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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for some free plans to build a bookcase similar to this one. This is not a project I built, just an example of what I want to do. If anyone knows where I can find some free plans similar to this I would greatly appreciate it. TIA

Katie
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh that would be great. I think it looks pretty simple but I am new to this so any help would be awesome. I think I would like it to be a four teir. The books are supposed to set forward facing out in the slots. The ones I have seen are only about 3 inches setback for each level, and the backs of the levels are just slightly angled back so the books will lean back instead of forward when resting in the slots. I would prefer it did not have the extended legs. About 25 inches wide and no more than 15 inches deep. I want it to set on top of my daughters dresser. I have very few tools of my own. Just a circular saw, a mouse sander and a drill. If I need to I can borrow a scroll saw and router from my dad. I would like to keep it as simple as possible because I am just learning. I was thinking of using MDF and painting it. Thank you for your help. I am thinking two triangular pieces for the sides. This is what I have come up with so far. I know this is a very crude drawing but bear with me. I would love to hear your ideas on this. (see pic below) The red lines are the end piecies and the blue lines are where I would line up the pockets. It looks like I would need
one 4 x 23 inches
four 3 x 23 inches
and four 7 x 23 inches. Does that look like it will work to you?
Thank you so much for taking a look at this for me.

Katie
 

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The drawing looks good. One comment: It looks a bit crowded with 4 tiers maybe 3 would be better for the 14" wide or how effective is 3" deep? Remember we have the tiered shelves so we can see the books right? With 3" wide there will be a lot of books behind other books. Maybe 4 tiers but the shelf width is only 2" wide.

You say you have a router. Plunge or Fixed Based? Is the router table mounted or portable? Any router bits? Any guides?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you are right about making them a 2 inch depth instead of a 3 inch. Then there will be more books showing. I am also wondering if the 4 inches will be too deep for the pockets. We are going to the preschool tomorrow, so I will take a tape measure and check the demensions on the one there.

The router belongs to my Dad who is not a woodworker. I called him today and asked if I could borrow it. He is going to drop it by on wednesday. He said he has never used it and does not know what kind it is. I think it is a plunge. He said it has a little portable table with it. He said he is not sure if there are any bits or guides with it. If I need to I can go buy a bit. It looks like I will have to wait till wednesday to see exactly what it is. I will post the info as soon as I can. Thanks again.

Katie
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I got the router and the scroll saw today. the router is a craftsman model 315.17492 and the scroll is a shop fox w1713 variable speed. I have been looking online and could not find any info on this router. I have never used one before so I am not sure what type it is but I think it is a plunge. My dad said it had a little portable table with it when he got it, but he could not find it. There are no bits or guides either, so I will have to go buy a bit. I am just not sure what kind I will need. I measured the book case at the preschool and it was about two inches from front to back of the slots, and about three inches from top to bottom of the slot/pocket.
 

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We don't really have many router accessories so lets do this project without the router this time. I would suggest that we use the butt joint for the shelves and screws to tie this project together.

Let's start by laying out one side of the shelf on graph paper. We need two sides but we are going to use just the one pattern to get the information on the both the left and right sides. We need the positioning of the shelves and screws on the graph paper. To do this can you get graph paper to make a full scale pattern. Then transfer this pattern to one side of your MDF.

To get the other side's layout we are going to use the back side of your paper pattern. One side of the pattern will be the right hand side and the other side of the pattern will be the left hand side.

If you can't see the lines and screws on the back side of the pattern... tape the graph paper pattern face down on to a window and let the sun light be your light table to transfer the lines and screw positions to the back of the pattern.

Lets do this then we will talk about the sizes of the shelves and supports on the material list next.
 

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I know I'm coming in a little late on this but when I saw the first sketch I knew this looked like something I have in a book called Make-it-yourself Equipment Encyclopedia compiled by Eleanor l. Doan. I think I got this around 1980 at a Christian book store it was published by Gospel Light and cost $2.25. There are 200 projects in the book and I only built a few, and not the Two-Way Library (this is what they called this piece).

