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For clean cuts in plywood a downcut spiral bit, 1/4"d or 3/16"d. In hardwoods upcut spiral bits usually do fine. For 3D carving the finish passes you'll need ball end bits. The smaller the bit then the finer the finish, but also the longer the job will take. If you've got a heavy duty machine rather than a hobby machine then 1/2" and 3/8" diameter bits can also be handy rough cuts and large pockets.
 

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I generally buy bits as I need them. Turn around is usually only 2 days max where I live. Those bits I use regularly I try to keep 3 of on hand. When one seems dull or chipped or broken I order another, but obviously have a spare I can use while waiting. The third is a spare of the spare, and is there just for peace of mind when what I'm doing has a deadline and I can't afford 2 days of downtime. I don't often break a bit. I've only broken tiny 1/16" end mills in use. Other sizes get broke trying to cut through steel clamps or plow into the bed, etc. Yes, you could break one feeding too fast through hardwood taking too much off in a pass. The software I use defaults to 1/2 the bit diameter per pass, and 40% stepover when clearing an area. Both these can be overridden for any cut. I can also dynamically slow down feed speed as a job runs If it sounds too aggressive.

Bits I use most are 1/4" and 3/16" spiral end mills, both upcut and downcut. I'm most often cutting joinery for student furniture designs though. My machine is a Probotix Meteor and not too heavy duty. I like the 3/16" bits over the 1/4" bits wherever they'll do the job. I use 1/4" bits when I need extra depth. I keep 1/8" and 1/16", as well as 5/16", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" end mills too, but only use them for pocketing or rough cuts when their size best matches what needs to be cut. I keep 1/4", 3/16", 1/8" ball nose bits, and a tapered ball end bit for deeper 3D cuts. For simple slopes I use the larger ball end. For fine contours/detail I'll use smaller bits.
 
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