saw and resize the stock if needed , then glue the box up, then glue on a bottom and use a trim bit to clean the joints and the bottom edge.
You can also glue on the top the same way then just split the box with a slot cutter bit. (3/32 slot cutter)

You will also see below a easy to make Frame Clamps for picture frames or boxes, we all can buy frames clamps but you can make your own with some 1/4-20 threaded rod,wing nuts,and some blocks of hardwood, you can make them with 6ft.rod or longer if you needed . (up to 12ft long)
The rods I keep on hand are, 12",24",36,48",72" long some get cut down if I need them for other projects :) :). LOL.

Bit(s) from ▼
ABout 1/3 of the going price. (Ebay)
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-PC-1-2-SH-5-S...emZ130091985453QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_windo.html

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks
George and Gary

The clamps do come in handy and are easy ones to make :).

The router bit is a quick way to make small boxes and drawers, I made a Sand Paper box that has 8 draws in it,makes it easy to find the sand paper and was a fun project to make, it started off with the wife, she was going to get rid of some In and Out boxes that sit on the office desk,the old wood type :).
I made a quick frame for the ones she had and it worked out so well I made one more set for my son, now I use the bit all the time for small boxes..

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Hi Corey

borgs ???? not sure what that is

Threaded rod, from HD,Lowes,Ace Hardware, But I like to buy it a one of the many fastners outlets in Denver, A & I Bolt,Fastners Inc.,Cent. Fastners, etc. I'm a cheap SOB and I can buy it at almost the same price as HD,etc. can buy it at, 1/4-20 x 6ft at 1.08ea. a stick and the T-nuts at $3.60per.100.
Fastners are such a small item but it can add up to many dollars over the year.
I try and buy all the fastners I need the same way, like wood screws etc.
HD and others mark them up by 600 % or more most of the time but they one sell one or two at at time but I always buy them by box of 100 or so.
Take a 6 x 1 1/4 sq.drive pocket screws , $1.20per 100 or 8.60per 1000.
So you can see you can save a great deal buy buying them right from a fastner supply house/outlet. :)
At one time I got most of them from a place in Chicago called Industrial Fastners Supply Inc. at 1/10 of the normal i.e. 6 x 1 1/4 pocket hole screws at $1.70per 1000 but the high cost of freight stop that. :(

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Hi Bob

It will do it all in a pass or two,make the a box parts in 2 mins. or less. :)

If you Note the fence I use it has a hole just for the bit, it's a safe way to run stock by without falling into the black hole behind most bits on the router tables it's not a must for this type of bit but it lets the stock stay sq. to the fence when you pass the stock by the bit.
If you don't have or use the T & G slide in insert like I do you can
clamp a 2 x 4 to the back side of the pack,this will help support the stock on the pass and keep you from falling into the black hole behind the bit plus it will add mass to the pack and you always have some of the stock riding on the fence.
So to say on the fence,on the bit,off on the out feed of the fence,some part of the pack is always on the fence,plus I use push block to pass the pack by the bit, the one you see in the snapshots with the saw handle keeps my hand up and away from the bit.
Note***when you rip the stock for the box parts cut a pair that are 3/8" wider then you need, this is because you need the offset when you put them together plus the bit will put in a 1/2" deep slot so you will need to trim some on the ends off after the pass, so to say cut the box parts 1/2" longer than you need for the box.

Also if you want to make a lid for the box, make one more set and after you have it made chuck up a 1/4" bit and put a rabbit on the inside of the top edge of the parts and a rabbit on the outside of the bottom parts about 1/2 of the thickess of the stock.




Bj :)

Bob N said:
BJ.....

That is one wicked looking bit. Sure makes the job look easier.

Thanks for the tip.
 

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bobj3 said:
If you Note the fence I use it has a hole just for the bit, it's a safe way to run stock by without falling into the black hole behind most bits on the router tables it's not a must for this type of bit but it lets the stock stay sq. to the fence when you pass the stock by the bit.

Bj :)
Good point Bob, never thought about that.

Corey
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thanks BORG huummm now I know :)

Threaded rod ,I use it all the time :), I never have the right size of bolts so I just cut off some rod put on some super glue (thick) put on a nut ,steak the nut and I have the right size,I also use it all the time for jigs clamps and put on some sq. nuts and I have the right size t-slot-screws that I need . :)

Bj :)

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challagan said:
Bob, Borg = Big Orange Retail Giant = Home Depot
Blue Borg = Lowes :)

Thanks for the info, never used the threaded rod before.. didn't know how easy they were to find or not. Looks like I can probably get them at Ace or HD,

Thanks!

Corey
 

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BJ, many members might not know what you mean about staking the rod. Once the threaded rod is in position inside the nut you place a center punch in the middle and hit it a good whack. This causes the rod to swell inside the nut and more or less locks it into position. This is a great method if you are in a hurry to use a bolt. I like to leave the rod about a thread down inside the nut and use a Mig welder to fill/weld the parts together. Great info BJ. How many sizes of threaded rod do you keep on hand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hi Mike

I keep 2-56 to 1-8 "on hand in 3ft. the norm.
Plus some blank metric rod when I need to make a metric one up.
I should say 2-56,4-40,6-32,8-32,10-24.10-32,12-24,1/4-20,1/4-28,5/16-18,5/16-24,
3/8-16,3/8-24,7/16-18,1/2-13,1/2-20,9/16-12,5/8-11.5/8-18,
3/4-10.3/4-16,1-8.

I take a center punch and stake the rod in 4 spots on the inside of the nut on the top side of the rod,but I do mig weld the ones 3/8 -1/2 and bigger.

All kinds of rod from:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDF...772646&PMITEM=06057095&PMCTLG=00&PMT4TP=*LTIP

Bj :)


Mike said:
BJ, many members might not know what you mean about staking the rod. Once the threaded rod is in position inside the nut you place a center punch in the middle and hit it a good whack. This causes the rod to swell inside the nut and more or less locks it into position. This is a great method if you are in a hurry to use a bolt. I like to leave the rod about a thread down inside the nut and use a Mig welder to fill/weld the parts together. Great info BJ. How many sizes of threaded rod do you keep on hand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Router :)

I have made many and the walls are holding many of them and the back room and under the bench and the garage attic :) :)

I do like jigs :),,, they make things easy and I can do it over and over the same way once I have the jig made.
I'm always trying to reinvent the wheel...or come up with some new way and safe way and easy way to do the same thing,I wiil sometimes spend more time making the jig than the project.... :) :) I have the error built in, "the grass is always greener on the other side" ... :)
make it simple .....
1. easy to understand, deal with, use, etc.: a simple matter; simple tools.
2. not elaborate or artificial; plain: a simple style.
3. not ornate or luxurious; unadorned
4. unaffected; unassuming; modest: a simple manner.
5. not complicated: a simple design.
6. not complex or compound; single.

Bj :)
 

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What great solutions, sandpaper storage and use of box bit on thin stock. This would make turning out light drawers to house a DVD collection inside a cabinet. Heavier stock reduces the number of drawers and DVDs that I can fit in each existing cabinet. Great where weight is not an issue. I see some projects and a new bit in my future. Is that a Sommerfield bit? What is the model number and is there a setup block available for it? I also noticed you have the Sommerfield Yellow set up jig, how do you like it?
 

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That box joint bit looks like the ticket for knocking out a lot of drawers, jewelry boxes, and the like.

I have been eyeing it myself and was wondering if it would be a lot faster than using the Incra. I am betting it is.

Thanks for the review.
 

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a very good thread worth revisiting....
 
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