This one is a good deal larger then what you want and rolls around on wheels and includes three shelves on the oposite side of the display.

If you are interested in seeing what this one looks like private message me and give me an email address to send it to.

I have no idea if this book is still around but I made several projects for my kids (the youngest is now 26) and I still have at least a few of the projects hanging about the house.... All the project are simple to build and require few tools.

Ed
 

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Great! I think we should use 3/4" MDF for the sides and shelves. Look forward to your next post. Below is a question for you in the mean time.

What is the length of the shelves? Remember we are using the butt joint on side to shelf joint, our overall finished size is 25" and the thickness of material is 3/4".
 

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This is one of my favorite items out of the book I mentioned. It is also an easy project and if you want to do a little routing like rounding over or a bit more.........

I made mine out of pine and it survived 2 boys and a girl and a grand daughter, of couse it looks like an antique now.... like 100 years old rather the the 25 it is. It is for smaller children.......

Ed
 

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A quick question.

reible said:
This is one of my favorite items out of the book I mentioned. It is also an easy project and if you want to do a little routing like rounding over or a bit more.........

I made mine out of pine and it survived 2 boys and a girl and a grand daughter, of couse it looks like an antique now.... like 100 years old rather the the 25 it is. It is for smaller children.......

Ed
Ed,

What kind of joint did you use on these? It isn't clear on the drawings.
 

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jcmaro said:
Ed,

What kind of joint did you use on these? It isn't clear on the drawings.
Hi,

The plans are all very simple and thus the joints are as well. A butt joint is used and I used screws to make it a bit stronger, counter sunk and plugged.

I should also note that most 1 x 12 material is now just 11-1/4" so the dimensions shown need to be adjusted. Of course if you use plywood this can be cut as shown or even increased to to almost 16" for little older kids to sit on.

We kept our in the bathroom for various reasons including having little one being able to wash their hands and see in the mirror..... you can also have then sit on it while you patch up scraped knees and well the list goes on.

I also made a few "doll" sized chairs of this basic design using sliding dovetail joints which also made it in to a puzzle...... I'll leave that for you to imagine.

Depending on wood selection any number of joints can be added and the "seat" does not have to be in the middle.... there must be fifty ways to do this.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Bob and Rick
I already bought 1/2 inch MDF is that going to be ok? I had been planning with that dimension in mind. The shelves I planned basically looks like a staircase with a piece coming up in front of each step. Like the drawing I posted. I figured 2.5 inches deep on the bottom of the pocket/shelf with the front of the pocket butted up on the front and the back of the pocket/shelf butted by sitting on top of the bottom piece.

Hey I saw The Router Workshop for the first time today. What a great show. I set the DVR to record it from now on. I am excited to start learning how to use the router. I have a question though. How can I tell if this router takes a 1/4 or 1/2 inch bit.

Thanks for sending me that diagram Ed. That looks a lot like what I have planned out. I made up the pattern and am going to trace it on to the wood tomorrow and start cutting if you all think everything looks ok.
 

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Ok 1/2" it is...on the router if it takes 1/2" shanked router bits it will take 1/4" router bits. Just need to add the 1/4" sleeve. What is the model number of your router?
 

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Diagram looks fine. Do you have the full scale drawing complete? What about the offset height? And the overall width and height of the shelves. You have these all worked out right.

I like how the pieces tie together...you have done a great job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes I did have it all worked out on the graph paper. Sorry I did not post all the details. I cannot figure out how to get the graph background to work on my computer program. Here are the rest of the specs. It is the same for each level. It works out so each shelf/ pocket is 3 inches high on the front if measuring from the inside, 2 inches deep from front to back, and 6 inches high on the back if measureing from the inside. I hope that makes sense. Here is a more detailed diagram. I wish I could get the graph to work because it makes it much more visually clear.
 

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