Router Forums banner

1 - 20 of 120 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Building cordless drill , air nailer storage cabinet .

Guys I really liked Mikes shelf that he built to hold his drills and air nailers . I have gotten my own version started but I am changing it up a bit as I am putting two shallow drawers underneath to hold all the differant air nails and screw driver bits .

So I did rabbet joints on the lower and top pieces , and dadoed a slot for the middle piece .In this pic the bottom is to the left and the top to the right , just to avoid confusion .
It hasn't been glued yet as I have more slots to dado in .


My mistake is I really should have done the rabbets on the sides as now I'm going to have one hell of a time dadoing 1/4" slots on the upper and lower parts to put dividers in and get the measurements even because the top and middle sections are differant lengths when disassembled.
Originally I was going to rabbet the sides but I couldn't afford to loose any height as I cut them to short .
This is how it sits . The narrow part is the bottom for the drawers



I still have to dado in the slot to add a divider between the drawers , which is still going to be a careful cut because of them being differant lengths .

I'm thinking that because it's going to be a pain to dado in all the upper and lower slots for 1/4 dividers that maybe I should go with 1/2" dividers instead and install them with pocket screws . This way all I need is a spacer to hold each vertical divider and just screw them in . That's assuming there's enough room for the drill to install the pocket screws which I believe there will be
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Actually I just had another thought . Instead of using a dado blade on the table saw to make the slots for the dividers , assemble the cabinet and then use my router to make the slots . All I would need is a spacer for the router to sit against and guide it

Sure as heck it will get away on me though :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Should be an easy workaround Rick. Make a spacer the width of the difference between the shelf width and the cabinet bottom width at one side. Make a dado on the shelf bottom referenced to the fence, then use the spacer between the shelf and the fence to account for the offset. Use your miter gauge and make the corresponding dado in the shelf bottom. Move fence and repeat.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Should be an easy workaround Rick. Make a spacer the width of the difference between the shelf width and the cabinet bottom width at one side. Make a dado on the shelf bottom referenced to the fence, then use the spacer between the shelf and the fence to account for the offset. Use your miter gauge and make the corresponding dado in the shelf bottom. Move fence and repeat.
Thanks Jeff as that's a good idea ;)

I can hardly wait to complete this . I'm really looking forward to having a place where I can always find air nails and screw driver bits . I'm going to make some half lap dividers inside the drawers and fill it with all the common lengths of air nails . I bought a husky plastic tool box but it didn't like the weight of the air nails and kinda bent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
I'm right behind you Rick, I can't wait to get this project started in my shop and I really like what you've done so far. Every little mistake you make now, I won't have to repeat when I start mine. Now I've just got to re-surface 300sq' of deck, build a carport over the 12x24 pad that was poured behind my garage today, and it's on to laying down french cleats. Bet I'm done before your insulation is in:grin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,921 Posts
Rick, if you lay your boards on a bench you can line them up and use a straight edge to make your dadoes with your router. Imagine getting a tip like that on a website like this; what is the world coming to?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Rick, if you lay your boards on a bench you can line them up and use a straight edge to make your dadoes with your router. Imagine getting a tip like that on a website like this; what is the world coming to?
Mike I have Festool track to but I bought the wrong parts and I can't get the router to attach to it yet . I know I don't need track but I want to try it onetime .
I'm going to use the TS for now I think
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
Rick,

If there's enough distance between the top and shelf for your router, adding the grooves for the dividers is easy as long as the back isn't permanently attached yet (I'm assuming this from your post). Make an accurate T-Square out of a couple of scraps, set the base against the edge of a scrap board and rout through the end - this will give you an exact location for the groove and, as you're using (I think) 1/4" hardboard, a standard 1/4" bit will work. Lay out the location of the dividers on the top and shelf, set the T-Square in place with the edge of the slot lined up with the mark, clamp the end so it doesn't move and rout your slot. With no back in the cabinet, you can flip the T-Square end for end and rout from either side as you get close to the sides. As far as the dividers for the drawers in the lower area, make a block of the appropriate width, slide the divider up against it to fix the location and nail it in place - it's just a shop cabinet, a little glue and some finish nails is all you need. All my original shop wall cabinets are built with the tops,, bottoms and shelves glued into dadoes/rabbets and held with narrow crown staples and they've held up for 20+ years - wish I'd put adjustable shelves in them now but that's another story. Mostly use pocket holes now but still use dadoes and staples for a cabinet that's a little unwieldy.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,468 Posts
These 2 simple boxes hold my remaining roofers and sidewall guns. As time passed and fewer roofs and siding jobs came in I sold one of each. They went into the boxes and my shop around 06 when I averaged a roof or sidewall job a yr.

