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To the member who posted using contact paper before carving a sign. Thanks a ton. Just cut 2 signs for the repair shop I own that had 3 inch letters. Painted the letters on both signs in 10 minutes, pulled the paper off and no bleeding. Last time I did these took me 45 minutes and had to sand out bleed lines. No sticky from paper. Will stain and seal on the am when paint is dry
 

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I don't remember who posted it either but it's always nice when someone gives thanks for advice given that works for them.
 

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Theo
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I'll just thank everyone. Contact paper is an excellent solution to a non-woodworking project I've been fussing with. Actually, what it is, I want to paint some lettering on various fabric items - like on the back of my vest. Not decided yet whether to go with WATER DOWSING - BY APPOINTMENT ONLY, or BEWARE OF GRUMPY OLD MAN.
>:)
 

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I know my posts about sandblast glass etching, not wood carving would have mentioned the use of contact paper. I used beige or light green. Not white because the brightness will wear on your eyes.

Good to hear your success with contact paper.
 

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Oliver (Prof. Henry)
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I just did a test with vinyl paper this morning to carve a piece with the cnc. I have to agree that it is a great technique and makes for quick finishing. I prepped my mdf board by sealing with shellac and then giving is a spray coat of metallic paint before applying the vinyl. After cutting, a quick spritz with some black primer finished the background.
 

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Don't know what the cost is but Signwarehouse.com has 50 yd by 15 inch rolls of sign mask for $62 plus $10 shipping.

Masking works great unless it's a textured surface or small text.
 
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I started glass etch about forty years ago using contact paper. In fact, went that route about four months ago for some entry doors for some people.

It's funny, I've talked to some remarkable artists who all but called me a liar for saying I use it. I tried to explain that I keep the pressure around 45 lbs, unless shading, when I drop to half that. They couldn't explain why I could do all but the heavy carving with it. Some people prefer not to learn, and assume today's technology always existed.

I keep about twenty or so rolls of various kinds of the stuff around for various uses [and the beige does work best for laying out lines].


I know my posts about sandblast glass etching, not wood carving would have mentioned the use of contact paper. I used beige or light green. Not white because the brightness will wear on your eyes.

Good to hear your success with contact paper.
 

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Theo
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I started glass etch about forty years ago using contact paper. In fact, went that route about four months ago for some entry doors for some people.

It's funny, I've talked to some remarkable artists who all but called me a liar for saying I use it.
All my life I have had people tell me I couldn't do something. Eventually I found out they couldn't do it, and since they considered themselves smarter than me, they figured if they couldn't do it, I couldn't do it. To make it funny, would do something, then when they said I couldn't do it, would show them I already had.
 

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It's funny, I've talked to some remarkable artists who all but called me a liar for saying I use it. I tried to explain that I keep the pressure around 45 lbs, unless shading, when I drop to half that. They couldn't explain why I could do all but the heavy carving with it.
LOL
Ask them to explain how the glass of payphone booths in windy locations get sandblasted.

See attached. Low pressure, yeah!
 

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Or house windows on the ocean beaches. For that matter, I drove through sand dunes on a highway some years back during a windy day and the effects of the sand on my windshield was obvious years after.


LOL
Ask them to explain how the glass of payphone booths in windy locations get sandblasted.

See attached. Low pressure, yeah!
 
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