I am about to start a new project and I need some advice / opinions. I will be making a coffee table that will house a small (12 drawer) library index card cabinet with a patchwork / calico top composed of multiple types of wood. The “pieces” will be approx. 4” wide , varying lengths.
I haven’t figured out the framing yet and if my history repeats, I will have to work at keeping it from being over-designed. Unfortunately I don’t have a capable BS so most things will be in straight lines. I also haven’t figured out the attachment of the top to the frame – I have done some research here but I’ll never turn down a good idea. I’m assuming the top will have to be able float a little which is of some concern since I expect the unit to be on the heavier side and will most likely be occasionally moved using the top.
I have several concerns / questions:
I haven’t figured out the framing yet and if my history repeats, I will have to work at keeping it from being over-designed. Unfortunately I don’t have a capable BS so most things will be in straight lines. I also haven’t figured out the attachment of the top to the frame – I have done some research here but I’ll never turn down a good idea. I’m assuming the top will have to be able float a little which is of some concern since I expect the unit to be on the heavier side and will most likely be occasionally moved using the top.
I have several concerns / questions:
- I have the following wood available for use. Is there any I should leave out and if so, why? (Black walnut, Cherry, Ebony, Rosewood, Maple, Zebrawood, Canary wood, Paduk, Leopardwood, Purpleheart). The frame will be made from Ash.
- Is there one finishing approach that would be best to bring out the individual characters … Tung oil? BLO? Or should I be thinking about finishing each type of wood / piece pre-assembly to accommodate specific needs?
- My primary concern is in building the top … Is the 4” row narrow enough to be able to ignore expansion differences between species in the same “row”? If so, I can construct it rigid (glue, splines, dowels, etc.). Or should I be considering an unglued Tongue & Groove approach between rows? If a T&G approach is needed, does my PC890 or DW618 have enough power to run that type of router bit set.
- RE: Bread board end caps, how do you “hide” the rest of the table outgrowing the width of the cap? Is the cap left longer than the table is wide?