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Good point about using the wax to make cutting easier BJ. Little tricks like that are what the forums are about.
 

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Bobj3
I Googled and found the pool table M&T video I don't recall his explanation for knowing when to stop the rising bit.

You said you had the PDF? It has all the part names, etc? I see applications beyond mortising where absolute, (nit picky) height isn't required.
If it could be digitized and program stops added that puppy would be rich! There's great potential in that device.

Regarding the hole saw, in my case, 99% of the holes I ever cut with them were for rough framing houses, and occasionally sofit & dryer vents and plumbing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
HI Ghidrah

Here's my copy of John's power router lift :)

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Motorized-Router-Lift.aspx
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Motorized-Router-Lift.aspx

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Loose-Tenon-Joinery.aspx

I was out in the shop and I said I think I will make one, see below,it's like John's but I didn't put in a remote button I can just put my hand under the router table top and hit the button so it can go up or down very easy.
It works great and I was amazed how well it did work :) it took about 2 hours to make it and pop in the router table :)

Plus I can pull the nut/screw driver out if I need to use it quick and easy, you will also see the hand crank in the top plate so can still use it to get that fine adjustment that I need from time to time...

PDF it's a complete copy of John's BUT it's almost 6mb in size so I can't up load it to the forum...to big :(



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Bobj3
I Googled and found the pool table M&T video I don't recall his explanation for knowing when to stop the rising bit.

You said you had the PDF? It has all the part names, etc? I see applications beyond mortising where absolute, (nit picky) height isn't required.
If it could be digitized and program stops added that puppy would be rich! There's great potential in that device.

Regarding the hole saw, in my case, 99% of the holes I ever cut with them were for rough framing houses, and occasionally sofit & dryer vents and plumbing.
 

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It looks like you use the same motor as in the video, Is that one of the new Black&Deckers. Cordless?

I was going to ask if the manual crank was still viable.
Does the router become single use once you have it rigged for the lift or can it break down fast for portable use? It looks like you have the base secured to a common plate?

I refit my cabinet late last fall for the benchdog lift and made a new table top, so I have a nice old table top that I could make a box for and use as a test rig. I don't suppose I could talk you into an email with the PDF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Hi Ghidrah

It's a Snap-On Screw/nut driver :) cordless ..it will drive in a 3 1/2" deck screw :)
Once the router has the springs removed that's it,it's for the router table only, but I do have other routers for the hand plunge jobs..


Screwdriver, Cordless, 7.2V
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=19915&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=19915&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://www.routertechnologies.com/routerraizer.htm
http://www.routertechnologies.com/hitachim12v.htm


PDF file ,you bet send me your email address in a PM


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Hi Nick

Yep,,,the last one I did was 18meg and it took alot work to get it to go ..

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It looks like you use the same motor as in the video, Is that one of the new Black&Deckers. Cordless?

I was going to ask if the manual crank was still viable.
Does the router become single use once you have it rigged for the lift or can it break down fast for portable use? It looks like you have the base secured to a common plate?

I refit my cabinet late last fall for the benchdog lift and made a new table top, so I have a nice old table top that I could make a box for and use as a test rig. I don't suppose I could talk you into an email with the PDF?
 

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Thanks Bobj3 I believe I sent the PM. The black tube on Mr. Nixon's rig looks something like the adjustable lift knob tube for the PC. I have 2 of them
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
HI Ghidrah

Got your PM, sent the zip (PDF) file via.email :)

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Thanks Bobj3 I believe I sent the PM. The black tube on Mr. Nixon's rig looks something like the adjustable lift knob tube for the PC. I have 2 of them
 

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So the drill clutch is set low to slip when the drill butts the router stop.
This slows the initial set-up but works well for duplications, the more the merrier eh!
I haven't read yet, the pics are so pretty, the black material 1X stock and a stop?
Are the 2 knobs on the straight arm fixing the the motor to the router case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
HI Ghidrah

No clutch in the Snap-On ,it just stops at the bottom or top of the stroke,the router is about about 15lbs.so it needs all the power it can put out from the drill motor, this would be true also when it's lifting the bit into the stock..as well.. :)

The drill motor is held in place with one bolt( Allen cap screw ) where the handle was at one time..it has a notch for support right below the handle spot..