See the little white dot on the roofer's inlet? I wish I could remember where I got them, (maybe the repair shop); each gun had a crap cap. Outside of doing many of my own repairs I believe they were the main reason I had such low and few repair bills. Most of the caps had rings that prevented them from getting lost until they broke and got lost. If the gun wasn't hosed the cap was on, before the gun got hosed the hose was popped to release any crap in the female connector. These guns were bought between 1985 and 87, I used both recently reroofing my porch and sidewall repair above the new roof, 30 yrs ain't bad.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,651 Posts
......... held with narrow crown staples ........
Thanks Tom, I'm looking to make one of these as I now have a need, and I had totally forgotten the staples my nailer can put in even though I move them every time I reach for the brads! That's a blonde moment ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Rick,

If there's enough distance between the top and shelf for your router, adding the grooves for the dividers is easy as long as the back isn't permanently attached yet (I'm assuming this from your post). Make an accurate T-Square out of a couple of scraps, set the base against the edge of a scrap board and rout through the end - this will give you an exact location for the groove and, as you're using (I think) 1/4" hardboard, a standard 1/4" bit will work. Lay out the location of the dividers on the top and shelf, set the T-Square in place with the edge of the slot lined up with the mark, clamp the end so it doesn't move and rout your slot. With no back in the cabinet, you can flip the T-Square end for end and rout from either side as you get close to the sides. As far as the dividers for the drawers in the lower area, make a block of the appropriate width, slide the divider up against it to fix the location and nail it in place - it's just a shop cabinet, a little glue and some finish nails is all you need. All my original shop wall cabinets are built with the tops,, bottoms and shelves glued into dadoes/rabbets and held with narrow crown staples and they've held up for 20+ years - wish I'd put adjustable shelves in them now but that's another story. Mostly use pocket holes now but still use dadoes and staples for a cabinet that's a little unwieldy.

Tom
Tom nothing is glued yet , it's just propped up to see how it all fits so it shouldn't be to hard to do on the TS . I think pocket screws would work too but I like the idea of dadoing slots for 1/4" dividers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
Tom nothing is glued yet , it's just propped up to see how it all fits so it shouldn't be to hard to do on the TS . I think pocket screws would work too but I like the idea of dadoing slots for 1/4" dividers
If the cabinet is not glued, clamp it square and layout lines in the top and shelf for the 1/4" dadoes, this way they will line up. For just a 1/4" deep dado, it might be an idea to cut extra slots closer together so that you can move the dividers to suit any change in your storage requirements - easier now than finding that the new super-duper whatever that you just bought is 1/8" wider than the divider spacing. Slots on 1" or 1-1/2" centers would give you flexibility for the future without being overkill. Use the router and T-Square, and you can use it to cut dadoes for the drawer divider - same procedure, put layout lines on both edges, carry them over to the face and cut the dado in two passes.

Tom
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,771 Posts

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Rick, I think it is time for you to build an exact width dado jig. You have the need. Build it wide enough so both pieces of the cabinet will fit. Then all you do is make your dado cutting both sides at the same time.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/49738-exact-width-dado-jig.html
That's a pretty cool idea Mike . I may build one in the future when I have some extra time .

Guys I've got a concern . I read where a guy installed drawer guides and I never thought of this but if you put the screws in the same hole on each drawer the screws will hit each other .
I have to look at mine , but you would assume they have two screw holes side by side on each rail in order for this not to happen . Otherwise you'd have to stagger them
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,771 Posts
Guys I've got a concern . I read where a guy installed drawer guides and I never thought of this but if you put the screws in the same hole on each drawer the screws will hit each other .
I have to look at mine , but you would assume they have two screw holes side by side on each rail in order for this not to happen . Otherwise you'd have to stagger them
I don't have any idea what you are talking about. What kind of drawer hardware are you using?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
Put the adjacent slides at different heights. Put a 1/4" shim on the floor of the cabinet and then a strip to set the slides at a specific height. Bolt the slides in to the sides, slide the drawer part and then the drawer, sitting on the 1/4" shim. Pull the drawer and it's slide partway out so you can get a couple of screws into the drawer. Then pull it all the way out and put the rest of the screws in - just use a different width strip for the second drawer. The photos show me installing the slides in the drill press cabinet - a different shim was used for the top two drawers so that the drawer fronts would all be the same height.

Tom
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Well I screwed up on mitering slots for the spacers on the first attempt , so I abandoned that cabinet altogether and built another .
But this time I did a rabbet joint on the sides as it helped with measuring up the middle for that spacer where the drawers go .
This is the rear view . I mitered out the perimeter of the upper section for the 1/2 ply back to drop in , but I was going to leave the bottom open as there's drawers in there and I don't why they would need to be closed .

I must have spent over a half hour with my dado blade and for some reason I had one hell of a time getting it set for the 1/4 ply I have on the first cabinet , but It was either to tight and after I add a blade and use its full adjustment it ended up to loose . I'm going to use 1/2 ply instead and just use pocket holes .
This isn't glued and screwed yet , just laying together . How I hate doing things twice :(

 
  • Like
Reactions: old55
1 - 20 of 120 Posts
Top