You could always drill thru, at each end of the cut, then use a sabre saw.
Cicular Saw Plunge Cuts
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Hmmm, I think I understand what you are trying to do. Essentially you are making through cutouts for a hand for holding the ladder. If I'm wrong then ignore the rest of this.
I have done something similar a number of times but used a router with a template. Forstner bit to hog out the the waste. Here are some pictures when I was making some trays. These were done on a router table but could easily be freehanded. This certainly makes for a clean cut.
I have done something similar a number of times but used a router with a template. Forstner bit to hog out the the waste. Here are some pictures when I was making some trays. These were done on a router table but could easily be freehanded. This certainly makes for a clean cut.
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Thinking on it, I do not believe I have ever seen a wooden ladder with handholds like you want. Using the rungs for handholds would be easier to use, and I'm sure faster. #1 shows fire department ladders, with no handholds cut in. #2 shows how the San Francisco does for at least part of their wooden ladders, you will note they use spacers, not cut holes, and they are bolted in. I'm not sure if this is to provide cutout handholds, or just a way to strengthen the ladders. I'd go with that if I wanted hand holes.
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What size 2x, 6 or 8? You need an inch and a half for the hand to go through, plus and inch for the hand rail, and you want another 3.5 inches for the main body of the ladder., so that's a total of 6 inches, which would mean starting with a 2x8 and removing about 1.5 inches. That is going to be a pretty heavy ladder. I'd use a 2x4, spacers and work out some sort of hand rail, possibly a 1 inch diameter dowel. I trust you're using kiln dried wood. Will this be used or store outdoors?
I found the attached drawing of a ships ladder, which is metric, but might help you plan. I think that the side rails on firemens ladders aren't so much for holding on to as to keep hoses from falling off. Handrails also make sense if the ladder is at a steep angle.
I found the attached drawing of a ships ladder, which is metric, but might help you plan. I think that the side rails on firemens ladders aren't so much for holding on to as to keep hoses from falling off. Handrails also make sense if the ladder is at a steep angle.
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Bracing the saw so it stays put during the plunge is what would concern me most, so I'd lay a couple of 2x4s, one on each side of the workpiece, then a cross piece with a few screws in place across the workpiece to brace the saw against. You could always add some vertical blocks to those outrigger pieces to guide the base of the saw down as you plunge. That is a heavy saw and I could not trust myself to use it for that job safely. If the base is loose, it is still going to stay lined up so a jig with tall sides would be a good choice too. I'd sure want that workpiece clamped down firmly.
Here's a little top view drawing. The jig can slide down the workpiece, or you can make it longer, or clamp it to the edge of something.
Here's a little top view drawing. The jig can slide down the workpiece, or you can make it longer, or clamp it to the edge of something.
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Thank you all. Some good ideas. My stringers are 2x8s so it should be sturdy enough, even with the hand holds. And, yes, it will be heavy. It will be transported once and installed with lag screws. No moving this one around. I may assemble it here in my shop, disassemble it enough for transport and reassemble it on site.
I have completed the jig for aligning and guiding the saw during the plunge and the push forward. I think it is close to what DRTom suggested. I had to modify it from what I designed and built last Fall, based on fitting to the situation and correcting for some errors. I will try Stick's idea of plunging with the shoe flat on the workpiece. The jig will be screwed to the workpiece to avoid any problems with clamping.
When I took my current blade off for sharpening, I found it is a 40T. I dug out my meager collection of blades and found a new 24T ripping blade, so I'll use that. I think it is not a particularly high quality blade, so I don't know if it will last through this project. The local hardware store had a few Diablo blades, but non 24T.
Got the test piece bored for the end clearance holes. It is 1 3/8" dia. and my finish size wants to be 1 1/2", which will be done with the router/jig. It all looks good, setting the saw on it and checking alignment of the blade relative to my drawn outline. It is set up to leave 1/8" clearance between the saw blade and the finish dimension.
It was really tempting to give it a go tonight, after finishing the jig. But I am exhausted. I shoveled a bunch of snow for my daughter today and I am beat. So decided it would be prudent to wait until tomorrow morning, when I am fresh. Time to kick back and take it easy for a few hours, maybe have some ice cream.
Rick
I have completed the jig for aligning and guiding the saw during the plunge and the push forward. I think it is close to what DRTom suggested. I had to modify it from what I designed and built last Fall, based on fitting to the situation and correcting for some errors. I will try Stick's idea of plunging with the shoe flat on the workpiece. The jig will be screwed to the workpiece to avoid any problems with clamping.
When I took my current blade off for sharpening, I found it is a 40T. I dug out my meager collection of blades and found a new 24T ripping blade, so I'll use that. I think it is not a particularly high quality blade, so I don't know if it will last through this project. The local hardware store had a few Diablo blades, but non 24T.
Got the test piece bored for the end clearance holes. It is 1 3/8" dia. and my finish size wants to be 1 1/2", which will be done with the router/jig. It all looks good, setting the saw on it and checking alignment of the blade relative to my drawn outline. It is set up to leave 1/8" clearance between the saw blade and the finish dimension.
It was really tempting to give it a go tonight, after finishing the jig. But I am exhausted. I shoveled a bunch of snow for my daughter today and I am beat. So decided it would be prudent to wait until tomorrow morning, when I am fresh. Time to kick back and take it easy for a few hours, maybe have some ice cream.
Rick
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