I typically take my engraving needs to a local trophy shop. Decided it was time to try engraving myself on the CNC. The job was text on aluminum. I used Ucancam software to generate the gcode. The tool was a 1.0mm tapered ball nose bit. I took several practice runs to get the correct settings.
The feed speed was dialed down. The spindle rpm was 15k. My only V-bit chipped in a practice run. So I switched to a tapered ball. I still have much to learn on the engraving side.
Hello, thanks for the greeting. Does anyone know if a CNC router can engrave the aluminum business card blanks, or are they more intended for laser engraving? I saw some that are 0.8 mm thick and it seems possible to engrave 0.5 mm deep and be ok, but then clamping it may be a challenge...
I sometimes take thin material to be engraved/routed, apply Application Tape (for vinyl graphics) to the backside and maybe on a piece of PVC (Sintra) scrap. Then Spray 77 glue them together to form a rigid piece.
If the 'scrap' piece is bigger you can clamp or screw down and do your thing.
Scraps can also be wood too, but working with signs we get alot of pvc. It's easier to bend
to get the finished piece off. Of course you'd have to be careful while separating.
Remember, I said bend the PVC, not the alum.
Since you're doing blanks, you could always make jigs like so esp for registration. Been there done that.
Just have to get creative sometimes.
Hi, sorry for the delay in my response, so much going on and had to do some experimenting. First, I am no expert by any means in cutting aluminum. I have drilled and tapped a bunch of holes and regular cutting oil seems to work as well as the defrost spray in most cases but this comparison is only on drilling/tapping holes and no other type of machining. I still use cutting oil on my metal cutting band saw with everything, don't care about the mess. I like the defrost spray, composed of methanol and ethylene glycol because it leaves no oily mess, evaporates away cleanly leaving only the chips and the evaporative cooling effect keeps the bit cool. The aerosol can puts out too much for milling as it is CO2 powered and meant to cover the windshield. I found a squirt version 32 oz of the same stuff that you can apply more effectively. I just made a 40mm x 3 mm deep pocket in aluminum and used the Prestone stuff and it worked great. I just used a regular old carbide 2 flute 1/4" mortise bit just to see what would happen.
Cncest....very nice work and is very related to my following questions. I want to try CNC engraving 10" diam. brass clock dials. I was thinking of using 0.75 mm ball nose milling bits, and from your experience, it looks like they will work well.
Does anyone on this forum have experience cnc engraving brass ? I thought 360 alloy brass was referred to as engraving brass but I can not find anyone to supply 360. 260 is easily found. Does anyone have experience using 260 brass ? Does anyone know of a supplier of 360 brass !2' X 12" X .03" ?
I'm looking forward to any /all comments and suggestions about cnc ing brass. The de-icer coolant idea was very interesting !
I thought 360 alloy brass was referred to as engraving brass but I can not find anyone to supply 360. 260 is easily found. Does anyone have experience using 260 brass ? Does anyone know of a supplier of 360 brass !2' X 12" X .03" ?
Hey 47chevy... you can try Muntz 280 - at the same token we basically engrave in ⅛" ~ ¼" material, so I can't say for thin stuff.
Sounds cool for what you'd like to do.
......thanks for the suggestion re: Muntz 280. The spec sheet ssys its harder than regular brass. I'm looking for SOFTER (higher lead content) brass to reduce stress on the bits.
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