Have You thought of any alternative attachment thoughts? Would it work to cut two half circles out of 1/2 in plywood? If You attached 1/2 in. collars underneath the router which are attached with screws from the top, You could have a bit longer screw holding the router in place, and add strengh to the router table set-up!Thanx for the advice. I have gone ahead and constructed a table of sorts. But I am left with this prob:the insert I used was as thin as possible so as to allow a reasonable amount of bit to protrude thru the hole.( 1/4" ply)...anything thinner might have been unable to take the weight of the router. But because of the thinness I now find that I dare not attempt to counter sink the supporting screws, and have ended up with a couple of bolt heads obstructing the smooth surface of the top.Is there a solution that will still permit the bit to protrude sufficiently to do it's job? Thane in advance and fir the kind welcome.
Although I write this post in June, and you started the thread in Feb., please allow me to welcome you to the Router Forums, the most open, friendly, informative woodworking site on the internet.I am totally inexperienced in using my Ryobi plunge router,RE180PL1,:bad: which is too difficult to control, so I need to build a very basic router table. Nothing fancy.Can anyone help with a very simple router table plan? Please.
Stan, Please allow me to interrupt. If you were to use an Oak-Park type router table, the router is attached to a removable baseplate, so changing depth adjustment requires only that you pull the router-baseplate out of the table. If you have access to the Router Workshop TV series, or any of the videos, you will see the process many times. What router do you use?Firstly, welcome FDS to the forum.
Gav, like FDS I am also new to routing so I was interested in your simple design for the router table. But tell me, does this mean climbing under the table to make the depth adjustments at each stage?