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Coffee Table - "Alice Eagles"

1.9K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  bosox  
#1 ·
Hi all,

here are the photos of my latest coffee table that I have called "Alice Eagles". The slab reminded me of the desert sun, which then reminded me of some eagles which circled us while we were at Alice Springs for our wedding anniversary last year. So I cut two eagle silhouettes out of Queen Ebony, and then found some Spotted Gum that looked a bit like Heavitree Gap where we saw the eagles, and this is the result.

Details:
Slab - Camphor Laurel
Eagles - Queen Ebony
Mountains - Spotted Gum
Legs - Pine (Radiata Pine - this is the standard framing timber here. Rated at F12 so I don't think the legs will break.)
Finish - 5 coats of Cabothane thinned 50/50 and air brushed

Photos
1. Slab with excavations for the inlays.
2. Mortises cut for the legs and test fitting.
3. Fitting of inlays
4. Final scraping/sanding of tip with inlays before varnishing
5 - 9 The finished product from various angles.

I just love how the grain changes depending on the angle. I only have one piece of Camphor Laurel left, but I might put that one aside for a while. It is relatively plain compared to the other 2 recent pieces so I will have to think more about how to present it.

I think my next job will be a puzzle table for pre-schoolers.

Darryl
 

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#5 ·
Dusten,

With the bark I am very careful during construction, and when varnishing I am paranoid about spraying into all the crevices as well as the general coat.

The inlays themselves were cut on a scroll saw. I put the pattern on paper, then glue the paper to the timber. After that I can cut it fairly easily on the scroll saw. The patterns came from the photos I took while the eagles were flying overhead. The photos weren't in focus, but there was enough to get a silhouette to cut the inlays. For the excavations, I put the inlay in its final position and trace around with pencil. Next I cut around the pencil line with a knife so that the timber is scored. Then I get the router out and make a rough cut round the edge about 2-3mm inside the line, and then take out the middle of the excavation.After that I come back to the edge and gently take off the remaining timber in about three passes. At the 2nd last pass, there is about 0.5mm left, and on the final pass I just gently ease the router along the edge until it starts feathering - that is the reason for scoring the outline with a knife. Fine detail and touchups I use a hand held rotary tool. Couldn't get in fine enough for the wing tip feathers with a router.

Hope this helps.
Darryl
 
#6 ·
Lot of nice work there. Good job.
 
#8 ·
I'm not 100% sure exactly what it means, but it is something like they used a 12 MPa force on it when testing. The end result is that you can use it for house studs, so I reckoned it would be strong enough for coffee table legs.

Maybe Harry might know the details.

Darryl