Hi Chris

I use Johnson paste wax out of the yellow can, once clean it will fill the little holes and make it just like a baby butt but it will not stain the wood, it's about a 90 day thing for me but the top is just like new. No Rust...I have mates stop by and put a cold beer/pop can on my table saw and that gets me going in a heart beat..


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Furniture paste wax seems to be the best solution. Clean off the rust with some fine steel wool (000 or better). Remove all oil with alcohol. dry thoroughly and then wax.

Some swear by Renaisance microcrystaline wax. It's expensive. I've used it and it works but I'm going to try some Johnson's paste wax soon. Home Depot sells it - I'm told it's in the cleaning product section.

 

Welcome to the router community Chris.

 

Furniture wax works for me, but don't even think about put a cold anything on any of my cast iron tops!!!!!

 

i havent read any other post's. but this is the best you can get. Get the T-9 after you use the rust free. The rust free will take the rust off and make the table look like new. Now after that ust the T-9 this will make and keep the top from rusting. It will make it slick. The wd40 is not what i would use . Some will say sand than past wax. Now what i would do. The surface rust will come off but rust is still in the iron. Use the rust off this will do the job. here is the link to read about it. I belive sear's has this product?? Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

 

This will only apply for some, but I get mine from my local boating shop, where dealing with rust is a daily event. I have a local "West Marine" store that sells this as well as products like epoxy in larger (pint, quart, etc.) containers. They have many stores across the US and Canada and sell mail-order at West Marine: Home Page.

They're anything *but* a discount store, but if you have a local store, you can get it right away.. and not have to deal with special shipping restrictions.

Jim

i havent read any other post's. but this is the best you can get. Get the T-9 after you use the rust free. The rust free will take the rust off and make the table look like new. Now after that ust the T-9 this will make and keep the top from rusting. It will make it slick. The wd40 is not what i would use . Some will say sand than past wax. Now what i would do. The surface rust will come off but rust is still in the iron. Use the rust off this will do the job. here is the link to read about it. I belive sear's has this product?? Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

 

I use furniture paste wax. It does not contain silicone like car wax so it won't interfere with the finishing process.

 

I use the Boeshield Rust Free,followed with light coat of Boeshield T-9 and then apply Johnson Paste Wax. Takes care of my problems until summer time when I start sweating all over the tools.

Lago

 

I had a rust problem. I cleaned them up with WD-40 and some OOOO steal wool. Then I used Johnson paste wax hadn't had a problem since.

 

Years ago an old timer told me to use bacon grease for the rust problem. I had a dog of a table saw - a Craftsman 12" that was always left outside for this or that reason. The bacon grease worked pretty good. I'd wipe it down before and I can't remember a staining problem.

 

Hi Erik


hahahahahahaha must have been is dinner time

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Hi
Here in Australia you can get a product called "Silver Glide" see here Silverglide Dry Slip : CARBA-TEC. Works very well

Regards

Harold

 

Hi Chris,

I live south of Houston and have high humidity in my garage/shop. I hate rust! My tablesaw and my bandsaw were both rusting through the paste wax I had applied and I was getting really frustrated. The T-9 products have worked better than anything else so far but you will still need to stay on top of the rust as it forms.

Brenda

 

Best stuff I have found to date. Been using it for over 5 years and have no rust in my shop.

 

Add my vote for Johnsons paste wax. It's cheap and effective, even here in the high humidity state of Florida.
I've been using it for over thirty years.

 

Hi there...I just joined this forum after spending a few hours researching rust prevention. It seems like most woodworking, machining, and sailing forums agree about one product: Boeshield T-9 stands head and shoulders above the rest. It was developed by Boeing. Available at Lowe's and HD. Gonna get me some tomorrow.

 

Hi Russell and welcome to the forum. T-9 is a great product and will do you a good job.

 

Hi Chris

I live in Brisbane, Australia where the humidity can be fairly savage also. To protect my cast iron tables on my router table and scroll saws, I use 000 grade steel wool followed by a light coating of Silberglide (I think that's how it's spelt). Seems to work well for me and I haven't noticed any transfer of the Silberglide to the wood.

Regards
Puzzlesmate

 

I am glad I checked this thread. Great information. I will have to check my local Sears store.
Chris, good luck with beating your rust.
I have an old Jet 6" Jointer with the same issue.

Arnold

 

I just started using Rejex on my cast iron and so far I am very happy with it. It is a wax type product developed for use on aircraft and contains no abrasives as it is safe to use on plastic wind screens.

 

Yes common problem. Up here in Canada we have a product called "autoso". It can be purachased through any automotive supply store. not only will it remove your rust, but it will put an invisible layer on the top and it will never rust again. there is a little polishing involved but it is well worth it All my metal tools are teated with this product.

 

Eastwood Company: Search Results for autosol
Priory Polishes Online Shop - Solvol Autosol Metal Polish (100g tube) (Powered by CubeCart)

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Hey Chris I too am in La.,also have a cast iron table which I cleaned up nice with 000 steel wool and wd-40, but now I will try the Johnson paste wax, because I do not have rust yet and do not want to get started in that direction

 

Yea, the johnson paste wax is great for the tops. Just apply once a week if you use it a lot, it also will help things glide better.

 

So it seems like Boeshield T-9 and then follow with Johnson paste wax seems to be the solution, Will be tryin to get this combo this weekend and give it a shot

 

My vote: clean the table -- apply Boeshield T9 polish thoroughly then Johnson paste wax over that. Polish some more.

 

T-9 should be all that you need

i wouldn't use wax on my saw . What if it get into the wood grain like oak and you don't sand it all out. The finish wouldn't stay on in that spot?? T-9 is all that is needed. If you got rust use the rust-off It is all so made by boeing air craft. those 2 are all that is needed. As far as WD-9 the wd stands for water desplacement. I don't use that. Only T-9 i live in florida on the east coast 10 miles from the ocean and no rust on any of my bed's . I have 7 and no rust. I guess if it work's don't change it ? my 2 cent's

 

i wouldn't use wax on my saw ...

Hi Del:

I found that the T-9 alone didn't last long enough. I use it to fill in the "pores" and then the wax for "legs." I do a lot of work with pretty raunchy "cast offs" and recycled wood so I'll go for all the protection I can get.

Whatever one uses, the secret is to polish thoroughly.

Ron

 

I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my cast iron, and have done so for many years. I've tried other products, but have always gone back to Johnson's. My shop is less than 50' from a lake in North Carolina and any iron without wax rusts very quickly in my shop. I usually re-wax all of the tops when doing my quarterly (roughly) tune-up, but also re-wax any time that I notice that wood doesn't slide easily. I have never had a problem with the wax causing finishing problems because when I apply the wax I wait a few minutes and then buff all of the excess off. I also sand all of the surfaces of my projects before applying finish, so this removes minute traces of the wax, if there were any. I also use Johnson's paste wax on the ways and gearing of my Unisaw because it does not attract and hold sawdust like other lubricants. An old toothbrush is a great applicator for doing this and I leave it thick here with no attempt to remove the excess.

Charley

 

Hi

I will 2nd Charley post, the Johnson wax will not get on the stock, once it's dry it's like a rock..plus you can recoat it easy if needed..but don't use WD40 or any type of auto wax..

Just a note ,,I use it on my OLD cast iron Atlas saw and my Alum.top table top saws ,it keeps the nasty black mark off the wood.

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