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Cordless vs corded

21816 Views 31 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  DesertRatTom
When it comes to a router. What are your thoughts on cordless vs corded routers??

Seems there are obvious pros and cons to both.

if you could only have one which would it be?
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I choose to have a corded router - DeWalt 625 - only because in my opinion as a DIYer it covered most possible needs, first being a worktop , sink cutout and groves in doors. BUT - I am looking at the DeWalt cordless 1/4" just for the occasional trimming, BUT can't justify the price at the moment.

NOTE - I'm just a DIYer, so occasional use
I can't really see any pros only cons. 99.999% of what I do is on a table hooked up to a vacuum. But I guess the biggest reason for having it corded is that the last thing I want, is to be doing the edge of a longboard and to have the router start slowing down because the battery is losing power.
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The router would be top heavy...
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If I could have only one, it would be corded. However, there are lots or reasons to own a cordless router, especially trim router size. Occasional job-site needs is one. Cordless trim routers are being embraced by sign carvers who make signs on-site at craft fairs, and don't want to have to deal with lugging around a generator.

With cordless tools now including everything from drills, to reciprocating saws, to miter saws, the cordless tool world is becoming more useful.
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As was said here - if I could only have one I would have corded... but that is only cause there are no powerful 1/2 routers that are cordless... yet...

As many here I have several routers including a cordless trimmer. Its great for what it is - cord hassle free tool that I can run around the shop with.

I suspect that if I were in the trades - eg a framing person or someone involved in door fitting etc. I would be more inclined towards cordless in general.

My bet is that someone will put out a bigger 1/2 cordless router soon... the battery tech is there

M
Only 1?
Corded.

That by no means says I prefer a corded router.

I can't see a 3.5 hp cordless router that I can stick in a table like my Milwaukee 5625-20.

However - for small compact trim routers, the size of the DeWalt 611PK - I'm not sure I'll ever use my DeWalt ever again now that I have a cordless Makita.

The extra power the brushless 18V motor brings to the table is a game changer. It's every bit of 1.5hp.

Not having a cord to get hung up and drag the router to the side in the middle of a cut is another nice touch.
Those using cordless probably don't use one enough to value the difference.

Why would you need 1.5 hp in a laminate router?
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With cordless tools now including everything from drills, to reciprocating saws, to miter saws, the cordless tool world is becoming more useful.
Useful = expensive

I don't believe in my lifetime tools powered by battery's will reach the quality of a tool powered by an ac corded tool. If they were I would be cordless assuming the longevity and cost of the battery(s) were within reason. Also a battery powered tool operates differently when fully charged compared to 50/75%.
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Also a battery powered tool operates differently when fully charged compared to 50/75%.
I have not noticed that with my cordless tools, ONLY a DIYer, but do have a cordless Grinder which uses a lot of power and batteries do not last, but it works pretty much full on until the batter stops completely, same with my Multitool and with all my other cordless tools, drills/driver and circular/jig saws and planner. Some are Brushless but a few are not.
Useful = expensive

I don't believe in my lifetime tools powered by battery's will reach the quality of a tool powered by an ac corded tool. If they were I would be cordless assuming the longevity and cost of the battery(s) were within reason. Also a battery powered tool operates differently when fully charged compared to 50/75%.
@Marco that is indeed a bold statement - considering how fast battery technology is advancing (driven mostly by electric vehicles and consumer electronics)

I can say from my point of view - cordless is ALREADY better! the performance of cordless tools when the battery is above 25% is on par with corded, while charging times are really really short nowadays... and of course - they dont have a cord.

Can you even imagine going back to a corded impact driver or combi drill????

All the cordless tools I have i am very happy with and the comfort of not having a cord, especially outdoors when working construction (I do some pergolas and deck work) is great.

All you need is a bucket full of batteries and at least two chargers (or a double headed one)

YMMV etc
M
There are still a lot of corded tools being used outside construction.

When battery operated nailers came out they weren't very good. I used Paslode.

Batteries are heavy. Small routers with a battery is heavy. Even amid size router with a battery is heavy. Drills today with large batteries are heavy. ..

I've used a cord in commercial for a long time. Doesn't bother me.

People don't like dragging a cord around. They make ot sound like there dragging a 10 guage cord around, a water hose or a large air line...