The drill motor must float so to speak in the slot at the far end of the MDF stock...it needs to move up and down...(float)
I drilled and tap a hole for a 10-32 x 1/4" , set screw on the round ring to keep the drill from dropping off the rod...( pulling away ) it just hangs in the slot, in that way I can unsnap the rod from the router and use the screw driver when it's not needed in the router.. :) takes about 2 sec. to pop it out.. :)


If you want to see more pictures how it's made just ask and I will pull it down and take some.. :)

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So the drill clutch is set low to slip when the drill butts the router stop.
This slows the initial set-up but works well for duplications, the more the merrier eh!
I haven't read yet, the pics are so pretty, the black material 1X stock and a stop?
Are the 2 knobs on the straight arm fixing the the motor to the router case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Hey Ghidrah

Did you take a peek at John's circle jig for the router table, it was OK but he could not use it for the small circles (10" or smaller ) so I said must be a way to do that on the router table, that any one can make very easy,, so to say I will make one that can do 1 1/2" to 24"~ ,if you want to take a peek at it just drop me a note and I will post a snapshot or two how to make a circle jig for the router table :)

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
HI NIck

Ok here it is .. it's a real KISS (keep-it-simple-s**** ) jig..I don't know why I didn't think of it b/4..:) I use the same type on the band saw :)
It's base on the brass guide on one end of the jig, I had the holes in the table for the OP box joint jigs so I used them to hold it in place..the bit comes up and cuts the circle dead on,,I used a small part from one other tee tracks I had for the pivot block and a set screw to lock it in place,under the set screw you will see some metal banding to keep the set screw from digging into the jig..

Just a note :)
You don't need the power lift to use this jig,,it's nice but not a must have item.:)
Just put your hand under the router table and turn the black knob and lift the bit up by a 1/4" or so but keep one one hand on the stock then just turn the stock one complete turn then do it one more time until you have it cut out, you will be amaze how easy it is to use this jig and make nice clean circles :) :)


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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
HI Jim

You ask how to make rings,,with the jig,, below you will see a small drawing..this way the rings will say in place until you get all of them cut out...you must take care and not route the mdf/plywood stock, the pin nails are the best to use they are 23 gage very small and you can pull them out very easy and it's very hard to see the small nail holes once you pull them out..

Use a compass to lay out the nail pattern,it's not a big deal if you hit one of the nails because they are very small...the bit will take it right off..about the size of a desk staple...

Just a note I would not trust double sided carpet tape for this type of job it's likes to give just a little bit and if it moves you will see a nick in the rings..

But you can always just move the center pin in and cut a new ring out...all the way down to 2" :)
One more small note, you may want to fix your vac,pickup tube to the router most of the dust will go down the brass guide right down on the router...you can all also just wire tie your vac.hose right next to the router under the table it should suck up most of the chips..:)

hope this helps, how about a snapshot or two when you do it or after :)

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Bobj3, I did see it, you're right it's nice but limited, my guess is he doesn't require smaller circles much. I think the gauge makes sense for dupes as long as one uses the same diam. straight bit.

My little jury rigged thingy, (previous pic link) allows me to do them down to about the same as yours, although I use some modified corner bead with glued on sandpaper to grab and roll the circle on the pivot. When ever I need circles smaller I use a piece of dowel, (use lots when setting formica).

Bobj3 you are the jig man, anyone else here think he should be renamed "Mr. JIGS"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Hi Guys

Many,many of the routers come with a edge guide and in that guide you will see a pin/hole just for making circles , so to say you don't need to make one ,you have one in the case, if you want to use the plunge router to get the job done.. :)
Note,,if you don't have a hole you can drill a quick hole and you have it done in less than 1 min.

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hello bobj,

the red top router combo looks very nice! the edge guide that comes with it will cut circles?
 

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hello bobj,

i remember you talking about shortening template guides. i dont have the stand for my 4 1/2 inch grinder. should or could i just use a hacksaw and then sand or grind it smooth and level . my 3/4 inch was a little too long for the circle jig i made.
 
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