[synthtony]

Hi,
I am trying to do a compound router profile for a picture frame. Per the attached image I have a 1"high by 3" wide piece of cedar that I am trying put the following cuts on:
1. 1/4" round-over on inside edges
2. 3/8"w x 3/8"d straight cut for inlay
3. 1/2" round-over to blend into
4. 1.25" cove
5. 1/3" round-over on outside edge of cove

I am approaching by doing the following:
1. Cut the 1/4" round-over on the inside edge
2. Cut the 3/8" straight cut for the inlay
3. Cut the 1.25" cove on the outside edge
4.Cut the 1/4" round-over on the outside edge where the 1.25" cove route terminates.
I am having trouble figuring out how to cut the 1/2" round-over cut into the wood at the top of the 1.25" cove because the cove is not deep enough to allow the guide bearing of the 1/2" bit to get to the edge.
Any thoughts on how I can achieve this?

 

[sunnybob]

If this is being done on a table,
align the shallow end with the fence and remove the bearing.
hot glue a wide supporting piece to the thick side to stop the piece falling down onto the bit.

 

[Stick486]

welcome to the forums N/A...

take the bearing off and edge guide the router to the left edge if you are free handing..
take the bearing off and use the fence on a router table as your guide..

 

[4DThinker]

You can use a roundover bit with a flat tip like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Magnate-1278-Plunge-Roundover-Router/dp/B0006ICVYO. I would make this cut BEFORE making the cove cut.

4D

 

[sreilly]

I think the idea of doing the roundover cust first is solid but try on a piece of scrap and see if that works. Again, are you freehand routing or using a table?

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

One of the issues with making picture frames is that as you cut material away you make the piece unstable to handle. One of the fixes for that is to use material that's about 1/4" wider on both sides and saw the extra off after. Another fix is to take your router and mount it sideways. I did this and had the fence and table combination so that I could pass the bit both above and below my work but you have to remember that feed direction will reverse from one to the other. This would allow you to sit the wide edge on the table and use a raised panel bit for the large concave. If you want to have a look at mine then go to the bottom of the panel that has my user name in it and click on my uploads link. Once there go to the last page and if it isn't on it it will be in the next one or two. It was one of the first things I posted when I joined the forum.

You can get roundover bits that don't have bearings. They are called ovolo bits. Most manufacturers make them. Here's one example. Some offer quite a few more sizes. https://www.infinitytools.com/routi...dge-making-router-bits/ovolo-router-bits-4752

 

[Jerry8888]

Not sure if this is helpful, but you can use a jig to cut coves on a table saw. Sorry, cannot post link yet, but just Google it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[synthtony]

Thanks everyone. I was a bit reluctant to try removing the bearing as I am new to routing and was not sure how to best guide it for a clean straight cut. I will give it a shot. Both prior and post cove cut.Thanks Stick486 et al.
And yes I am doing this on a table.

 

[Jim Champaigne]

Use the table saw instead of the router table.

Build two fences 3" apart and clamp them somewhat diagonal to the blade. Raise the blade about 1/8" on each pass until you get the profile you desire.
Using your fingers, count to ten before and after the project. (Got all your fingers?)

 

[ger21]

I don't think removing the bearing will work, as the boss that the bearing mounts to will still be in the way.
You need a plunge roundover as 4D mentioned.

 

[Stick486]

then go w/ a Ovolo bit...
https://www.freudtools.com/search?h=1