[tpyke]

I don't know what else to do here....this morning I went through the owner's manual to try to correct whatever might be wrong, but I don't seem to be getting it at all......
I re-aligned the rip fence, I checked the squareness of the blade, I got a brand new blade, I re-installed the splitter (which I removed because it was not aligned and I didn't know how to align it at the time) and aligned it.
Today I actually got a full rip out of cherrywood with zero burns....I don't know how I did it though...
I rip plywood with no burns. I rip pine with hardly any burns(but there are burn marks sometimes). I rip oak and cherry wood and the wood has burn marks on it! I'm only ripping through 3/4 stock here....I don't think it should have any problems with that!
I'm using a brand new Freud Premier Fusion blade on a Hitachi portable table saw. I set up the ripping fence with a carpenter's square and lock it into position while it's flush with the square.
Does anyone have any ideas how I could better set up my machine or any suggestions on how I could figure out what's going on here.....this is frustrating.....

 

[tpyke]

I think we can rule out the blade, because I was getting the same results with the original blade that came with the table saw. I got this blade thinking the problem would be solved, but....

 

[tpyke]

I'm going to have the chance to experiment today (Ihope...)

Two last things that are bugging me though....
Blade heigth-I've been placing the blade heigth so that the teeth go up past the piece of wood...in other words if you look at it from the side you can always see at least one full tooth. If I place the blade higher, less teeth would be in contact at the same time, so would there be less chance of burning?
Fence alignment-I heard that some people align the back of their fence slightly away from the blade...is this common practice? Is the fence parrallel to the blade the norm?

 

[tpyke]

Here's a pic of my cherry wood project.

Nice work Woodchip7! That cherry wood seems ALOT darker and browner than mine though....did you stain or treat it with anything?
You were all right about my feeding speed though...gotta keep it moving!
The thing is my saw seems to have a hard time when I push it fast enough to not burn....I should have a bigger more industrial saw I think, but I had no choice...limited space. Plus I didn't know about this forum back then, so I didn't know too much about woodworking.
This is the saw I have:http://www.hitachipowertools.com/store_item.php?iID=555&arrPath=1,12,63,p555, ....you guys think it should be able to take the 3/4 cherrywood or might I be pushing it a bit too fast?

 

[tpyke]

.( I recommend Freud 60 or 80 tooth)



============
The saw you have should do the job I think,,,

GOOD! That's what I'm using...60 tooth Freud(full kerf, though).
The last thing I needed was to have a feeling I had to upgrade my TS....too many other tools on the wish list!

I just checked in the instruction manual, and it says:
HP(Maximum developed)..............3.5
RPM(no load).............................5000



What does "Maximum developed" mean?
Could it only lose 1000 RPMs from no load to full load?
Could they be sugar coating the manual?:'(

 

[tpyke]

typke
Here is a link you might find useful. Covers alot of wood species.



http://tinyurl.com/2365su

Very good link! I think I will take a look on there before starting my next projects, really good descriptions.
At one point though, they say that Cherrywood is close to the price of oak....that must really depend where you live, mine was TWICE the rpice of oak...6.90 the board foot!!:'(