[awcsgo]

I have a Ryobi Plunge Router installed in a Ryobi router table. I can't get the router bit to come up above the surface of the table, so it's impossible to cut anything. What am I doing wrong?? Any help will be appreciated, since I am so new at this.

 

[kp91]

If you can post a picture or model numbers that will help diagnose the problem. Also, the bit you are using and the diameter. The router may have a plastic baseplate that has to be removed before it can be mounted to the table, or the bit diameter is too large for the opening in the table.

Depending on the info we can come up with a solution.

 

[awcsgo]

Awesome, thanks. Here are photos of the router model, a photo of it “plunged” as far as it will go, and a photo of the base.

 

[kp91]

The plunge stop bar (silver thing with the scale) is bottoming out. Loosen the black knob and retract it.

 

[awcsgo]

The plunge stop bar (silver thing with the scale) is bottoming out. Loosen the black knob and retract it.

I did that. It’s almost like the plunge springs won’t retract enough. I was wondering if somehow the router base was upside down, but that’s the way it came. I only installed it on the table.

 

[awcsgo]

 

[kp91]

If I make it to Home Depot I will take a peek at that model. You can probably get a little more depth by not inserting the bit as far. As long as the bit is fully through and past the collet you are good.

 

[awcsgo]

If I make it to Home Depot I will take a peek at that model. You can probably get a little more depth by not inserting the bit as far. As long as the bit is fully through and past the collet you are good. View attachment 400846

I wondered about that, but I was nervous about not seating it as they instructed (all the way, then pulling up 1/16”). I’ll see how that plays out. I also wondered if there is a bot set with longer posts or something, but I don’t see that as an option.

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

As long as you have enough in the collet ful, legth it's alright to Sept out. This was a major problem with raised panel bits.. you had to pull it out as you could to get the full cut..

It pays to buy 1/2 shank bits when using the router table..

 

[awcsgo]

I called Ryobi. They told me that was an issue with their tables. So I wonder why in the heck they would sell something as compatable that doesn’t work?!? OMG.

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

So did you take the router bit loose to see if you can extend it out rather than push it all the way in?

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

Its not unusual to pull the router bit out a bit to gain a little strategy e on length. 1/2 shank bits are s lot longer, but 1/4 arent, but you ca bbn pull it out some.

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

As you can see the differences between 1/4 and 1/2 shank lengths.

 

[Billybobb]

Great pictures(all), descriptions and discussions

 

[kp91]

So I took a look at that model at HD, and it will compress pretty far, but the springs are pretty stiff. If you are dedicating this router to the table it might be worth it to remove the springs. You'll have to look at an exploded view drawing to see how. I had to do this with an old PC 693 router base.

Wish I could have a better solution

 

[awcsgo]

I tried not inserting the shaft all the way, but it still doesn’t clear the table. I will try the 1/2” bits, then last resort, remove springs, since my plan is to commit it to the table. Thanks all!! I will let you know what works!

 

[old55]

Welcome to the forum @awcsgo

 

[jw2170]

G'day @awcsgo , welcome to the forum.

 

[DesertRatTom]

Hi and welcome. I suggest you switch to half inch shanks. I get half inch grommets and drop them into the bottom of the collet space, they're about 1/8 th thick so you can just bottom out your bit on top of that. Not familiar with Ryobi, but removing the spring is pretty common for using plunge routers in a table. Just put the spring in a safe place so it doesn't get lost. How you remove the spring is another question, but generally there is a screw on cap at the end of the tube. That should give you another inch or more. With the half inch shanks, that should get you going.

For any bit much wider than an inch and a quarter across, get it with a half inch shank. The collet gets a tighter grip (more surface area for the collet to grip). Why such a fuss about half inch shanks for table use? Because that extremely sharp bit is spinning at 20,000 rpm and if it get spit out, it will tear up anything or anyone it hits.

 

[awcsgo]

Hi and welcome. I suggest you switch to half inch shanks. I get half inch grommets and drop them into the bottom of the collet space, they're about 1/8 th thick so you can just bottom out your bit on top of that. Not familiar with Ryobi, but removing the spring is pretty common for using plunge routers in a table. Just put the spring in a safe place so it doesn't get lost. How you remove the spring is another question, but generally there is a screw on cap at the end of the tube. That should give you another inch or more. With the half inch shanks, that should get you going.

For any bit much wider than an inch and a quarter across, get it with a half inch shank. The collet gets a tighter grip (more surface area for the collet to grip). Why such a fuss about half inch shanks for table use? Because that extremely sharp bit is spinning at 20,000 rpm and if it get spit out, it will tear up anything or anyone it hits.

I ordered a set of 1/2” bits and will try that first! Thanks so much!