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Discussion Starter #1
Just built two new router table tops with accompanying fences - one to fit my PC 690 base (mounted without an insert plate directly to the bottom of the table), and one to fit my PC 3hp Speedmatic, using a cast aluminum insert plate (from Rockler).
Having decided to replace my old router table frame and legs with an enclosed cabinet on casters (for router and bits storage), I'm faced with a decision on the proper working height.
My old table frame, with top, was 37" high, and proved to be a very comfortable working height. However, I'm now hoping to use the new router table cabinet with top as an outfeed table for my saw, which is 34" high.
I"ve seen Bob and Rick's table, and it seems to be fairly high, to provide a comfortable working height.
Will I find a 34" working height to be too low? Hard to control pieces past the bits? (especially using cabinet rail/stile bits)?
If my working height needs to be greater than 34" I can design the cabinet to serve as an outfeed table at that height, and provide a riser type frame that the router table tops can be mounted to, when the cabinet is used as a router table.

Looking for your input and suggestions guys. Thanks in advance.
Gerry
 

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The Router Guys
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Our tables are 41" high. The best height is 5 to 7" off end of your bent elbow to the table top.
 

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Out of a hand book I have wookbenches are at 36 and router tables at 40"-41". Please also look at:
www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=210
for some other discussion on table heights and if you want do a search on "heights" to see a few other comments within the forums.

Ed
 

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Bob and Rick, is that 5-7" above or below the elbow?
I've never noticed any problems with my table but just measures my elbow and it's 40" off the ground.
My table is 34" which makes it 6" below the elbow so if it should be below then mine is at a perfect height.
 

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Gerry, do you really want to move your router set up every time you need to use your table as an outfeed platform? Since you have designed two tops to fit this stand would it be more practical to design additional tops for sanding, maybe mounting other power tools and then building a rack to hold the different tops? (ala Tool Dock) Just some thoughts. Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the ideas. At this point I've decided to build a cabinet for routers and bit storage, which will also accomodate the two separate tops. It won't be used as an outfeed table, because after thinking about it, I"m comfortable with a 40-41" working height suggested by our "experts" (thanks guys).
 

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My router table will be docked next to my SCMS, so the two have to be the same height, as is my bandsaw (a large re-saw unit, so it is lower to the ground than most band saws usually are).

If the router table is on it's own, the
5 to 7" off end of your bent elbow to the table top
is great, it takes into consideration how tall you are and how long or short your arms are.

Cheers!
 

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I will make this easier for everyone.

I recommend belly button height for a router table.

Disclaimer: You must deduct for "outies".
 

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Rick
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Gerry I have the exact same problem and I was going to build a router table that has adjustable height as I need just under 34" to make it work as an out feed table , but I think that's going to feel uncomfortable for routing .
But now I'm debating to build a 36" dual router table and instead build an adjustable height work bench / out feed table/ assembly table . It's sure going to get crowded in my garage though :(

This is example of an idea . I was going to kibosh the motor and use a cordless drill to change the height instead . I have bought 1" threaded rod and the sprockets already . Would have preferred acme linear rods though but there very expensive and tough to order here


 

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Theo
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Did you guys notice the date of the original post? You take two guys, same height, and their router tables are apt to be at different heights. It's what is comfortable for you to use, bottom line.
 

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Rick
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I saw the date. I had ran across a similar discussion on another forum and decided to provide my "scientific" approach to router table design.
Good call Brad . And your input is always appreciated :)
 
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