Half lap joints always look good on sign posts, IMO. I recently built a deck out of Cypress, about as weather proof as you can get, should last two life times, also nice looking grain.

 

I like the hide a key idea,might be able to inset a key box in the post.

As far as material goes, it all depends where you live and how much moiture and insects are in the soil. Cedar is good,better if treated below grade.I have heard that Cypress has very good weather resistance.

Pouring concrete dry bag mix around the post in the hole works too and let the moisture in the ground migrate into the mix and set it up over time, I have seen that done too.

Lap joints as previously mentioned are a very good way to go, like is shown in your picture.

Good luck,
Herb

 

I think you could build a small drawer/box that would slide into the short butt end of the cross member to hide keys in. You could make the square or rectangular hole the same way as a large mortise and the box that would slide into it would have an end grain that you would cut off the cross piece before you make the mortise/hole cut. You would probably have to incorporate a spring open latch (one that you have to push first to get it to spring open) or some arrangement to extract the box from the hole as there couldn't be any apparent hints of the hidden box on the butt end. This would probably hide much easier than something in the post.

Dennis

 

I was thinking that another way to hide a key and perhaps easier to construct would be a simple hole in the top of the post to hold the key(s) and a removable cap that would cover the top of the post and the hole and appear as a decorative cap for the post.

Dennis

 

You have some good ideas Dennis, I like both of those.

Herb

 

Thanks for the thoughts guys! The area would be upstate new york, around Albany. I'm not too concerned about insects (should I be?) but I'll look into cedar and cypress for weather proof material. If I wanted to use the same wood for the sign itself, how difficult are those to work with while routing?


I did think about putting the hide a key into the top with a decorative cap. My concern was if the cap was removed and replaced often enough it would become loose, and perhaps blowing off in the wind or something. It might not be an issue, but it's also not the most clever way. I do like the spring latch idea, and pre-cutting some matching end grain is brilliant!

My initial thought was to somehow make the crossbar piece slide through the upright and lock in. Then I could put the hide a key spot inside the intersection. That would be completely concealed, but probably not very feasible in reality.

 

You might be able to slide it thru the post and lock it with a wedge like a trestle on a trestle table.
Use Tite-bond III glue for exterior applications. I would use some fasteners along with the glue,i.e. screws,nails etc. recess and plug the holes?
Cedar and Cypress route very well. Wear a mask the fine dust will get you.

Herb

 

Can you hold a half-lap joint together solely with wood glue? For that matter, I've never used wood glue for an exterior project. Is that not recommended? The part I don't like in my example photo is the obvious bolt head.

 

Interesting Herb. The wedge itself could contain the hide-a key. And it would be more decorative then a simple bolt on.

I've always used Gorilla wood glue, which says it's okay for outdoors. I'm not sure I believe them. I'm almost out anyway, I'll pick up some tite bond III this time.

 

Further to Herb's comment re concrete. You must isolate it from the wood!
Wrap the post base with Tyvek, poly, tarpaper...whatever. Concrete should never come into contact with wood; it'll wreck the wood in short order.
The topic comes up frequently and the usual reasoning has to do with excess moisture in the contact areas but i personally feel that it (probably) has more to do with the extremely high Ph of the concrete. It destroys leather work boots if you don't wash it off thoroughly and immediately. Stuffs corrosive!

 

Good point Dan
Herb

 

It's more properly called a 'cross lap' joint you don't need glue...it ain't goin' nowhere! Wood treatment on the cut portions would however be highly recommended.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=half...pLgoAS18YD4CQ&ved=0CB4QsAQ&biw=1120&bih=537#tbm=isch&q=cross+lap+joint+pictures