Centering your router on a mounting plate

41970 Views 61 Replies 37 Participants Last post by niswanger, Jan 8, 2016

Mike

Discussion Starter · Jun 22, 2009

It is very important that your router be centered on your mounting plate. Many people sweat over this for hours remeasuring before they drill their mounting holes. The quick and easy way to do this is with a centering kit from Rousseau. These kits work with all brands of mounting plates that accept Porter Cable style guide bushings and they cost $5.

Step 1. You chuck up the centering pin in your routers 1/4" collet.
Step 2. Insert the disk into the center hole of your mounting plate.
Step 3. Remove the sub base plate from your router, set it and the screws aside.
Step 4. Install the transfer screws into your routers base with the points facing out.
Step 5. place the centering pin into the disk, position your router to face the direction you want it mounted and lightly tap the edge of your router with a mallet. This marks the locations you need to drill.
Step 6. Drill the holes, flip the plate over and slightly countersink them.
Step 7. Using the new screws that came in the centering kit attach your router and it is perfectly centered.

If you are using a plate that accepts the larger Oak Park style guide bushings you can purchase a centering disk and a guide pin from them. You can purchase transfer screws from most hardware stores or tool suppliers.

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Cherryville Chuck

· #41 · Nov 22, 2014

Agree Dan. The best designs I've seen have flat countersunk holes that are enlarged enough to be able to move the plate a little to get to center.

bob156235

· #42 · Nov 22, 2014

No, their not flathead. They're similar to a washerhead or panhead. The screw hole is oversize allowing the plate to center before the screw is tightened.

DaninVan

· #43 · Nov 22, 2014

That's very strange, Bob.
You've obviously spent a lot of time and frustration over this, so please excuse my simplistic questions...I can't see what's actually happening.
A sideways force is being generated as the fasteners are cinched down?
Are all four (3 or 4?) screws actually centred in their baseplate holes, or are one or more maybe a little tight against a side(s) of the baseplate hole as the screw is run into the metal sub-baseplate? Can you rotate the baseplate to a different orientation, and still get exactly the same result?
Have you tried not tightening each screw down as you install it? Go around tightening down after you're sure it's actually aligned...check again after tightening each screw...trying to isolate which one's causing your problem.
Again I apologize if it seems like I'm not giving you credit for having tried those routines; just thinking out-loud what I'd be doing if it was in front of me.

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bob156235

· #44 · Nov 23, 2014

As the centerpin, shaped like a golf tee, is pressed into the brass collar installed in the center (bit) hole of the plate, the plate automatically "centers itself" as the router collet nut is tightened (like router bit). From there, it's simply a matter of tightening the screws going through the plate and into the screw holes in the router housing. The plate holes and router (housing) holes line up perfectly. [Note that even if they weren't perfectly lined up, the plate is already fixed in position and can't move at this point. It is only a matter of tightening the screws down which holds the plate to the housing. Afterwhich, the centering pin and plate collar are removed. Am my making this out to be clear as mud?

jw2170

· #45 · Nov 23, 2014

DaninVan said:
Hey, Bob; out of curiosity, are your screws conical on the underside (flat head screws) or flat on the underside (round or pan head screws). I keep seeing references and comments in books and articles suggesting replacing the existing OEM ones.
If either the countersink or the screw is conical then for sure it'll pull away from where you want it.

+1...

Flat bottom screws into slightly oversized flat bottom holes.

DaninVan

· #46 · Nov 23, 2014

Perfectly clear, Bob.
I am a bit confused however, mine is like a Xmas tree...maybe specifically for plunge routers?
Bosch RA1151 Centering Pin and Cone
From their description, the brass collar is loose during the tightening process. Is it possible you've got yours tightened down, and it's actually applying sideways torque to the motor shaft/collet as you tighten the plate screws down...ie bouncing back once you remove the centring cone ?
I'm just spit-balling here; maybe someone with a lot more hands on can clarify this?

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Stick486

· #47 · Nov 23, 2014

Dan has the plan...
I go to plan something or another....

if the plate is "walking" when you tighten the screws you you need to tighten them like lug nuts on a car...
take up the slack...
snug a little bit...
move the next screw in a star pattern...
repeat often til you are tight...

now tight here by no means means cranked down because if you do you'll mis-shapen the screw sockets and then you're past the point of no return and a new plate is in order unless you can accurately re-flatten the socket bottoms...

