CNC - Cutting thick Plexiglas
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Nice work David. I like how you figured out how to secure it . I was thinking not to use the dust shoe from the start , as the particles don't really get airborne .
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491 Posts
Nice video David! Once you get into cutting speaker doo-dads
there usually is more to come. Especially when they start adding LEDs to them
or want boxes made. Some decent $$$ to be made.
I cheat with the dust boot though. I've assigned a 3" dia "ghost" bit @ 0 rpm
to do the cleanup.
Tool "loaded" so it thinks and fills the entire 'workpiece' area. Meanwhile it's just vacuuming
the job. Nice and clean when done. Vaccing can get tiresome and air chucks make a bigger mess.
Brown didnt bond in certain areas and well... it was like being sand blasted. The cut was good but the duration
was sending tiny sharp particles everywheres. Couldnt use the dust boot because it would snag on the loose parts.
Making push thru letters ~ 1/8" Aluminum Bkgd w/ 3/4" (Brown/Clear) coming thru illumed by LEDs.
Maybe after a few jobs you polish the edges on the CNC with the:
75-130 - 3/8" PCD Single Edge Straight Flute Polishing Tool for Acrylics
there usually is more to come. Especially when they start adding LEDs to them
or want boxes made. Some decent $$$ to be made.
I cheat with the dust boot though. I've assigned a 3" dia "ghost" bit @ 0 rpm
to do the cleanup.
Tool "loaded" so it thinks and fills the entire 'workpiece' area. Meanwhile it's just vacuuming
the job. Nice and clean when done. Vaccing can get tiresome and air chucks make a bigger mess.
Just yesterday did a double layer acrylic ( 1/4" Brown acrylic over 1/2" Clear - Resin Bonded both ) Some of the
Brown didnt bond in certain areas and well... it was like being sand blasted. The cut was good but the duration
was sending tiny sharp particles everywheres. Couldnt use the dust boot because it would snag on the loose parts.
Making push thru letters ~ 1/8" Aluminum Bkgd w/ 3/4" (Brown/Clear) coming thru illumed by LEDs.
Maybe after a few jobs you polish the edges on the CNC with the:
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377 Posts
David,
One thing I did on my dust shoe is add a couple of small pins to keep the brush portion from sliding around. Magnets are great in tension, but they can slide from side to side. A couple of short pins made from 1/8 brass rod from the hardware store keeps mine from sliding. The mating holes on the brush portion of the shoe has countersunk holes for earlier alignment.
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=286258&thumb=1
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=286266&thumb=1
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=286250&thumb=1
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=286242&thumb=1
For your shoe, where you added the vinyl, try cutting it into strips and slightly overlap them. You will still get the advantage of reducing airflow through the widely spaced bristles, but with the advantage of more flexibility to flow over obstructions.
One thing I did on my dust shoe is add a couple of small pins to keep the brush portion from sliding around. Magnets are great in tension, but they can slide from side to side. A couple of short pins made from 1/8 brass rod from the hardware store keeps mine from sliding. The mating holes on the brush portion of the shoe has countersunk holes for earlier alignment.
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=286258&thumb=1
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=286266&thumb=1
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=286250&thumb=1
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=286242&thumb=1
For your shoe, where you added the vinyl, try cutting it into strips and slightly overlap them. You will still get the advantage of reducing airflow through the widely spaced bristles, but with the advantage of more flexibility to flow over obstructions.
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