I am kinda interested in this myself. :surprise:
Burning while ripping on the TS
I have posted about this before and I may have found a solution. Tell me what you think (even if it's bad). LOL After posting about this last time I tuned my TS to the best of my ability. Yeah I know that may not be good enough. :surprise: The blade is square to the table, and square to the mitre slot, and the fence with the fence having a plus 5 th. on the outfeed. I am using a Freud Premier Fusion full kerf blade. After doing all of this I still got burning so I decided to you my Freud full kerf ripping blade. If I don't mess up feeding I don't get burning. I hate having to switch blades but I hate getting burning off worse.
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I just used an Italian made Freud Diablo 24 tooth ripper to cut some 8/4 red oak. My TS is only 1 hp but it made the cut with no burning and no problem. It's thin kerf so I installed blade stabilizers.the real deal Freud is made in Italy... no place else...
however you can find made in china counterfeits..
I really like a full kerf blade but I do have a thin kerf blade in good condition so I will try that tomorrow.
I have 2 Freud Industrial blades which worked great on remodeling my kitchen. I cut a lot of maple with no problems. I have a Freud Industrial 24T rip blade and a Freud Industrial Cabinet Makers 60T blade. My Freud blades are made in Italy. I think they work great on my old Unisaw 3hp saw.
Fine Woodworking did a comparison on all the popular combo blades, in the current issue. The Freud red blade was rated #1for cleanest rip and crosscut. It was downrated for slow rip rate. They offered the Forrest or the Ridge as faster ripping alternatives at the cost of a little rougher cut. My only experiene with Freud was a 12" in a miter saw. It was thin kerf and had no stabilizers, so it was probably partially my fault for a bad choice, but the it was terrible. I could never get a repeatable cut. A standard kerf Forrest fixed all.What are you cutting? How thick?
If you are satisfied with the fence, blade alignment and feed rate, that only leaves the blade. In my experience, the Tenryu 24 tooth full kerf rip blade will give you a much better cut than any red blade. Actually, almost any other decent rip blade (Amana, Forrest WWII, Infinity, Carbide Processor s, etc) will far out perform those crappy red blades.
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I think a thin kerf in a miter saw isn't a good idea. I am glad you got your problem solved. :smile:
Is Charles M still on the forums?
I don't buy red either...Fine Woodworking did a comparison on all the popular combo blades, in the current issue. The Freud red blade was rated #1for cleanest rip and crosscut. It was downrated for slow rip rate. They offered the Forrest or the Ridge as faster ripping alternatives at the cost of a little rougher cut. My only experiene with Freud was a 12" in a miter saw. It was thin kerf and had no stabilizers, so it was probably partially my fault for a bad choice, but the it was terrible. I could never get a repeatable cut. A standard kerf Forrest fixed all.
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Time to clean up several of my blades. I cut a fair amount of pine. One last suspect. I got a pretty good straight edge not long ago and discovered that the face was slightly warped, not by much, but even a few thousandths bulge would cause problems. If the fence were truly flat, the readout from near to far would be gradual and fairly steady, but it isn't. I think a wood fence would be more prone to this.
You can find out by finding a post he made and clicking on his user name and going to his personal profile. There is a menu bar there with the word statistics on it and when you click on that it gives you the opportunity to see all the posts he made, threads he started, and when his last activity was.Is Charles M still on the forums?
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