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bob156235

· #48 · Nov 24, 2014

That's the set-up, Stick.
The method you desdcribed to screw on the plate on the router is exactly what I did.
There is no reason to the off-set other than the plate itself milled incorrectly.
Anyway, was wondering if anyone else have ever experienced this.
Thx for the input.

Stick486

· #49 · Nov 24, 2014

bob156235 said:
Anyway, was wondering if anyone else have ever experienced this.
Thx for the input.

only w/ PC and sears routers....

DaninVan

· #50 · Nov 24, 2014

Bob said...
"As the centerpin, shaped like a golf tee, is pressed into the brass collar installed in the center (bit) hole of the plate, the plate automatically "centers itself" as the router collet nut is tightened (like router bit)."

Sorry, Bob, but that's in conflict with the Bosch instructions that I posted. The collet nut needs to be tightened before anything else is tightened...especially the brass collar. The centering cone is the starting point for everything else being aligned (to it). The cone has to be rock solid as the starting point; not applying sideways pressure to anything.

bob156235

· #51 · Nov 24, 2014

DaninVan said:
Sorry, Bob, but that's in conflict with the Bosch instructions that I posted. The collet nut needs to be tightened before anything else is tightened...especially the brass collar. The centering cone is the starting point for everything else being aligned (to it). The cone has to be rock solid as the starting point; not applying sideways pressure to anything.

Hi Dan,
There is a mix-up here.
The brass collar is attached, and its nut tightened, to the new plate before placing it on the router. Only then can the centering pin be pushed threw it and into the router collet to tighten IT up. See pic in upper post.

DaninVan

· #52 · Nov 24, 2014

I did see it, Bob. Never the less, there's your problem...the centering pin has to be firmly held before you can tighten anything else down.
It's the anchor for the alignment process, not the tool.
No harm in trying Bosch's technique? If that doesn't work than I'm out of ideas.

Slomoe

· #53 · Dec 9, 2014

Do you have the router motor locked in before you set the alignment? You could be shifting the motor in the housing after you have set the alignment pin on center, therefore creating a shift in the pin or bit. Clear all saw dust from the housing and motor before assembly. Set the motor near the depth you expect to cut in case there is any misalignment between the housing base and the motor. Then lock down the motor in the housing to remove any side clearance. Then mount the base plate loose but snug. Install the guide bushing loose but snug. Insert pin in collect and tighten. Rotate the router shaft by hand to center the plate and bushing. Check for concentricity, and then lock down the bushing. Next, lock down the plate nice and even as you go around it to center it. Re-check alignment, and check concentricity. Now loosen the router motor, raise it 1/32, retighten motor and recheck concentricity. Take note of the pin when you rotate the shaft in the loose and motor tight position for any change in concentricity. Next time around you should be able to just drop in the guide bushing and pin (locked in) and tighten the bushing and you are good to go.
Be sure the motor shaft is straight and the bearings good, with no side clearance.

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Reactions: 1

GregLittleWoodworks

· #54 · Dec 13, 2014

Most of my routers came with a centering pin and I did not use them at first. I then realized that the router plate is not always accurate as you would expect it be with the factory settings. I have since centered all of my routers.

Reactions: 1

knuxiey001

· #55 · Jan 15, 2015

that's a cool center routing table.

chris kenney

· #56 · Mar 18, 2015

Quick question on this topic I just noticed. The plate which covers my router arbor and bit is not screwed down. The router is mounter under the router table on the Grizz 1023. I am a new woodworker. Is this inherently dangerous? Should I just abandon the table saw top and get a good router table? Thx.

Chris Kenney
Acworth, GA

BrianS

· #57 · Mar 18, 2015

Chris, maybe some pics if you can?

DaninVan

· #58 · Mar 18, 2015

Are you talking about the accessory insert plate? The one that replaces your standard from-the-factory base plate?
If that's the one you mean, the drop in insert plate that recesses flush with your table top, the answer most often given is that if it's a good fit to the recess than the weight of the router hanging off it should be enough to keep it firmly in place.
Bill Hylton has a ton of info on baseplates etc., in his book Router Magic...look for the newest edition on Amazon.com .

nsecrist

· #59 · Mar 19, 2015

Good Tips Mike

Mike,

These are great tips - thanks for sharing.

Nate

chris kenney

· #60 · Mar 23, 2015

Yes--there are 2 metal insert plates which fit over router bit opening on Grizz 1023 with router table extension . They both have a small metal nib which fits into a very small machined opening inside the rim of the opening. I am not sure I like this set up for versatility and accuracy. Considering getting a Kreg or other brand router table.

Chris

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