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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
In my research if you are like me not in business you can buy a clone saw from Wen for $116 plus tax that cuts accurately . The clones can use Festool, Makita , and Powertech track $140 cut 8 ft. rip. I built a clone mft 3 table with Axminister kit using pythgruse therium for 3 4 5 right triangle. I was using eureka zone circular adapter and there track. They closed there company in December that was what lead me on this journey. I wanted a saw that had dust collection found the wen which had good results for clones lowest price. My set up for cross cutting had tape measure to cut to length. The new set up was off by 3/4 because track is 3/4 wider than eureka zone set up. Right now just add 3/4 to measurement dead on. This by far exceeds my expectation because reading dead on in comparison. I have not tested the dust collection because I have started an upgrade to my dust collection. Not up and running yet. Weather has not cooperated .
 

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I'm growing fond of WEN tools. Good value, obviously standard Chinese tools relabeled, but they have exactly the casting marks of other brands. Worth checking out, and I appreciate it when people who buy them, post reviews.
 

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There was a recent thread where the OP stated that Eureka Zone may be starting up again, haven't seen any follow up posts though. Did you look at the dust port the EZ offered for the saw? - it required adding a hole to the front end of the guard and drilling/tapping a couple of holes for attachment screws. I did the modification to my saw and thought that it worked pretty well - at least there was a noticeable difference in the amount of sawdust thrown out when the saw was used with and without the hose hooked up. They also sold a clear plastic shield that worked so-so, I think the idea was good, it just needed a little tweaking. There's still a fair amount of sawdust "leakage" but I think the majority of it is coming from below the sheet being cut - and I think that this is typical of most saws as I get that from my Makita. There's very little sawdust apparent when I cut on the MFT, so think, from what I read, is that the answer, for both types, is to cut with the panel on top of a sheet of foam.
 

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The access hole is where my Triton track saw leaks as well. I wouldn't use duct tape, however. I think this is a job for aluminum tape holding down a small piece of thin plastic. Duct tape always leaves residue.
 

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I just bought a Grizzly track saw and am unable to use my vac for dust collection, as their 1 1/2" exhaust port points down onto the wood, only 4" above the wood. My hose doesn't bend that much. I guess I'll need to find some kind of ell fitting or something. Not a good design... What a mess!
 

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What are general thoughts on DIY tracks built for whatever saw you own? I've seen a number of examples on YouTube look pretty sound and I'm considering that path for near future anyway.
 

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What are general thoughts on DIY tracks built for whatever saw you own? I've seen a number of examples on YouTube look pretty sound and I'm considering that path for near future anyway.
I used my 18v DeWalt circ saw for years with an aluminum, 2 inch aluminum L bar. Even with a very good blade, I always got a little tear out, and didn't much like working from the back side. It was better than wrestling full sheets on my table saw, but the track saw is a whole different critter. Making the scoring cut and the exact edge of the track eliminated all tearout and I can work face up (less confusing).

Of course, you could do all that with a shop made saw by making a very shallow scoring cut first, and by cutting the edge off with the saw. The only caution is that having a shop made guide does not lock the saw on the cut path, a spasm or lost concentration can have you drift off the line. And the straightness of the path depends a lot on how straight the guide piece is.

The thing I don't like about the track saw I have is that it seems to have marginal power compared to an ordinary circ saw. The dust collection on a track saw, however is very nice, but to make it work you have to drag both a power cord and a dust collection tube behind you. I do all my track sawing in my garage, so I could probably hand both tubing and power overhead with a light spring to keep it up and out of the way.

I'd bet that most of the off brand track saws are made by the same no-name manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The wen gives you the elbow. It has anti kick back and has the anti tipping lock for Makita track however no rival knife. I'll try and get a picture of my set up with dust collector. I'll try get metallic tape for covering the access hole. The anti tipping lock keeps the track saw perfectly flat to the track.
 

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Gary, that's a nice setup. I use a foam sheet underneath but it took me awhile to work out how deep the cuts were, so I chopped the sheet up pretty badly, but the pieces work just fine.

I lay a quarter inch thick ply underneath across a couple of saw horses, the foam on top of that. But I think the stiffeners you have would make it work a little better without sagging on the ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My setup will be better when the roll arounds are finished. With drawers and doors that hold my track saw, drills, drill bits, tape measures, squares, and wrenches.
 

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What are general thoughts on DIY tracks built for whatever saw you own? I've seen a number of examples on YouTube look pretty sound and I'm considering that path for near future anyway.
I'd make one. That way I would get what I want, not what someone else thinks I want, and I wouldn't feel bad about any changes I wanted to make.
 
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Thanks @JOAT - I've been suing a straight edge cut from a piece of 3/4 BB plywood and clamping it down as a guide and that's worked pretty well so far. Here's a
to a video for a pretty nice one. I like the "guide holes" in it. Looks pretty easy and effective, but I'll know after I make it and use it :)
 
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