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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys I'm trying to organize my garage so I can actually find something , and I was going to build some drawers underneith my work bench and didn't want to get to fancy or time consuming . I bought the sliders years ago so I have them , guess I need to pick a material and then find out if there's any trade secrets to installing sliders .

Watched a YouTube video and he had the complete slider attached to the cabinet walls . Then he placed a temporary spacer on the floor and put the drawer on the spacers , then pulled out the movable part of the slider out that attaches to the drawer , and put the first screw in the side of the drawer . Then pulled it out further and got the next screw in . Then completely removed the rails of the slider that stay on the drawer part and finished screwing .
He repeated this and put another spacer on the bottom drawer and repeated .

It seemed like a good trick but maybe there's a better way to install drawer guides . I believe there 1/2" wide so if the drawer is 16" wide you would build the surrounding side walls 17" deep .
I seen a jig for this made by Kreg at Windsor a plywood but have no idea if it's necessary.
I figured just get the first ones lined up then put a piece of wood as a jig to stack the next sliders , well according to how deep the drawers actually are . Was going to make the top ones not very tall as I want to store slim things in them for calibration etc.

Any ideas before I proceed would great .

I thinking 3/4" plywood good one side for the drawers and sides of the cabinet , and maybe 1/4" MDF bottoms ?
 

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MDF has almost no structural strength in tension; compression is good.
That translates to a poor choice for horizontal panels with vertical loading, especially in thinner forms like 1/4".
What'll likely happen, if you put any significant weight in the drawers, is that they'll sag over time, especially if the perimeter isn't glued into the drawer sides.
Unlike lumber, and plywood to some extent, MDF won't spring back.
 

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Just a word of caution...you can always add a shim to a drawer that is too narrow, but you are SOL if it is too tight. That is why I like face frames.

I attach the cabinet side of the glide to the inside of the face frame opening. Then I attach the rear mount to the back. I found it is much easier to adjust those rear brackets than try to adjust the slide against the side wall.

Here's an example. My sweetie is attaching the drawer slide to the back, which I had reinforced with 3/4 inch plywood.

Part II

As far as mounting the drawer slide on the drawer, I don't sweat it at all. I mount the slide flush with the drawer bottom. Easy peasy. The way the full extension drawer slides I use ar built, that will automatically raise the drawer to clear the face frame rail.

Lemme see if I can find a close up.

BTW, those are the 28 inch drawers we put in the corner base cabinets. They work great.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks , I seen those pics before Mike and had no idea what you referenced to in the rear of the cabinet before screwing them down ? I Assumed you had cut a piece of wood to act as a template/ guide to figure out the distances .

I actually never noticed that you could attach sliders from the back like that . Gotta check mine I guess if I can find them in the mess and see if there the same
 

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MDF has almost no structural strength in tension; compression is good.
That translates to a poor choice for horizontal panels with vertical loading, especially in thinner forms like 1/4".
What'll likely happen, if you put any significant weight in the drawers, is that they'll sag over time, especially if the perimeter isn't glued into the drawer sides.
Unlike lumber, and plywood to some extent, MDF won't spring back.
Totally agree with Dan on the drawer bottoms.

As far as the opening for the drawers go, look at the slide specs. They will give you the spacing of the drawer in the opening. It will probably require at least 1/2" + 1/16" for clearances but will depend on the maker.

For a typical drawer in a shop cabinet I usually go 19-20" if I can and use a 18" full extension slide. If you want to easily get to the back of the drawer when it is pulled out, use full extension slides and use the longest that will fit the drawer.

Bill
 
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Thanks , I seen those pics before Mike and had no idea what you referenced to in the rear of the cabinet before screwing them down ? I Assumed you had cut a piece of wood to act as a template/ guide to figure out the distances .

I actually never noticed that you could attach sliders from the back like that . Gotta check mine I guess if I can find them in the mess and see if there the same
You have to have a bracket for the back of the slide. They are fairly cheap, usually only a couple of bucks for a pair. If you are not attaching the slides to a panel/divider, etc. then you will have to attach to the back of the cabinet like in the photos and will require the brackets.

Bill
 
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Discussion Starter #7
You have to have a bracket for the back of the slide. They are fairly cheap, usually only a couple of bucks for a pair. If you are not attaching the slides to a panel/divider, etc. then you will have to attach to the back of the cabinet like in the photos and will require the brackets.

Bill
Wow there's so many things I wasn't aware of , Thanks ;)

I kind of like the way Mike did his because it saves me having sides to attach the sliders to . Gotta rethink this .

I should post a pic of what I'm up against
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And you'll need the lovely and highly skilled Mrs. Stringer to install them.
Rick, neither you nor I, are squeaking into a 28" cabinet! :grin:
Good point , that never occurred to me :lol:
 

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And you'll need the lovely and highly skilled Mrs. Stringer to install them.
Rick, neither you nor I, are squeaking into a 28" cabinet! :grin:
Ah! Better add me to that list....

Bill
 

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If your drawers weren't too wide, 1/4 inch plywood will be good enough. For wide ones, I would go with 1/2 inch thick plywood.

The drawers in my work bench are 3/4 inch white pine w/ 1/4 inch bottoms. Just simple rabbet joints and glue.
The big drawer is loaded with stuff. I used 3/4 plywood I had on hand and 1/2 inch ply for the bottom. It is mounted with full extension ball brg drawer slides. For that drawer, I measured the width of the opening, then built the drawer to fit minus 1 1/16th inch for the slides.

Hmmm...that reminds me of something. I still haven't made a drawer front for that drawer! :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I wasn't BS'n about the mess lol but here is the bench I want to mount drawers under . Was going to go right across and maybe 3 deep . There's no back or sides so I have to figure out what the best way to attach this is . Plus will need dividers between the drawers to support the sliders unless I put a wood backing on and attach the sliders as Mike and his wife did



 

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Ok I wasn't BS'n about the mess lol but here is the bench I want to mount drawers under . Was going to go right across and maybe 3 deep . There's no back or sides so I have to figure out what the best way to attach this is . Plus will need dividers between the drawers to support the sliders unless I put a wood backing on and attach the sliders as Mike and his wife did



Just add some stiles to the front and back. You'll have to add a rail (front) to the legs, add two stiles (front and back) between the legs and attach the slides to the legs and the stiles.

No need for dividers or panels.

I see 6-9 drawers in your future!

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bill are stiles the front things that Mike has in his first pictures . I sort of assumed I see to put a board across the bottom for support . Im glad I posted this as it clueless how to proceed . As you can see underneith I have a drawer from a previous attempt on the other work bench that I removed . Nothing to fancy joint wise but it worked

Ok stiles would just be vertical posts in the front and rear to secure to ?
 

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Bill are stiles the front things that Mike has in his first pictures . I sort of assumed I see to put a board across the bottom for support . Im glad I posted this as it clueless how to proceed . As you can see underneith I have a drawer from a previous attempt on the other work bench that I removed . Nothing to fancy joint wise but it worked

Ok stiles would just be vertical posts in the front and rear to secure to ?
Rails run horizontal and stiles run vertical. A couple of 2x4 would serve as the stiles. just attach the edges to the bench top and the bottom rail so you have a flat face to attach the slides to.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Rails run horizontal and stiles run vertical. A couple of 2x4 would serve as the stiles. just attach the edges to the bench top and the bottom rail so you have a flat face to attach the slides to.

Bill
Thanks Bill . As you can tell I'm almost a total newbie at certain things :|
 

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