[BigJimAK]

I've been working on my RT cabinet for several months now and needed to cut a 6" hole in the side of some 3/4" maple veneer plywood to connect my DC hose.

The Jasper 400 replaces the router base plate and cuts 1" to 7" in diameter in 1/16" increments. It comes pre-drilled for many routers (compatibility guide attached) and a centering jig. All told, it was installed in a couple of minutes.

It pivots on a 1/16" steel pin (provided), so usage simply entailed tacking a scap piece across the back to retain the cutout, drilling the center hole, inserting the pin and placing the jig hole corresponding to the diameter you want to cut and pivoting the router. In my case I cut the hole on a vertically mounted panel. I've attached a few pictures of the jig mounted on my Craftsman 17543 plunger, the piece cut out and the finished hole.

As you can see, the resulting cuts was very smooth. It is sized for use with a 1/4" bit, in order to permit 1" diameter holes. At $20 on Amazon for a jig with 97 precision-cut holes (1" to 7" by 16ths), its tough to justify making your own, IMNSHO.

Great buy!

 

[levon]

hi Jim,

that is a nice jig and nice job on cutting the hole.

one of my first real jigs was to make a circle cutting jig. it was very simple and easy to make. it also was very economical, in that it didnt cost me anything,

also what i do like about my jig is that it uses a guide bushing and you dont need to mount it to the router.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/show-n-tell/20666d1235913893-birdhouse-stand-100_0604.jpg

 

[BigJimAK]

Free is sure good, Levon!

After I first heard about your jig, I called Jasper to ask about the through-hole size in some of their larger circle cutters, as I was hoping that theres might be able to work with a guide bushing. Unfortunately, there's are supposedly 1-3/4" diameter. :-(

 

[levon]

hi Jim,

it wasnt my jig, i got the knowhow from my friend BobJ. but it was easy to build and worked great!

ive heard lots of good things about the jasper jig. im just a old cheapie!

 

[TwoSkies57]

loooooooooooking good!!!

You are such a tease!!!!!! :yes4:

 

[levon]

You are such a tease!!!!!!

huh??????

 

[TwoSkies57]

That was for BigJim Levon......

edit... for him letting out just a few pics of his table...

 

[jw2170]

Yes, Jim

That is the one I have (cost me more that $20 though)

Works great with the 3612C...

James

 

[bobj3]

Hi Jim

Here's a shot of the shop made Jasper jig that can take on the brass guide,I also have a plastic one (fac.made) that can take on the 1 1/2" guide,it's a easy rework to take on the brass guides best of all you don't need to screw the jig the router base plate just drop the router in place and cut the cir.out..

========

Free is sure good, Levon!

After I first heard about your jig, I called Jasper to ask about the through-hole size in some of their larger circle cutters, as I was hoping that theres might be able to work with a guide bushing. Unfortunately, there's are supposedly 1-3/4" diameter. :-(

 

[BigJimAK]

Hi BJ...

You sold me on the 1-1/2" guides some time ago, buddy... and I'm all *over* wanting to use them with a circle jig, for larger diameters. How did you modify the fac jig for 1-1/2-ers? Did you mount a piece of plexi under the guide and them re-drill it with forestner bits, were you able to find one with 1-1/2 or smaller hole or did you turn a larger OD guide on your lathe? The first two I could do but I don't have access to a lathe, dang it!

The 400, being round and of reasonable size could be a permanent attachment on a router unless you wanted to use guides with it but dedicating a router plunge base to the larger circle jigs would be a awkward PITA or lead to an under-utilized router. Well, unless I had a collection of routers like yours! <g>

 

[allthunbs]

Free is sure good, Levon!

After I first heard about your jig, I called Jasper to ask about the through-hole size in some of their larger circle cutters, as I was hoping that theres might be able to work with a guide bushing. Unfortunately, there's are supposedly 1-3/4" diameter. :-(

Hi Jim:

If you want to just drop in the router, get the OakPark 1 1/2" guide. The jig is set for 1 3/4" shoulders and 1 1/2" through hole.

