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Burning while ripping on the TS

3444 Views 29 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Cherryville Chuck
I have posted about this before and I may have found a solution. Tell me what you think (even if it's bad). LOL After posting about this last time I tuned my TS to the best of my ability. Yeah I know that may not be good enough. :surprise: The blade is square to the table, and square to the mitre slot, and the fence with the fence having a plus 5 th. on the outfeed. I am using a Freud Premier Fusion full kerf blade. After doing all of this I still got burning so I decided to you my Freud full kerf ripping blade. If I don't mess up feeding I don't get burning. I hate having to switch blades but I hate getting burning off worse.
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Feeding is a big part of it. The chips or sawdust help remove heat. Same in drilling metal. If it's running in one spot it's rubbing and that generates heat. If you are feeding too slow that can generate extra heat too. The extra .005 on the fence, is that away from the blade?
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I find that thin kerf blades are prone to deflection, often for seemingly no reason. Also, high tooth count blades aren't used for ripping because their gullets can't carry away the waste fast enough, thus adding heat. I now use mainly full kerf blades and rarely have burn marks unless I stall the feed for a second or two. I'm really fond of the glue line blades.
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What are you cutting? How thick?
If you are satisfied with the fence, blade alignment and feed rate, that only leaves the blade. In my experience, the Tenryu 24 tooth full kerf rip blade will give you a much better cut than any red blade. Actually, almost any other decent rip blade (Amana, Forrest WWII, Infinity, Carbide Processor s, etc) will far out perform those crappy red blades.
Do you have a splitter behind the blade? I find that most of my burning issues are from reaction wood that tries to close the kerf, back up on the blade. A splitter helps keep the kerf open.
is the blade rated for the depth of cut...
is the blade type being used correctly... ie, crosscut for crosscut and rip for rip...
is the blade sharp... and I mean sharp...
is the blade pitched up...
is your fence run out a bit much..
is the edge of the board that rides against the fence straight...
and..
what species of wood are you cutting..
are you matching feed rate to cutting...
is your riving knife correctly aligned or slightly bent over...
what is the grain orientation.. ie, rift, QS or plain...
are you cutting through wild grain...
been cutting much pine or the ilk lately..
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What are you cutting? How thick?
If you are satisfied with the fence, blade alignment and feed rate, that only leaves the blade. In my experience, the Tenryu 24 tooth full kerf rip blade will give you a much better cut than any red blade. Actually, almost any other decent rip blade (Amana, Forrest WWII, Infinity, Carbide Processor s, etc) will far out perform those crappy red blades.
Gene I use the good Freud blades not the one you buy at Home Depot. I am cutting 3/4" and less in wood like oak, hard and soft maple, ash, and walnut.
use the half fence method...
Another consideration is the hp of your saw. A saw with a 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 will leave burn marks on wood if fed too fast with a full kerf. I like the full kerf blades too, but my saw is only 1 3/4 horses and cuts better with a thin kerf. While I haven't tried a freud blade, but I can vouch for the WoodWorker II.
Make sure blade is sharp and not full of pitch also.
"Actually, almost any other decent rip blade (Amana, Forrest WWII, Infinity, Carbide Processor s, etc) will far out perform those crappy red blades."
-Gene

Ouch! :)

Don; if Freud wants to market a cheap model then they have to live with the criticism...can't have their cake and eat it too. They're only too happy to sell off their red brand colour.
(IMHO)
"Actually, almost any other decent rip blade (Amana, Forrest WWII, Infinity, Carbide Processor s, etc) will far out perform those crappy red blades."
-Gene

Ouch! :)

Don; if Freud wants to market a cheap model then they have to live with the criticism...can't have their cake and eat it too. They're only too happy to sell off their red brand colour.
(IMHO)
Gene is talking about his run w/ Diablo and not comparing apples to apples...
and where did you get your information about them wanting to ditch their red line...
the Fusion series are red as well as their L and P series.....

this heads up is from Freud..

All Freud blades come from the same machines in the same manufacturing plant. We make our own micrograin carbide in numerous formulations that represent various degrees of hardness. The carbide is selected depending on the intended application (the hardest is used for laminates the softest for ripping) as are the tooth angles and tooth quantity. The steel for the blade plates is all the same grade. The brazing is all the same. The key differences between the 2 main lines of Freud blades are:

The LU/LM Industrial blades have the thickest tips for the most resharpenings and are generally full kerf. We also offer the most selection of specialty blades in this line. These have the most appeal to professionals who need to get a lot of sharpenings out of a blade and to artisans who need specialty blades for their projects.

The Diablo line has blades intended for purposes like framing, siding, decking and general home improvement and is packaged and promoted in ways that appeal to contractors and DIYers.

Do professional woodworkers shop for blades at Home Depot? Probably some do and they can get excellent performance from a Diablo blade for a lot of their uses but with a shorter overall life (and lower cost) due to the tip thickness.

Why not compare a Diablo blade to Forrest? Consider this analogy: Toyota cars and Lexus cars share a lot of the same components and are made by the same company. Would you compare a Camry with a BMW?

We make a fourth line of blades (F400 Premier series) that is very similar to the WWII and is priced similarly. The difference between ours and Forrest's is that ours is made by computer controlled, super modern equipment and theirs is made by hand. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages but I leave the final verdict to the consumer.

Charles M
Freud, Inc.

Charles McCracken
Operations Technician
Freud America, Inc
218 Feld Ave.
High Point, NC 27263
Office: 800.334.4107
Freud Tools
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No, I didn't mean "sell off" as in get rid of. I meant it as in sell lower end market products based on the reputation of an established higher end product with a good reputation.
Manufacturers do it all the time. It's my personal opinion that CMT is doing it with their recent introduction of 'Made in China' product.Their reputation is based on German steel and Carbide.
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No, I didn't mean "sell off" as in get rid of. I meant it as in sell lower end market products based on the reputation of an established higher end product with a good reputation.
Manufacturers do it all the time. It's my personal opinion that CMT is doing it with their recent introduction of 'Made in China' product.Their reputation is based on German steel and Carbide.
the real deal Freud is made in Italy... no place else...
however you can find made in china counterfeits..
No, I didn't mean "sell off" as in get rid of. I meant it as in sell lower end market products based on the reputation of an established higher end product with a good reputation.
Manufacturers do it all the time. It's my personal opinion that CMT is doing it with their recent introduction of 'Made in China' product.Their reputation is based on German steel and Carbide.
Amana is doing the same as CMT...
No, I didn't mean "sell off" as in get rid of. I meant it as in sell lower end market products based on the reputation of an established higher end product with a good reputation.
Manufacturers do it all the time. It's my personal opinion that CMT is doing it with their recent introduction of 'Made in China' product.Their reputation is based on German steel and Carbide.
the counterfeits came up through Mexico and were available at Home Desperate and Amazon...
buyer beware...

.

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use the half fence method...
Stick, are you a proponent of the half fence? Having never been aware of it, I recently posted a question to get some input and I noticed that you did not comment.
Stick, are you a proponent of the half fence? Having never been aware of it, I recently posted a question to get some input and I noticed that you did not comment.
have several...
use them and didn't see your post...
have several...
use them and didn't see your post...
Do you have any pictures, tips, or words of wisdom for using one?
where is your original posting on this...
where is your original posting on this...
I just did a reply to my original post to make it Active.
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