[bobj3]

Hi tpyke

Just a long...

Most carpenter's squares are NOT true, this comes from the size most of the time, try using a smaller machinist square and use the miter slot on both ends of the table top.( front and back) ..in fact drop the blade all the way down and setup the fence once you have that done do it one more time then rip some stock, if you still have burn marks reset the saw blade so it's runnng true to the miter slot.

If you still have burn marks ,glue on some sand paper to the saw blade ( both sides) ( the one that came with the table saw) 180 grit. paper ,this will cut and sand all the parts you rip....I use this little trick when I cut plywood vern. and Oak...

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I don't know what else to do here....this morning I went through the owner's manual to try to correct whatever might be wrong, but I don't seem to be getting it at all......
I re-aligned the rip fence, I checked the squareness of the blade, I got a brand new blade, I re-installed the splitter (which I removed because it was not aligned and I didn't know how to align it at the time) and aligned it.
Today I actually got a full rip out of cherrywood with zero burns....I don't know how I did it though...
I rip plywood with no burns. I rip pine with hardly any burns(but there are burn marks sometimes). I rip oak and cherry wood and the wood has burn marks on it! I'm only ripping through 3/4 stock here....I don't think it should have any problems with that!
I'm using a brand new Freud Premier Fusion blade on a Hitachi portable table saw. I set up the ripping fence with a carpenter's square and lock it into position while it's flush with the square.
Does anyone have any ideas how I could better set up my machine or any suggestions on how I could figure out what's going on here.....this is frustrating.....

 

[bobj3]

Hi tpyke

It didn't say anything about HP but it pulls 15amp. at full load and 4000 rpms.
The real key is a good SHARP blade ..( I recommend Freud 60 or 80 tooth) the 80 is for cross cuts but it works great on rips also...the thiner the better for me no need to put good wood down the tube.... plus it takes less power to make a pile of saw dust...

Plus when I rip with the 80 I love to see the long rip strips come off the stock..




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The saw you have should do the job I think,,,

Nice work Woodchip7! That cherry wood seems ALOT darker and browner than mine though....did you stain or treat it with anything?
You were all right about my feeding speed though...gotta keep it moving!
The thing is my saw seems to have a hard time when I push it fast enough to not burn....I should have a bigger more industrial saw I think, but I had no choice...limited space. Plus I didn't know about this forum back then, so I didn't know too much about woodworking.
This is the saw I have:http://www.hitachipowertools.com/store_item.php?iID=555&arrPath=1,12,63,p555, ....you guys think it should be able to take the 3/4 cherrywood or might I be pushing it a bit too fast?

 

[bobj3]

Hi tpyke

"Could they be sugar coating the manual?" Little bit like most do,,
Because that's what most look at ( HP )
Just like a router ..


No load, no saw blade installed almost free spin...

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GOOD! That's what I'm using...60 tooth Freud(full kerf, though).
The last thing I needed was to have a feeling I had to upgrade my TS....too many other tools on the wish list!

I just checked in the instruction manual, and it says:
HP(Maximum developed)..............3.5
RPM(no load).............................5000



What does "Maximum developed" mean?
Could it only lose 1000 RPMs from no load to full load?
Could they be sugar coating the manual?:'(

 

[bobj3]

Hi tpyke

The sand paper on the saw blade WORKS great,, give it shot. if you don't like it you can always take it off...I use 3M #77 spray glue...I also like to use 8" blades they are cheaper and I don't cut 2 x 4 stock on a 45 most of the time...

You can also buy them pre made but you know me cheap old SOB


http://www.grizzly.com/products/G4246
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[bobj3]

Just my 2 cents

My table saw ( the one I like to use most of the time ) is 3/4" HP, 1750 rpm.the type that's hangs on the back end of the saw.. (old Atlas cast iron) and I cut (rip) cherry and maple all the time without any burn marks at all but I do use a 1/16" carb.tip 6 1/4" or a 8" thin combo blade(s) with the sand paper trick..


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[bobj3]

Hi Ed

At one time I got them from
http://www.routerforums.com/66823-post19.html

But now I make my own...


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Hey BJ,

Where do you get the circle sandpaper?

Thanks,

Ed......

 

[bobj3]

Hi Ed

I use sand paper that's comes in packs,, 10 per.if I recall I pull out the 100 and the 150 grit. the norm, then with a gasket punch ,pop out a 5/8" hole ,then with a compass draw the circle I need, then cut it out and put on some 3M #77 glue and let dry almost then put in a 5/8 bolt in the blade I put on the sand paper on the blade..

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Ok, one more quick question,

How do you go about making them, I think I'd like to try that idea...btw, got something called a 'TiltBox for getting accurate results with tablesaw, and any other magnet measurements I might need. Looks real nice, told me my filing cabinet at work was out 0.10deg from 90deg....so it seems to work well.

Thanks BJ,

Ed......

 

[bobj3]

You'er Welcome Ed

Many will say what ? ,,sand paper on a saw blade that guy is nuts,,

It's like the the hammer thing,, I don't need to use a 10lb. hammer to put in a tack in the wall...I have other saws to do the real hvy.jobs but most of the stuff I do is 3/4" thick stock or less and the sand paper thing works and will do both jobs at one time..

Most of the time I don't need to joint the boards on the jointer because they come out so clean and true...

I think once you try it you will say the same just a neat way to do it..

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