If you use matched height door bit sets, then the Sommerfeld method of using a sarificial push block is far easier. If I use the sled with those (or any bit), I have to account for the base thickness. The Wpecker is nicely built, and includes space that should be adequate for a sacrificial backer, having to recalculate height is a loser. You could, of course use a piece the thickness of the sled's base and stack your bit setting block on top of that. But why? It means test cuts are a must.
I use the Sommerfeld easy set jig for their matched bit sets (The yellow one), but it is also available for the Freud matched bit set (red). These are great because they account for the exact thickness of the workpiece. Drop a half inch grommet into the collet and you can change from one bit to the next and not have to reset height at all. The Easy Set jigs are $30 each, the bit sets aren't cheap, although a little less for the Freud sets (last time I looked).
To do rail and style doors on the router, you have to have bits anyhow. So for me, the Woodpecker sled is not necessary. In fact, if you want mine, pm me and we'll strike a good deal. I'd rather see it used than sitting in a box in my shop.
Otherwise, Marc Sommerfeld has some excellent videos on YouTube that show his method. He is a retired cabinet maker who started a tool company, so his technique is great to learn from. He also goes very light on promotion of his tools and heavy on great methodology. He uses the same Triton router I have, so I've copied his way of working completely. I bought his video set and watch the one that applies before I do a project. Beats relying on memory (said the old guy).
I have three of their matched bit sets for rail and stile, Mission, Ogee and glass door. I really like using those bits. Heavy duty.