 

[bobj3]

Hi Jim

The model number 200 comes with a 1/4" hole for a 1/4" router bit it's a easy job to open it up to take on the brass guides ( 1 3/16 or the 1 1/2" ) using the 1 1/2" guide will take out one or two of the pin holes but that's not a bit deal, most don't use it for 2" holes..anyway..

" permanent attachment" = that's the No No, the Jasper plates are 1/4" thick and that's the error with them. the screws will snap out the mounting holes very easy, if I recall it's only 1/16" thick at that point..but by using the brass guide way you will have it a very long time.

========

Hi BJ...

You sold me on the 1-1/2" guides some time ago, buddy... and I'm all *over* wanting to use them with a circle jig, for larger diameters. How did you modify the fac jig for 1-1/2-ers? Did you mount a piece of plexi under the guide and them re-drill it with forestner bits, were you able to find one with 1-1/2 or smaller hole or did you turn a larger OD guide on your lathe? The first two I could do but I don't have access to a lathe, dang it!

The 400, being round and of reasonable size could be a permanent attachment on a router unless you wanted to use guides with it but dedicating a router plunge base to the larger circle jigs would be a awkward PITA or lead to an under-utilized router. Well, unless I had a collection of routers like yours! <g>

 

[BigJimAK]

Hi Jim:

If you want to just drop in the router, get the OakPark 1 1/2" guide. The jig is set for 1 3/4" shoulders and 1 1/2" through hole.

That's the issue, Ron... the large guides have a 1-3/8ID x 1-1/2OD and the 1-3/4 is for the flange OD, which rests against the base plate, not the jig.

 

[BigJimAK]

BJ... I'd envisioned the bit / collet went through the large hole in the template and it appears from the picture to be much larger than 1/4".. even larger than 1-1/2". Which hole do you ream that leaves you with a 1-1/2" through hole, or is the large hole smaller than it appears? I can't get my hands on one local, so can't measure.

Jim

Hi Jim

The model number 200 comes with a 1/4" hole for a 1/4" router bit it's a easy job to open it up to take on the brass guides ( 1 3/16 or the 1 1/2" ) using the 1 1/2" guide will take out one or two of the pin holes but that's not a bit deal, most don't use it for 2" holes..anyway..

" permanent attachment" = that's the No No, the Jasper plates are 1/4" thick and that's the error with them. the screws will snap out the mounting holes very easy, if I recall it's only 1/16" thick at that point..but by using the brass guide way you will have it a very long time.

========

 

[bobj3]

Hi Jim

They say a picture is worth a 1000 words how about 3000 words..

========

 

[allthunbs]

That's the issue, Ron... the large guides have a 1-3/8ID x 1-1/2OD and the 1-3/4 is for the flange OD, which rests against the base plate, not the jig.

Oops! Sorry. The closest alternative would be Harry's 40mm guide for the Makitas.

 

[Soapdish]

Where does all the saw dust go? Won't it get stuck in the "groove"?

 

[bobj3]

Hi Jake

Yes, it gets stuck in the "groove" so to say but that's the best way, it will help hold the rings parts in place, once your done the dust just comes out very easy.

=======

Where does all the saw dust go? Won't it get stuck in the "groove"?

 

[BigJimAK]

Jake... I was cutting through a 3/4" piece of plywood with a 1/4" bit, so I made a total of 4 cuts. The first 3 were about 1/4" deep, leaving a smidgeon for a final cut. As soft as plywood is, I could probably have done it in less but I went with the old rule of "cut no deeper than the diameter of the bit (or the shank if its smaller)" and saved the smidgeon for last to avoid tear-out. Of course in my case I made the cut after the panel was mounted and most of the cabinet was installed, so I was extra careful. The last thing I wanted to do was to have to disassemble the cabinet and replace a 32"x48" piece of maple veneer plywood due to an "oops" while making my first cut with the jig.

 

[Soapdish]

Wouldn't heat build up be a concern while cutting the next pass? Or would it be a good idea to remove the sawdust from the groove before the next pass?