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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What’s up guys I am new here . Looking to see if you guys could help me out. I am looking to round the new rubrails
On my boat I did. From my research it looks like I would need a round over bit for the top and an inverted round over bit for the bottom. They are 3/4 thick. What size round over bits should I buy?

this is the rails now. And under is what is like them to look like.
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in your other post, you were looking for your first router - now wanting to route the rub rail.
so I am guessing you have limited experience with routers ?
my question is the raised portion on top of the gunwale - are you wanting to round over the part that the arrow is pointing to? doing the top is doable: but rounding the bottom can be very problematic if there is not enough room to get the router there on a solid base.
OR - are you going to make a separate "half-round" piece for the rub rail and attach it with screws ??
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can you provide a photo of the gunwale straight on ?

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
in your other post, you were looking for your first router - now wanting to route the rub rail.
so I am guessing you have limited experience with routers ?
my question is the raised portion on top of the gunwale - are you wanting to round over the part that the arrow is pointing to? doing the top is doable: but rounding the bottom can be very problematic if there is not enough room to get the router there on a solid base.
OR - are you going to make a separate "half-round" piece for the rub rail and attach it with screws ??
View attachment 398322

can you provide a photo of the gunwale straight on ?

View attachment 398321
Yeppp not trying to sound like an eagitistical jerk at all, but I pick up on things pretty fast. Limited experience with router for sure. But very capable

just round over the part arrow is facing to. In well and gunwell

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Sky Road surface Building Wood Tree
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Wood Rectangle Composite material Material property Slope
 

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looking forward to following your projects (I like the boating stuff).
Edit: sorry, I got disconnected before I could finish the reply.
the reason I mentioned the separate "half-round" piece is this is how it is normally done.
the rub rail most often times take a beating and when it gets in really bad shape, it is replaced. if you route the board that is in place now, that will not be an option down the road.
just something to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
looking forward to following your projects (I like the boating stuff).
Edit: sorry, I got disconnected before I could finish the reply.
the reason I mentioned the separate "half-round" piece is this is how it is normally done.
the rub rail most often times take a beating and when it gets in really bad shape, it is replaced. if you route the board that is in place now, that will not be an option down the road.
just something to consider.
I understand what you mean. Half round mounted on top of the rub rail I already installed. Hmm

I guess what I want is the outside rail to be “half round”.
 

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when you get your router, purchase a few bits that will always be used.
1/2 & 3/4" round over and 45* chamfer is the most common.
are you wanting to be a woodworker as a hobby or just tackle this one job that is in your forefront ?
Edit: I remember making this drawing a while back to demonstrate which bits will make which profile.
I hope it helps you.
the part that you will have to overcome is that your wood is already installed and you must find a way to work with it in the position it is in. the "bull nose bit" (top left) is meant to be used in a router table - not free hand.
let us know how it turns out for you.
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in the boating world, it is called the "sacrificial" rub rail: meaning, it can take the abuse of normal boating conditions and be replaced when needed without disturbing the gunwale.
(or a/k/a gunnel). to make one yourself, you get a router table, a bull nose bit and the board that is the same thickness as the main rail. bull nose one side, cut it off on the table saw, duplicate that until you have enough for your project. if they are too short, you splice the ends with a "scarf" joint. (there is a protocol for this technique as to which end faces forward). then fasten the sacrificial rub rail to the main rail with counter-sunk stainless or bronze screws and plug the holes with the same wood, sand smooth and call it a day.
(it is most advisable to put a 1/4" ball of wax on the screw head before the wood plug is installed).
 

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What John said. The top of your gunwale looks flat and smooth, so you may get away with using the type of bit top right-hand in John's drawing, with the centre-mounted bearing. Won't give exactly the profile you are looking for, but close.
Watch out for those screws you have already driven in. Also watch out for the router tipping.
 

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Your going to have probably a 1/4 on top, and a 1/4 on bottom. Youll have the bearing inbetween.

