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Burning wood while ripping with my table saw....

14904 Views 30 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  bobj3, 
T
I don't know what else to do here....this morning I went through the owner's manual to try to correct whatever might be wrong, but I don't seem to be getting it at all......
I re-aligned the rip fence, I checked the squareness of the blade, I got a brand new blade, I re-installed the splitter (which I removed because it was not aligned and I didn't know how to align it at the time) and aligned it.
Today I actually got a full rip out of cherrywood with zero burns....I don't know how I did it though...
I rip plywood with no burns. I rip pine with hardly any burns(but there are burn marks sometimes). I rip oak and cherry wood and the wood has burn marks on it! I'm only ripping through 3/4 stock here....I don't think it should have any problems with that!
I'm using a brand new Freud Premier Fusion blade on a Hitachi portable table saw. I set up the ripping fence with a carpenter's square and lock it into position while it's flush with the square.
Does anyone have any ideas how I could better set up my machine or any suggestions on how I could figure out what's going on here.....this is frustrating.....
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T
woodchip7 said:
typke
Here is a link you might find useful. Covers alot of wood species.



http://tinyurl.com/2365su
Click to expand...
Very good link! I think I will take a look on there before starting my next projects, really good descriptions.
At one point though, they say that Cherrywood is close to the price of oak....that must really depend where you live, mine was TWICE the rpice of oak...6.90 the board foot!!:'(
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W
Hi: My 2 cents worth is cherry burns very easilly, and I would not use 60 teeth for ripping, 40 teeth in a rip blade should to much better. Feed rate is critical when cutting cherry and maple. The HP of the TS is calculated when the saw is under heavy load and drawing max current, and that point is just prior to stalling the TS.
HP is calculated by multiplying the current times the voltage the saw operates on.
ie 15 amps X 115V. A horse power is about 746 watts, which is what u get when doing the calculation of Amps X Volts. Hope this helps you out. Woodnut65
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B
Just my 2 cents :)

My table saw ( the one I like to use most of the time ) is 3/4" HP, 1750 rpm.the type that's hangs on the back end of the saw.. (old Atlas cast iron) and I cut (rip) cherry and maple all the time without any burn marks at all but I do use a 1/16" carb.tip 6 1/4" or a 8" thin combo blade(s) with the sand paper trick..


============
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karateed
Hey BJ,

Where do you get the circle sandpaper?

Thanks,

Ed......:)
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B
Hi Ed

At one time I got them from
http://www.routerforums.com/66823-post19.html

But now I make my own...


=========

karateed said:
Hey BJ,

Where do you get the circle sandpaper?

Thanks,

Ed......:)
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karateed
Ok, one more quick question,

How do you go about making them, I think I'd like to try that idea...btw, got something called a 'TiltBox for getting accurate results with tablesaw, and any other magnet measurements I might need. Looks real nice, told me my filing cabinet at work was out 0.10deg from 90deg....so it seems to work well.

Thanks BJ,

Ed......:)
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B
Hi Ed

I use sand paper that's comes in packs,, 10 per.if I recall I pull out the 100 and the 150 grit. the norm, then with a gasket punch ,pop out a 5/8" hole ,then with a compass draw the circle I need, then cut it out and put on some 3M #77 glue and let dry almost then put in a 5/8 bolt in the blade I put on the sand paper on the blade..

==============
karateed said:
Ok, one more quick question,

How do you go about making them, I think I'd like to try that idea...btw, got something called a 'TiltBox for getting accurate results with tablesaw, and any other magnet measurements I might need. Looks real nice, told me my filing cabinet at work was out 0.10deg from 90deg....so it seems to work well.

Thanks BJ,

Ed......:)
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Hamlin
Hi Bj,
I've got a few spare peel & stick 12 sanding discs... was thinkin, I could use those for my blades. :D
I did get the H&L system from shopsmith a few days ago. Still under the weather here so haven't been in the shop much of late. :(
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GoonMan
tpyke said:
I don't know what else to do here....this morning I went through the owner's manual to try to correct whatever might be wrong, but I don't seem to be getting it at all......
I re-aligned the rip fence, I checked the squareness of the blade, I got a brand new blade, I re-installed the splitter (which I removed because it was not aligned and I didn't know how to align it at the time) and aligned it.
Today I actually got a full rip out of cherrywood with zero burns....I don't know how I did it though...
I rip plywood with no burns. I rip pine with hardly any burns(but there are burn marks sometimes). I rip oak and cherry wood and the wood has burn marks on it! I'm only ripping through 3/4 stock here....I don't think it should have any problems with that!
I'm using a brand new Freud Premier Fusion blade on a Hitachi portable table saw. I set up the ripping fence with a carpenter's square and lock it into position while it's flush with the square.
Does anyone have any ideas how I could better set up my machine or any suggestions on how I could figure out what's going on here.....this is frustrating.....
Click to expand...
Hello tpyke

One other thing you can check if changing to a 40 or 50 tooth blade and feed rate does not work. Check your fence to make sure it does not have a twist in it. If it is a new saw it could have been damaged in shipping. I also ordered and started using the Frued 30T Glue Line Rip blade on Cherry, Black Walnut and Hard Maple that I use to make cutting boards and table tops with.
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karateed
bobj3 said:
Hi Ed

I use sand paper that's comes in packs,, 10 per.if I recall I pull out the 100 and the 150 grit. the norm, then with a gasket punch ,pop out a 5/8" hole ,then with a compass draw the circle I need, then cut it out and put on some 3M #77 glue and let dry almost then put in a 5/8 bolt in the blade I put on the sand paper on the blade..

==============
Click to expand...
Thanks very much BJ.....

Ed...... :sold:
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B
You'er Welcome Ed

Many will say what ? ,,sand paper on a saw blade that guy is nuts,,:)

It's like the the hammer thing,, I don't need to use a 10lb. hammer to put in a tack in the wall...I have other saws to do the real hvy.jobs but most of the stuff I do is 3/4" thick stock or less and the sand paper thing works and will do both jobs at one time..

Most of the time I don't need to joint the boards on the jointer because they come out so clean and true...

I think once you try it you will say the same :) just a neat way to do it..

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