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Cabinet Doors With Windows

1411 Views 7 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  ger21
Infinity Premium Glass Door bit set. The stile bit cuts a very thin slot forming the back of the frame, then another very thin bit is used to make a second cut to remove material to form the area for the glass and to make a small glazing strip to hold the glass in place. Problem, even on lowest speed setting and moderate smooth movement these tiny bits overheat. Anyone else experience same with this or other glass door bits?


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Hello Phil and welcome to the forums...

what material/species of wood ate you working w/???
is the bit set new???
how much material are you removing per pass...
what is the manufacturer's recommended RPM???
any skip or choppy looking marks on the cut wood???

A dull bit cuts poorly and builds up heat doing so. If you can run the cutter over your fingernail without shearing off a shaving, then your bit needs sharpening...
Resins and dust build up on the bit cause overheating...
hogging out large cuts in even the hardest of woods stress the bit, causes tear-out, and will cause overheating....



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Welcome, Phil...I suspect speed as well...those bits like low RPM's and shallow cuts, multiple passes. I gather the bits are new...?
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Welcome Phil. As already mentioned speed and dept of cut make a huge difference. Hardness of wood should be considered as well. Most new router owners who haven't used these tools before make the mistake of trying to make the cut in one pass which for shallow cuts is fine but trying more that 1/8" to 3/16" in one pass is going to be a problem. A video series I watched once had the cutter set for the final depth but the operator had 1/8" hardboard cut so the cutter was clear of the board when laid over. If the depth of cut needed was say 1/2" there would be 4 - 1/8" boards stacked and after each pass he would remove one of those boards. Same difference if you adjust the cutter up after each pass.
You already have the bits so suggesting that an ogee or similar for the decorative top face and a mortise bit for the glass insert shoulder isn't particularly helpful to you(?).
A door plant would likely be using a shaper for doing this operation in a single pass.
Hi Phil, welcome. Wow, answers immediately. If you are already restricting cut depth, and the bits have been used for awhile, consider cleaning them with a bit cleaner. If, like many of us, you tried out the set on green wood, it could easily have picked up some resin, which then gets baked onto the bit. Scrub with a toothbrush and lubricate any bearing with a good bearing oil. Peachtree has a nice oil:,aps,206&sr=8-2

Here's a link to the cleaner from Amazon:,aps,204&sr=8-1

Most good quality bits can be sharpened either by a service or by you with a diamond card. You don't stroke it on the edge (it would change the profile), but on the exposed flat of each carbide section. Usually only a few strokes are required. But Stick gave a good criteria for sharpness. Last picture is of a diamond sharpener in use. I prefer to lay the card on a table for this. Link to Trend sharpening card:,aps,208&sr=8-4

I have a similar set from Sommerfeld, and that glass cutter is really thin.


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material is Walnut
Bits are new and I always clean my bits with Orange bit cleaner and brass bristle brush
I am using Porter Cable 7518 mounted in a table. This router only has 5 speeds, I am using the lowest setting with is 10,000
I am an experienced although amateur woodworking and am only biting very minimal amount 1/16 or maybe a little more because of the material which is prone to burn
I have not used a bit with only 1/32" cut before.
I may have to use a router with a slower speed, or I may try cutting with table saw using thin kerf blade
Feed the wood faster. The slowest router you'll find will probably only go down to around 8,000 rpm, and I doubt that would make much difference.
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