A perfect bull nose you will not have , but close...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Could I just use a 1/4 round over Normally on top corner. Then for bottom corner use the same bit and hold the router horizontal and the bearing would run on the bottom of the rub rail ?
 

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I strongly suggest when you get your router, get some bits of different sizes. (Ebay is very reasonable).
clamp a 3/4" board to your bench and do some practicing.
especially duplicate the corners in the scrap wood that you will be working with on your boat.
then you will have all your answers.

I like boats !! can you share some photos of the boat itself ?
 

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Could I just use a 1/4 round over Normally on top corner. Then for bottom corner use the same bit and hold the router horizontal and the bearing would run on the bottom of the rub rail ?
You could use the 1/4 round over on the top, but it would be quite a trick to rout the bottom surface with the router in a horizontal position. The chances of maintaining the router perpendicular to the 3/4 edge are slim, even if you do the bottom first. You will land up with an edge that fluctuates in thickness, as the router wobbles. Worse if you rout the top edge first - you will be trying to balance the router (horizontally) on less than 3/4".
Try it out on a board, as John suggested. You will see for yourself.
Have you considered just rounding over the top edge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You could use the 1/4 round over on the top, but it would be quite a trick to rout the bottom surface with the router in a horizontal position. The chances of maintaining the router perpendicular to the 3/4 edge are slim, even if you do the bottom first. You will land up with an edge that fluctuates in thickness, as the router wobbles. Worse if you rout the top edge first - you will be trying to balance the router (horizontally) on less than 3/4".
Try it out on a board, as John suggested. You will see for yourself.
Have you considered just rounding over the top edge?
At this point I may just round over the top edge and round the bottom by hand with orbital sander. It’s a work boat not a show boat. So it doesn’t have to be perfect I guess hahah
 

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I think John is right about adding a second strip, rounded over so you can replace it when it gets beat up.

Since your stock is 3/4, a bullnose can be created with a simeple 3/8ths roundover bit, but run both sides through the bit. A bullnose bit is a little harder to get just right. If you use a 1/4 roundover bit with a bottom mounted bearing, you will have a quarter inch flat area in the middle, which might make it easier to screw it into the other piece. Also the 3/8ths or 1/4 bits will be easier to control.

One good way to do this is to take a long piece of flat stock and roundover the edges, then use a table saw to trim off the rounded over edge to size, ready to drill and screw in place. The wider piece will give you a wider base to stabilize your router to prevent tipping. If you are buying strips of hardwood, you can tape the strip to a cheaper piece of same thickness of pine which will also give you more stability. Pull it loose from the tape and it's done.

FYI, here are some pictures, first of the roundover bit set you can get at any HD, the second showing the names and locations of parts of a router bit with bearings.
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It’s a work boat not a show boat. So it doesn’t have to be perfect, I guess hahah
that statement alone supports the suggestions for a separate attached piece as the rub rail.
what kind of work does the boat perform ? hauling pots. long lining, ferry service, scuba charters ??
just one last question: why are you replacing the gunwales now ? (just out of curiosity)
 

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Could I just use a 1/4 round over Normally on top corner. Then for bottom corner use the same bit and hold the router horizontal and the bearing would run on the bottom of the rub rail ?
Yes, but as mentioned do the bottom first then the top, you have enough there it won't be hard to hold the router horizontal. Even if you have to touch it up with the orbital it will still be easier and more uniform than doing the whole round over with the orbital.
If you do wind up doing the orbital instead of the router. It is easiest to make a chamfer or (45*) first then round that over.
 

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I would use a 1/4" round over for the top and break the lower edge with a block plane or orbital sander... I would then strongly recommend buying 1/2" stainless rub rail or vinyl/rubber and attaching it. A hard impact to the side of the rail is going to transfer to the hull and not gonna be pretty...
That said, hopefully that isn't oak? Mahogany or other "traditional boat wood" would be much better...
 
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