I worked in large buildings where a 100 ft was needed. Most here are working in a garage and 25 ft of cord is all that's needed. This is why cabinet and commercial shops set up rows of cabinets , go down one line move cord to the next.
The Makita can use the small 1.5 AH battery which adds very little weight to the tool. Not anywhere enough to cause unbalance & with today's LiIon batteries, they are both lighter and deliver far more power than the old NiCad. Admittedly = the 3.0 & 5.0 AH batteries are larger & do add weight to the top - the vast majority of the jobs I do with it don't require a lot of run time.

I don't have as much of a problem dragging a cord around on a job site as I do having a cord available to use! It seems like everyone needs or wants electricity on a site at the same time. A lot of the times the only power on a site is what a single Honda 2200 (with a single 20amp outlet) can supply.

Re: a 1.5 hp "trim router". The Makita compact is a 1/4" collet & can do anything physically larger routers can do with 1/4" bits. I love mine & wouldn't part with it.

I don't believe cordless is ready to replace corded for everything though - which is what I mentioned above.
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The Makita can use the small 1.5 AH battery which adds very little weight to the tool. Not anywhere enough to cause unbalance.
& with today's LiIon batteries, they are both lighter and deliver far more power than the old NiCad.
Admittedly = the 3.0 & 5.0 AH batteries are larger & do add weight to the top - the vast majority of the jobs I do with it don't require a lot of run time.

I don't have as much of a problem dragging a cord around on a job site as I do having a cord available to use!
It seems like everyone needs or wants electricity on a site at the same time. A lot of the times the only power on a site is what a single Honda 2200 (with a single 20amp outlet) can supply.

Re: a 1.5 hp "trim router". The Makita compact is a 1/4" collet & can do anything physically larger routers can do with 1/4" bits.
I love mine & wouldn't part with it.

I don't believe cordless is ready to replace corded for everything though - which is what I mentioned above.

Why would you be on jobsite with a cordless router using a gereator? I was an installer for numerous years installing residential and commercial 7 years at Regency Cabinets, 2 years Blystone cabinets and 7 years at Steve Rays commercial shop...

I did all the installing...

There are always Temps on those sites.
I did home renovations. A lot of times the power is cut off & work has to go on. Even with a bunch of 18V batteries, they do need charged every now and then,
I recently purchased battery-operated 16 and 18 ga brad nailers and felt like I had died and gone to heaven. It is very convenient when I want to use a few brad nails to hold a project together. It beats having to drag out the compressor, fire it up, and wait until it noisily reaches full pressure. I also no longer have to work around where the air hose wants to drag around the shop and project. They are also handy for doing a little trim work in house remodeling projects.

Would it be a solution for someone needing all-day nailing capabilities? Of course not. But for my use, it’s great to just pick up the nailer and be ready to go.
Which nailer did you get, i have been looking as a DIYer for a cheap solution , but A) expensive and B) some of the staple/nail versions left a Staple indent when nailing, I wanted for a few projects exactly like you - based in UK
I did home renovations. A lot of times the power is cut off & work has to go on.
Even with a bunch of 18V batteries, they do need charged every now and then,
I did rehabs in Independence , Mo. For Jodi Petterson . Many ex drug houses. First thing we did was establish power...

I'm still lost on why I would be doing router work...

Batteries have to be charged... We've run generators on house the city required an updated power service. After that power is a established...

On cabinet installs batteries were pretty nice. Over the years batteries got heavier... starting with old slimline Makita. When I ended my career it was with Makita. I have Milwaukee and DeWalt now, but if I upgrade it will be Makita. That being said you will not catch a cordless router in my shop.

I sold all my Paslodes as well..

I will add... I do find a cordless jigsaw useful...
Which nailer did you get, i have been looking as a DIYer for a cheap solution , but A) expensive and B) some of the staple/nail versions left a Staple indent when nailing, I wanted for a few projects exactly like you - based in UK
I bought the Ryobi nailers from around Christmas time from Home Depot when they were having deals, including extra batteries at about half price. Since I already had a Ryobi impact driver, I figured it was a no brainer.
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I'm still lost on why I would be doing router work..
There's plenty to route on a house rehab. Matching existing trim for instance.

I bought a Ryobi set of 1/4" router bits that I've been using a couple of dozen years now.
With it, I'm able to come close enough to most existing profiles it's hard to tell them apart from a distance.

Old 1950s/1960s Birch plywood panel/Pine rails and stiles cabinet doors all have a round over on them that needs to be done if/when a door is replaced. On most rehabs we do, we try to salvage what's already there & add on to it where needed. Building carcasses on site is a lot easier when you have a router onsite to make the shelf pin holes.

Anyhow - I find plenty of uses & if you don't, then more power to you.

I'll make sure I let Santa know not to bring you one for your stocking.
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